Ok thanks, Kim
changing gear selector shaft seal 1973 904A
- Thread starter Lasalle
- Start date
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Found this one online. A lot more than what I paid.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011SBJSHA/?tag=fabo03-20
Thanks
69 Dart Guy
This is the one for me y'all !!
This is an excellent thread, right on time, just got my A904 outta the Scamp and I have to change this very seal.. Got it all cleaned up and fluid drained, planned to change filter and fluid anyway, decided to drop so I can clean under the car and potentially seal changes in the transmission. Now I have more questions, like how far should I go with it? Shift kit crossed my mind? And, can anyone tell me if I need to replace the input shaft due to the scoring up close to the front seal? See pic's..
That’s on the pump. The stator needs changed. May as well get a rebuild kit as well. Do the shift kit if u want. Get your converter checked as that is what ruined the stator. Kim
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
How far can you pull in and out on that input shaft? Remove the pump bolts and spray WD40 around the pump perimeter, then pry between the sun gear shell lugs and front drum CAREFULLY to push out the pump. If it doesn't pop right out, then respray it and knock it back in, repry, rinse and repeat.. Might have to insert two 3/8" bolts into the two threaded pump holes and pry against the inside of the bell against the heads of the bolts to pull the pump out. Do not remove the small snap ring on the front of the output shaft. Just leave all that stuff in there and concentrate on the two front drums and the pump ONLY. Even if you buy a kit, leave all those rear guts ALONE. 904 problems and 98.6% of the wear in a 904 is in the two front drums.
DartGTDan
'71 Dart GT Fan
My car just got this done to it yesterday. My engine builder/mechanic picked up my Dart GT's body and while it was on the trailer, he went to the quarter car wash to clean the engine bay prior to painting it. He found the shift shaft seal was leaking and replaced it for me.
I changed the selector shaft seals and the speedo cable seals today. I did it with the trans in the car and I did not lower the back by the mount. I dropped the pan and removed the valve body. I removed the old seal by punching it out from below with a small screwdriver and small hammer. I used a Q tip to remove the crud in the groove. I installed the new seal with a socket and drew it down with a nut bolt and washer. I also replaced the filter. Thanks to all the advice from you guys and lots of Youtube videos I did not have any trouble. I think removing the valve body is the more fool proof way to go if the trans is in the car. Removing it enabled me to change the small seal and clean up the surface the big seal touches on the workbench. I think using the tool without dropping the pan would be more trouble because of limited room to work. That is if the trans is in the car.
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Cuda, I did not check for wear. I was being really brave and stretching my mechanic knowledge by opening up an automatic transmission not to mention removing parts! Everything went well and I just wanted to put it back together asap. Aside from the leaks, the transmission was performing well and I did not want to go exploring. Thanks for the hints.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you did pretty good on changing the seals. I didn't like the looks of the mush lining the pan. Problematic clutch wear could show up as what you have visible there. You have to remember; lots of clutch dust can settle in the converter; not show up in the pan. But with what you've done so far, you'll be able to r&r the front drums and pump next time; easily enough.
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