Chasing a starting problem

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CSL DART

CSL DART

1971 DART SWINGER
Joined
Mar 11, 2018
Messages
71
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Location
Beaumont CA
I've been experiencing only occasional starting problems with my 71 Sorry I'm a rookie and I've been trying to figure what's causing the car to on occasion just do absolutely nothing when I go to turn it over. I tried starting cheap with a new starter relay and then changed the shot out negative battery cable thinking it might be getting a bad ground. Both seemed to temporarily solve the problem, but then it happened again. Should my next thoughts be the ignition switch or the starter solenoid, or possibly the voltage regulator or ballast resistor? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.... thanks!
 
Do your best to describe exactly what happens and when.
So far there is about 1000 possibilities, so lets narrow that down some.:D
 
TrailBeast said:
Do your best to describe exactly what happens and when.
So far there is about 1000 possibilities, so lets narrow that down some.:D
Click to expand...
Okay thanks, it's an LA360 in a 71 Dart Swinger with electronic ignition. It starts easily on most occasions, but it seems that after a moderate amount of driving it won't turn over at all, no loud clicking, only a really faint click can be heard. If I jump it at the starter relay it fires right up and often times goes back to working normally for a while again.
 
Assuming it’s an automatic transmission. It sounds like the starter isnt cranking? Have you tried putting the gearshift into neutral to see if it cranks over when this occurs? It could be as simple as the selector linkage on the transmission being out of adjustment and not always making the neutral safety switch fully contact. Could be the neutral switch is worn some and needs replaced.
 
Dubob said:
Assuming it’s an automatic transmission. It sounds like the starter isnt cranking? Have you tried putting the gearshift into neutral to see if it cranks over when this occurs? It could be as simple as the selector linkage on the transmission being out of adjustment and not always making the neutral safety switch fully contact. Could be the neutral switch is worn some and needs replaced.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you! I will try that next time it occurs and see what happens, I really appreciate your time!
 
my $$$ on the positive battery terminal. especially if it's one of those 2 hole bolt on jobs.

908885_primary_225px.jpg
 
kursplat said:
my $$$ on the positive battery terminal. especially if it's one of those 2 hole bolt on jobs.

View attachment 1715155956
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Well, I've got the wiring skills of a common housewife, but yup it sure is and a pretty shot out one at that! I just replaced the negative cable with a better one so I'll try swapping that one out too! The guy I bought the car from has a lot of "extra custom" type wiring going on all over the car, just wish I was smart enough to criticize it lol! Thank you kursplat!

1521693534718-1801603703.jpg
 
the single faint "click" you hear is the starter relay closing. that shows neutral safety switch closed/operating properly.
If confirmed good battery connections to the starter doesn't cure it, a new starter will.
They do develop dead spots/poor connections inside.
I remember when dad would call me out to hold the key in start position while he bumped the starter with the tire tool. I recall a period of about 3 weeks when I beat the crap out of a starter on my Chevy LUV pickup. I was working 75 to 90 hours per week in a textile mill. Anyway...
Some modern mini starters ( like the one in my 96 Camry that is right there on the top, easily accessible ) have a yellow sticker on them that reads "DO NOT STRIKE WITH HAMMER". That suggests two things... striking to persuade a starter once was common practice, and these modern little starters are fragile. I mention this because lots of folks have put modern mini starters on these older engines.
 
Buy a test light and start checking the circuits, starting at starter terminals and working back, next time it happens. Will need someone working key for you. Obviously looking for bright test light at both starter terminals during crank mode. If you ground test light to engine block, you will also know ground side is good, if test light bright on positive cable terminal during crank. Continue according to results. Post back and somebody will help you further.
 
