changing gear selector shaft seal 1973 904A

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Lasalle

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I need to change the leaking gear selector shaft seal on 1973 Dart 904A automatic.

*Where do you get a good quality tool to remove the seal?

*I understand there is another way that does not require a tool. It involves removing the pan and pushing the seal out from below. I am going to replace the pan gasket anyway. Is this easier or better?
 
Easier with the pan off, just because you can keep the selector shaft (and rooster comb) from dropping into the pan- then you have to pull the pan anyway. But, with the trans installed, it's still a pain to drive the seal in properly.
P.S.- there's two seals, one that goes into the trans case, and the other goes on top around the throttle shaft.
 
And make sure you inspect the shaft closely- if it's worn or grooved you'll need the heavy duty seal that is taller and rides on an unworn part of the shaft.
22072A
 
If trans is out...

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Removal is easy, it can be done with a screwdriver. To install you want the correct tool if your doing it in the car. If its out of the car you can use a socket. I think lisle makes the tool. I have had mine for a very long time and dont remember who made it.
Most of the time the o-ring on the throttle shaft is fine. Its the big seal that seems to always leak.
If you remove the crossmember bolts you can tilt the tailshaft down some and gain a little extra room. Its a tight fit to change these in the car but not a bad job. It gets easier the more of them you do.
 
IF you remove the VB then you don't need a socket to install either seal because it installs flush with the case. Just a small plate and a giant C-clamp. Or a slide hammer. As mentioned, check the manual shaft for a wear groove.
 
wow, you guys are creative! I just pulled the VB and tapped a new seal in....trans on the floor, fluid drained out the tailshaft as I was lifting it out! :rofl:
 
Changing the seal while the pan is off seems to be the way to go, especially since I was gong to have to change the pan gasket anyway. What is involved with removing the valve body? Is that just an unbolt and reinstall or is there some adjustment or trick to reinstalling it?
 
I don't like driving screws into the seal cuz you can scratch the shaft. If you don't want the park rod stuck in the trans; with the valve body just hanging down, you have to make sure that the output shaft is turned so that the park pawl engages into the park gear; engaging park fully; otherwise the rod won't come out. Once it's out, to re-install it, you have to make sure that the output shaft didn't turn with it removed; so that he rod can be re-inserted. You can actually stick your middle finger back into the tailhousing; thru the case; after the vb is down and feel the park pawl and push it into the park gear. If you turn the output shaft at the same time, you can see how it engages (or doesn't). You might want to modify the vb at this time if you haven't already. Just drill a few holes out in the shift plate, and jack the pressure.
 
That's the first TF video I've ever seen that I can recommend. But you could just use a bolt and another washer on the bottom to draw the seal in.
 
I watched some Youtube videos about removing and installing the valve body. Now I understand almost everything in the posts above. I'm still not sure about disengaging the park rod and then how to reinstall it. In the videos they just pull it out without showing what it is engaged with in the rear of the transmission.
 
Also, while I have all this open should I change the filter? I'm sure it is original. Is that something I can get at a local auto parts store? As with everything else, are there good quality ones and poor quality ones?
 
Yes, filter should be change unless you know it was just done. That dacron material will harden up over time. Even if it looks clean the filter might not flow well.
Nah, quality is about the same no matter where you get it from. Stay away from the screen filters. They flow a lot more but filter less.
 
While you have the valve body down, you could push the front drums forward and back to see how much end play (internal wear) your trans has. If you have any stuff in the pan, post pics of it.
 
JoePole1 said:
Disagree all you want but way better than screwdriver/pry method some are using. No scratching of the sealing surface or shaft damage. I'll probably never do another so not worth it to buy the tool. Worked like a champ.
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Can even do it IN the car.. without pulling the pan! :thumbsup:

1969darttransmissionsealsexhaust 016.JPG

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oldkimmer said:
Does anyone have this tool that they want to sell? Thanks. Kim
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I have two, they’re both on loan. I just charge a deposit and of course shipping both ways. And then when it’s returned they get the deposit back.
 
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