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Shamrock--WV2NC

Shamrock--WV2NC

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Ok. Adding a few things to the 318 in a few weeks. My dad and brother are coming to give me a hand because I'm clueless. Anyway. Here's what's at the house. I just need to see if I'm missing some kind of grease or gaskets I'm not sure of.

Engine gasket kit
Eddy valve covers and breather
Carb
Carb gasket
Intake
Timing gear and chain set
Cam
Lifters
Springs
Comp cam engine break in oil additive
I believe that's it. Is there a lube to put on the cam before putting it in?
I had another question about intake bolts on a different thread.
Thanks for any help. This all has to get done in a weekend so I wanna be sure to have EVERYTHING I need on hand.
 
your going to want to run a PCV valve
maybe replace the valvecover bolts with studs?

there should be break in lube with the cam

now, you may want to consider bolting your stock carb onto that new intake to break in the cam, and then switch out to the new one after the break in
(just cheap insurance the engine will fire at first crank)

oh, got a timing light handy?
 
if its a cast valve cover youll need the longer studs. black moly lube can be used for cam/lifter slather prior to install, and get an extra oil filter. Your new one will be done after about 300 miles.
 
Garden hose to top up rad if need be on break in. Box fan for added cooling. Fire extinguisher (hope u don't need it)
Make sure thermostat has "jiggle valve".
"Right Stuff" RTV. Make sure when you use it, that you allow it to setup/cure BEFORE adding any fluids to it.
Piston stop for #1 Compression TDC.
Video camera.
Have fun!
 
diymirage said:
now, you may want to consider bolting your stock carb onto that new intake to break in the cam, and then switch out to the new one after the break in
(just cheap insurance the engine will fire at first crank)
Click to expand...
This is excellent advice. If you are having to dork around with a new carb just to get it to run at first, it will screw up the cam break in procedure and the cam be end up ruined. Guys screw themsevles up regularly by making too many changes at once.

One way to do this and reduce the extra re-work is to buy a 2 bbl to 4 bbl adapter an use that to put the present 2 BBL carb on the new intake. Then all you have to do is to swap the carbs after a good break-in period for the cam. The sell the adapter is you are short on $. They don't cost a ton.
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
Ok. Adding a few things to the 318 in a few weeks. My dad and brother are coming to give me a hand because I'm clueless. Anyway. Here's what's at the house. I just need to see if I'm missing some kind of grease or gaskets I'm not sure of.

Engine gasket kit
Eddy valve covers and breather
Carb
Carb gasket
Intake
Timing gear and chain set
Cam
Lifters
Springs
Comp cam engine break in oil additive
I believe that's it. Is there a lube to put on the cam before putting it in?
I had another question about intake bolts on a different thread.
Thanks for any help. This all has to get done in a weekend so I wanna be sure to have EVERYTHING I need on hand.
Click to expand...


Use this on the cam lobes and lifters: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI6-Llra_P1AIViYqzCh0LvwGyEAQYAiABEgJHGPD_BwE

Great stuff and I've used it on multiple cams with great results. The COMP lube? Eh, not so much. Too runny for my liking. Sticky Crane moly lube > runny Comp cam sauce.

An oil pump priming shaft would be a good idea too: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4286800/overview/

As far as break in goes, here's what I do... Lucas SAE30 break in oil and a Wix filter. Prime the motor with the shaft (use a drill to spin it), turning the crank over by hand and verifying that oil is getting to the top end of the motor and you have oil pressure. Check for oil leaks (filter, sending unit, etc.). Drop the distributor in and fire the thing up. Remember that if you go dot-to-dot on the cam and crank sprockets then your timing is going to be 180 degrees out when you drop the distributor in and set it to #1. If you're 180 out it'll pop and backfire but won't start. Once it's running it's mostly a waiting game. Check for leaks, monitor temperature and oil pressure. Don't let it idle at first, vary the RPM's some, maybe a few quick revs every so often, and after 20 minutes or so back the idle down and let it idle for a bit then shut it off. At this point I will spin on a new oil filter and go for a drive. After a couple hundred miles it's time for an oil change. I like VR1 because it's fine for old engines with flat tappet cams, but there are multiple suitable oils you could use. My favorite part about cam break in is when it's done and I can relax.

Are you pulling the heads off to change the springs? What cam did you go with?
 
ScampMike said:
did your question about intake bolts get answered on the other thread?
Click to expand...

