MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
Me too.
Besides the DuraLast pump that the PO installed just before he sold me the car lasted less than a year.
– Eric
Choke Issue on 1 Barrel Carter BBS
- Thread starter SputnikOne
- Start date
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Me too.
Besides the DuraLast pump that the PO installed just before he sold me the car lasted less than a year.
– Eric
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
Well, I've got my fingers crossed for this next one.
I'm getting tired of replacing them.
– Eric
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Just got the fuel pump yanked out, much easier from underneath. Some pretty black fluid I assume to be oil came out when it pulled out.
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Pump doesn't look too great either, barely any range of motion, but that might be normal.
What does the black fluid smell like? You won't be able to move the pump arm through its range by hand.
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
That's what she said.
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
"A hard spring is good to find."
– Eric
– Eric
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
It doesn't really have a strong smell to it, all I can smell right now is the penetrating oil I used to help free the bolts, unless that's what this oil would smell like too
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Its cleaning up pretty nicely, is there a way to test if it is still good for the car?
I don't really know of a way. It could still pull fuel and be bad if the diaphragm spews gas into the crankcase.
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Is there anything unique to installing a pump on the Slant six? Do I have to do the pushrod black magic to get it on? I can't seem to find any guides or videos that actually show the installation for this engine, and I don't want to just try it and screw it up.
Nope. You CAN turn the engine so the cam lobe is on the low side, but I've never bothered. Just bolt it on and go.
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Sounds suspiciously easy! I'll see what I can do.
It is, actually.
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Can't seem to get the bolts to thread back into the engine, do I push down on the pump to get it to go in? I'm alittle confused.
Unless you turn the engine to get the fuel pump lobe on the cam facing the low spot toward the fuel pump hole, yeah you're probably gonna have to manipulate the fuel pump some. I thought I mentioned that.
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I just got it on there, really gotta start hitting the gym lol that kicked my ***. How tight should the bolts be, just as tight as I can get them to go with the wrench?
Didn't you just remove them a little bit ago? About that tight.
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Pretty stuck now, the pump I have has a "1/2-20 UNF" outlet, and I can't seem to figure out how to get an adaptor to fit that to a 5/16th hose that's currently installed from the previous electrical pump. I'm not really familiar with UNF but if I can just keep the fuel hose and get a connector with a hose barb it would make things a lot easier.
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
Stuck? Never.
Steel fuel lines are used after the pump, with exceptions in some cars for very short lengths of hose connecting fuel filters, because the fuel after the pump is under pressure, and, as a manufacturer, it is unwise to create a possible failure point that, through abrasion, melting, age-cracking, etc., could lead to pressurized fuel spraying all over the engine, which could lead to a fire.
Plenty of people have replaced the steel lines with rubber over the years, for reasons such as carburetor, manifold, and emissions equipment changes (including me), and never had a problem, but there have been a few who HAVE had problems, those problems generally being cars that burst into flames while driving. It's something I try to avoid now that I'm older and wiser.
I am under the impression that the previous owner of your car used rubber hose after the pump (I may be wrong about this).
So, the first thing you could do is take the stub of fuel line off of the old pump, put it on the new pump, and attach your hose to that. For the reasons above, this is sub-optimal, but it will work. In addition, since the steel fuel line stub is not barbed, it would be wise to push the hose all the way up onto it and use at least two hose clamps to attach it – you dont want the hose pushing off (see above).
The next thing you could do is get a male 1/2-20 45° inverted-flare to hose barb fitting (I'm taking your word that it's 1/2-20), like these (from Amazon).
It's neater and less Redneck, and has a little barb that will keep the hose from shooting off.
If you had a flare tool, you could just flare the end of the tubing stub you've got, and file the edge smooth, and use that, but I know you don't have a flare tool (put one on your list).
Finally, you could obtain a pre-bent steel line for your engine (from a scrapyard or a fancy company like Inline Tube), or buy some steel line and a flare tool and do it yourself, but honestly, not many of us would go to the trouble.
I think I've covered that one.
– Eric
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Problem is the previous pump was electric, so I can't really just swap anything out. The old mechanical pump was there, but it still had a bit of the old metal line on it, but he just like pinched it off and cut it and the bolt absolutely refuses to come loose, so I can't really reuse that either, I found a better version of the hose barb you suggest and it should arrive by tomorrow.
MDchanic
Connoisseur d'Junque
Aw, c'mon. Vise, big pair of Vise-Grips, and a sledgehammer, and it'll come off. 100% Guaranteed. And still be usable.
You should take it off just for practice. You may need to do something like that one day on the side of the road, and the experience is invaluable.
The better version is the way to go. Remember, the flare is the sealing surface, Do NOT tape the threads like pipe thread.
- Eric
SputnikOne
Well-Known Member
Should I do anything special to the threads at all, or just screw it in there? Never really messed with UNF threads before.
Wow, looks like oil change time also.
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