Cheapest place for torsion bar removal tool/clamp?
- Thread starter MRGTX
- Start date
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Cuda68Scott
Well-Known Member
Same thought here, can borrow mine if you are close. I bought mine here in a set: MOPAR AMERICAN MUSCLE 23461 Torsion Bar Remover/Installer A, B, E & C Body He did give me a slight discount over the web price when I called him to place the order.
Must have been doing it wrong! ;)
If anyone wants to buy mine, I’ll sell it. $20 plus shipping. It’s an unnecessary waste of tool box space, just so you know ahead of time.
Just like you say is the magical way. Nothing is so magical it works every time. One Duster a friend and I had to snatch it apart with a Ford 8N chained to the K frame because the torsion bars were so rusted into the mounts. At that point we had literally tried it all. The tool, your way, a torch, and finally I got the tractor out. Since we were parting the car out, the damage we did to the body didn't matter. lol
I guess I just don't understand the stuck torsion bar thing ? I'm 60 and have changed so many I can't count.
I have lived in Ohio all my life and talk about rust if the clip was still there the tangs were rusted off. After digging the rusted clip out then scrap scrap scrap the rust from the back of the crossmember squirt some oil on it, loosen the LCA from the K member and clamp vice grips on a piece of rubber around the Tbar and smack it once and it comes out. Very seldom do I need to smack it 2 or 3 times.
I have lived in Ohio all my life and talk about rust if the clip was still there the tangs were rusted off. After digging the rusted clip out then scrap scrap scrap the rust from the back of the crossmember squirt some oil on it, loosen the LCA from the K member and clamp vice grips on a piece of rubber around the Tbar and smack it once and it comes out. Very seldom do I need to smack it 2 or 3 times.
If you say so. If the bar needs that kind of effort to remove its junk anyway, torch it and drive out the hexes with drift and a sledge.
Like I said, $20 and shipping to anyone that wants mine. I’m 100% confident I’ll never need it, so it’s still a waste of money for anyone that buys it.
Yeah I don’t get it.
I would also never use vice grips on a torsion bar I intended to use again. Ever. They do fail from surface damage, usually with a bang. No thanks. But if it’s destined for the scrap heap, what the heck.
Thanks a million to all for the input.
So I don't think I'll ever reuse my stock 318 torsion bars...but I do agree with not gouging them if possible...so a piece of garden hose or some other kind of rubber along with a vice grip sounds like a good (free) tool solution. I'll try that first.
Define "best."
Best quality bars? Upgrade? OEM replacement? Cheapest price?
Thanks! I'm in CT...not quite a short enough driving distance.
Lol...Oh, internet forums.
As someone who usually throws money at a problem and later figures out how I could have done something much cheaper, I thought it was worth an ask. If I had a nickel back for every dollar that I've spent on tools bought for one particular job, I'd buy everyone a beer.
Oh...and I do collect Hotwheels too!
So I don't think I'll ever reuse my stock 318 torsion bars...but I do agree with not gouging them if possible...so a piece of garden hose or some other kind of rubber along with a vice grip sounds like a good (free) tool solution. I'll try that first.
Define "best."
Best quality bars? Upgrade? OEM replacement? Cheapest price?
Thanks! I'm in CT...not quite a short enough driving distance.
Lol...Oh, internet forums.
As someone who usually throws money at a problem and later figures out how I could have done something much cheaper, I thought it was worth an ask. If I had a nickel back for every dollar that I've spent on tools bought for one particular job, I'd buy everyone a beer.
Oh...and I do collect Hotwheels too!
I have a small collection myself. Worth nothing I am sure. I only grab the ones that appeal to me. I am just a tool nut. After decades in the auto repair business, I cannot help it.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Do yourself a favor and by some 5/8-11 all-thread - about 6" long, some matching nuts and washers. This will help you line everything back up when you re-assemble. They thread into the K-member bolt holes and keep everything aligned until you get the K-member close enough to use the regular bolts.
I've had cases where I didn't need the tool and some cases where I did...
It's good to have the tool when you need it.... [that's what she said...]
It's good to have the tool when you need it.... [that's what she said...
]plymman
Well-Known Member
Bought a large cable clamp at a logging supply store, worked great. A lot less than 40 bucks and did no damage.
furyus2
Well-Known Member
Take off the upper control arm bumpers first. They do keep some tension on the bars. Then loosen the lower control arm nut. Remove clips at the rear of the bars. Pry the Lower control arm to the rear. The bar will come out. The removal of the upper control arm bumpers is the key.
furyus2
Well-Known Member
Sorry. Double post.
I always just separate the spindle from the lower ball joint. Pull the shock, drop the tie rod end and the spindle off the ball joint, disconnect the sway bar if you've got one, and take the nut off the end of the strut rod. It totally frees the LCA, no tension on the bar from any suspension components hanging on it, and the bar usually slides right out.
It sounds like a lot, but it usually takes me less than 10 minutes to pull all that stuff. It's what, two cotter pins and 7 nuts? Piece of cake. And by disconnecting all of it you don't have to worry about any of that stuff getting moved, just hook it back up and set it to the same ride height and you're good to go. And if you're doing a suspension rebuild, all that stuff has to come off anyway. If you're not, then all that stuff should already be in good condition, so it'll be fast.
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