Not really. Use studs Don't use studs. Reuse the original bolts but chase it with a die. I'm like wtf. If just figuring out the right bolts is this difficult than maybe I should give up
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
Not really. Use studs Don't use studs. Reuse the original bolts but chase it with a die. I'm like wtf. If just figuring out the right bolts is this difficult than maybe I should give up
Click to expand...

It's simple.

You can reuse the stock bolts if they're in good condition. Clean them up before reusing them though. Forget about the studs. Personally I would just buy new bolts since they're cheap.

Don't give up though. Perseverance is important with old cars. They will give you problems and kick you while you're down but don't give up. Every time you come across a problem, learn from it and keep moving forward. I was pretty discouraged when my 318 wiped a cam after 2,000 miles. What did I do about it? Used it as an opportunity to build something better.

Problems are to be expected with these old beasts. How you handle those problems is what's important.
 
Last edited:
BlueDream said:
Use this on the cam lobes and lifters: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI6-Llra_P1AIViYqzCh0LvwGyEAQYAiABEgJHGPD_BwE

Great stuff and I've used it on multiple cams with great results. The COMP lube? Eh, not so much. Too runny for my liking. Sticky Crane moly lube > runny Comp cam sauce.

An oil pump priming shaft would be a good idea too: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4286800/overview/

As far as break in goes, here's what I do... Lucas SAE30 break in oil and a Wix filter. Prime the motor with the shaft (use a drill to spin it), turning the crank over by hand and verifying that oil is getting to the top end of the motor and you have oil pressure. Check for oil leaks (filter, sending unit, etc.). Drop the distributor in and fire the thing up. Remember that if you go dot-to-dot on the cam and crank sprockets then your timing is going to be 180 degrees out when you drop the distributor in and set it to #1. If you're 180 out it'll pop and backfire but won't start. Once it's running it's mostly a waiting game. Check for leaks, monitor temperature and oil pressure. Don't let it idle at first, vary the RPM's some, maybe a few quick revs every so often, and after 20 minutes or so back the idle down and let it idle for a bit then shut it off. At this point I will spin on a new oil filter and go for a drive. After a couple hundred miles it's time for an oil change. I like VR1 because it's fine for old engines with flat tappet cams, but there are multiple suitable oils you could use. My favorite part about cam break in is when it's done and I can relax.

Are you pulling the heads off to change the springs? What cam did you go with?
Click to expand...

Great details. Thanks. As far as pulling the heads, not sure. My step brother is the mechanic in the family so whatever he says I'm good with.
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
Not really. Use studs Don't use studs. Reuse the original bolts but chase it with a die. I'm like wtf. If just figuring out the right bolts is this difficult than maybe I should give up
Click to expand...
no need to give up - sometimes "we" make it WAY more difficult sounding than it really is - there is no shortage of opinions here. Truth is, what you are about to do has been done a bazillion times - stick to the basics and you'll be fine. I would simply get a set of new bolts from a local hardware store - problem solved. They are very common - probably automotive grade 3 or 5. Bring the originals with you so you can match up the threads and don't forget to compensate for extra thickness of the new intake (if it is different).
 
BTW - I don't care how many times you've done this or how hard you try to make SURE you have everything you need - it's Murphy's law... something WILL come up.
 
U
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
Not really. Use studs Don't use studs. Reuse the original bolts but chase it with a die. I'm like wtf. If just figuring out the right bolts is this difficult than maybe I should give up
Click to expand...

Is the engine coming out and going back in this weekend? To me an engine gasket kit is everything from the oil pan to the carburetor gasket.
 
doogievlg said:
U


Is the engine coming out and going back in this weekend? To me an engine gasket kit is everything from the oil pan to the carburetor gasket.
Click to expand...

He'll need a carb gasket, intake gaskets, a timing cover gasket, a distributor gasket and if the heads come off he'll need head and exhaust gaskets. Maybe oil pan gaskets if the timing cover isn't being cooperative. A gasket kit will come with valve seals too, which he might want to change while the springs are off. While everything is apart it'd be easy to change the fuel pump gasket and water pump gasket.

I could see a full gasket set being useful even if all the gaskets aren't used. Most of them will be.
 
Is this 318 rebuilt? I'm going thru the same right now...went to put a new cam in only to find the cam bearings were shot.
Motor is going thru a full rebuild now.
 
Shamrock--WV2NC said:
I got the fel-pro gasket kit 2114
Click to expand...

You'll be tearing into the motor far enough that you'll be able to use most of what comes in the kit. With a 2176 intake you might run into problems with the cork end gaskets for the manifold. If it's too tight, ditch the cork and use a bead of RTV instead.
 
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