RedFish said:
the single faint "click" you hear is the starter relay closing. that shows neutral safety switch closed/operating properly.
If confirmed good battery connections to the starter doesn't cure it, a new starter will.
They do develop dead spots/poor connections inside.
I remember when dad would call me out to hold the key in start position while he bumped the starter with the tire tool. I recall a period of about 3 weeks when I beat the crap out of a starter on my Chevy LUV pickup. I was working 75 to 90 hours per week in a textile mill. Anyway...
Some modern mini starters ( like the one in my 96 Camry that is right there on the top, easily accessible ) have a yellow sticker on them that reads "DO NOT STRIKE WITH HAMMER". That suggests two things... striking to persuade a starter once was common practice, and these modern little starters are fragile. I mention this because lots of folks have put modern mini starters on these older engines.
Click to expand...
I liked and also I agree this is your problem likely.
 
You could possibly take your free Harbor Freight test meter out of its package and read the instructions on how to test voltage and put it on your battery while your wife cranks the car and see how far the voltage drops while it's cranking. That could possibly tell you if you have worn brushes on your starter or something's just causing too much of a draw.
It was funny watching my dad look for his Harbor Freight free meter voltmeter and showing him how to use it to test his motorcycle battery LOL people are so scared of wiring LOL
 
Actually I don't think people are scared of the test meter as much as that little teeny piece of paper that folds out into a bunch of instructions! LOL
 
I have exactly the same problem. Occasionally it just won't start. No loud click from the solenoid, just a really faint click coming from (sounds like) the dash/column area. When I jump it at the relay (I'm pretty sure I'm jumping the starter relay, haha) it starts up no problem. I just assumed it was a problem with the ignition switch, since the connection between the relay and the starter never fails...

Also, free test meter?! What goodness is this? I love free stuff!
 
ScamperTom said:
I have exactly the same problem. Occasionally it just won't start. No loud click from the solenoid, just a really faint click coming from (sounds like) the dash/column area. When I jump it at the relay (I'm pretty sure I'm jumping the starter relay, haha) it starts up no problem. I just assumed it was a problem with the ignition switch, since the connection between the relay and the starter never fails...

Also, free test meter?! What goodness is this? I love free stuff!
Click to expand...
Then you'll Love Harbor Freight get their coupons LOL
 
the battery conn is cheep and easy. anything else, learn to trouble shoot it. WAY cheeper in the long run

good luck
 
Wait my Girl friend is the same way. Cheap & Easy. Wow what a coincidence. Lol
 
CSL DART said:
If I jump it at the starter relay it fires right up and often times goes back to working normally for a while again.
Click to expand...

I'd start there for testing or replace it. I have had them intermittently fail then finally fail. Heat may not be helping its life span.
 
That dang LUV truck did the same thing. I started parking on the hill side of the lot at work so I could coast out and pop the clutch to start it if necessary. One day I could start it a work and drive 1/8 mile down the hill to the Red Diamond station, pump some gas, and the bugger wouldn't start again. Pouring down rain too. Raised the hood, banged on the starter with a length of pipe, jumped in, tried the switch. Did this a few times before it would start. Then it would continue to start for a day or 2. Heat wasn't a factor. Just a aggravating POS starter.
 
RedFish said:
That dang LUV truck did the same thing. I started parking on the hill side of the lot at work so I could coast out and pop the clutch to start it if necessary. One day I could start it a work and drive 1/8 mile down the hill to the Red Diamond station, pump some gas, and the bugger wouldn't start again. Pouring down rain too. Raised the hood, banged on the starter with a length of pipe, jumped in, tried the switch. Did this a few times before it would start. Then it would continue to start for a day or 2. Heat wasn't a factor. Just a aggravating POS starter.
Click to expand...
Was it like this?
IMG_20180317_131422.jpg
 
Thanks to everyone for all your thoughts and advice! I'm still amazed by this forum and it makes it so much easier for beginner mechanics like myself to have a clue for what to look for. I haven't had a chance to get to the car yet, but now I have a game plan when I do....
 
Yes, your problem is the starter solenoid which can be temperature sensitive when they get old (bad contacts inside). All parts for solenoid and starter are available to rebuild but this takes some soldering and skills not for the beginner. Have fun, we are here to help.
 
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