cast or forged stroker crank?

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35regal

35regal

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im building a 340 stroker, im looking at scat crank/rods, diamond pistons, custom ground cam, ported eddey heads, tunnel ram ,2-660s carbs. 6800 rpm red-line, is any one running a cast crank with 550-560-575 hp? i had my mind set on a cast crank, replies welcomed.
 
Many will say cast is ok but the more I looked in to it the more it seemed forged was the way to go.

Even if the cast crank does not break, it will flex and wear the bearings out.

I could had went with a stroker for my 340 but with cast parts. I decided to run the stock stroke and get a 10 inch converter for the 340.

To do a stroke motor right isn't cheap.
 
Eagle says thier cast 4" stroke crank is good to 500 hp. I think for your build you may want a forged crank.
 
By the way Manicic Racing was showing the Eagle forged cranks for $620 l was going to see if Summit Racing would match the price.

CNC Motorsports have good prices on a forged stroke kit too.
 
The Scat cast cranks can do that. I've got one making 530NA, and has a single plate NOS system that adds another 175hp. Even with a stick it's been racing 3 seasons now. The MP is a Scat product. I would not use the Eagle for anything over about 450.
 
Answer this question: What is the cost of a cast crank kit? A Forged crank kit? With the same everything else in the kit.

I will say this though I don't have a stroker, if it was my money I believe I would wait a little lomger, save up and go FORGED! You get what you pay for in the performance parts industry.
 
Any crank should be measured carefully, same with rods cycled, etc. In terms of the best budget crank the Callies Dragonslayer is still the only crank I've ever used that was perfect out of the box. The MP/Scat quality is ok, but some taper is usually found. The Eagles have the same issues but IMO to a worse degree. I've used 4 Eagles and never had to fix any. But all of them had some taper and out of round and these were not the power levels you're talking about.
 
Not much help for the topic, but I looked up Callies and they are less the 20 mins from the house. Didn't know that. So I learned something today.
 
IMO, if you plan on racing it or thrashing it about in the street, I would certainly look to a strong forged crank.
If it were a street stripper with little to no track time, just some fun here and there, the cast would be OK.
I myself would save for the stronger forged unit.
 
copied from another mopar web site..

-Made from 4340 Forgings
-Core Hardened
-Nitrided
-Magnetic Partical Inspected
-Feature Straight Oiling
-Standard 6-Bolt Mopar Flange
-.125" radius fillets throughout

Available in the following Stroke/Journal Combinations:

340 main/2.125"rods-4.00" stroke
360 mains/2.125"rods-4.00" stroke
340 mains/2.100"rods-4.00" stroke
360 mains/2.100"rods-4.00" stroke
340 mains/2.00"rods-4.125" stroke
360 mains/2.00"rods-4.125" stroke

$629.00 +shipping Michigan residents add sales tax.

Please contact

[email protected]
 
I ran a cast in my previous 416 making 520 h.p...but i'm stepping up on the next build so its forged next time around,as for your build i'd go forged also..
 
I bought a forged crank from Bloomer Performance. It's balanced but took a little mallory metal on one end. Otherwise it checked out fine. He says it's from the same manufacturer that K1 buys their cranks from so it's a pretty good deal.

The engine isn't together yet so I can't give you a reliability report. My machinist had an Eagle cast crank in his 6bbl 408 in an early Barracuda, ran 7.0 in the 1/8th but it didn't last, broke the crank after only about 25 passes at the #1 rod journal.
 
Forged...the only way to go for reliability at that power level. I went forged with my 410 for peace of mind, and I’m only in the low 500hp range.
 
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