Choke Issue on 1 Barrel Carter BBS

[SputnikOne]

Yeah, atleast it's /just/ black.

 

[MDchanic]

Should I do anything special to the threads at all, or just screw it in there? Never really messed with UNF threads before.

In theory, nothing.

Personally, I like to use a very tiny amount of Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant on both the threads and the actual sealing surface.

The thread sealant is non-drying, so it will prevent the steel nut from seizing in the aluminum body in the future.

I put the tiniest, almost invisible amount of it on the flare surface itself, bearing in mind that I don't want any to squish into the lumen of the tubing as it's tightened (outside is okay). I have done this to seal stubborn flare connections that have refused to seal, even with highly inappropriate amounts of torque, and they've held indefinitely, so now I just always use a tiny amount, under the assumption that it will allow me to avoid overtightening in general.

But the Party Line is, no sealant.

- Eric

 

[SputnikOne]

While I wait for this part to arrive, is it a bad idea to connect just the inlet side of the fuel pump and leave the outlet side unconnected? I'd like to do as much work as I can while I wait, but I don't want to cause a leak because theres not actually a line that comes out of the pump yet.

 

[MDchanic]

No, that's fine.

 

[SputnikOne]

It won't leak out the other side or anything?

 

[MDchanic]

Is it leaking out of the fuel line now?

 

[SputnikOne]

No, I just meant out of the other side of the fuel pump if there's no line connected to it.

 

[MDchanic]

But it would have to be coming out of the fuel line from the tank, in order to make it through the fuel pump, right?

If because of the slope of the ground where the car is parked, and the level of fuel in the tank, the fuel wants to come out on its own, then it may be able to push past the valves of the fuel pump, but if it's staying put anyway, it won't decide to come out now that the hose is connected to the pump.

But if you're concerned, just don't attach the hose until tomorrow.

- Eric

 

[SputnikOne]

Well the old electrical pump is still connected and hoses to the carburetor, that's why I was wondering

 

[MDchanic]

If you pull the hose off of the tank side of the electric fuel pump and more than a residual amount of gas comes out, put it back on, or clamp the hose with a pair of Vise-Grips, and wait until tomorrow.

If more than a residual amount of gas doesn't come out, then feel free to mess with it.

You can clamp a pair of Vise-Grips on the piece of hose closest to the tank to make sure the fuel stays in until you want to let it out, which would allow you to remove everything after that and get it all ready for the new pump.

- Eric

 

[SputnikOne]

Got the part I needed, starting to disconnect the old electrical pump, what should I do with the power wire that goes to it?

 

[MDchanic]

... what should I do with the power wire that goes to it?

Snip it and tape it.

– Eric

 

[SputnikOne]

Haven't tried to start it yet, but I got the hoses routed, let me know if anything is agregious, I've never fixed anything like this before.

 

[SputnikOne]

I still gotta mount the outlet hose somewhere so it isn't just sitting on the alternator.

 

[MDchanic]

… let me know if anything is agregious…

Basically okay.

I think I’d run the hose to the carburetor under the PCV hose, to keep it out of trouble, and there’s no need to run the hose from the tank over the top of the fender.

– Eric

 

[SputnikOne]

Yeah, to he perfectly honest I just wasn't able to cut the hose down with my shitty knife, if it's troublesome I can do that, but I figured I would at least route it through that rubber mount that wasn't used at all.

 

[MDchanic]

Knife?

You need a big pair of dikes or a pair of metal shears.

Well, actually, you need both, but at least one. They're very basic tools.

Watch the flea markets.

– Eric