Cleaning up engine bay for paint questions

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YWGScamp72

YWGScamp72

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Hello, I have been Sanding and sandblasting the engine bay in my 72 scamp to prep for the motor I'm building and I have some questions on paint and items I can remove to clean up the look a bit.

I'm using the kbs rust paint kit on bare metal and high wear areas and what to know what paint and primer is best to cover the entire engine bay. Was thinking of using Hemi orange engine enamel for it's heat and chemical resistance. Will this have any reactions with the kbs rust seal? And is priming nescissary if everything is sanded with 320grit sand paper?

What have you used to paint the brake booster, wiper motor and blower motor?

And what is this steel line that runs along the fuel line and up to the rad support? Breather line for the tank? Can I remove it?

Thanks again for the help guys! Looking forward to your replies.

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Are you using an HVLP gun or rattle canning it? Assuming HVLP I would prep and paint the engine bay just like the rest of the car. Typically that involves an epoxy primer / sealer over the existing metal/paint and perhaps a single stage urethane paint. You have to ask KBS what is required to paint over top of it. Perhaps top coating is covered in their instructions.
 
That line is to the canister for vapor. I’d leave it in and not mess with it.
 
No need to use an engine paint on the engine bay...use same as body (automotive quality).

If you sandblast rusty areas then you should not have to use a special rust paint. I guess I'm confused. I would use epoxy primer on the bare metal as mentioned above and then prime and paint as you would the rest of the car per paint manufactures recommendations. i.e., if you are using say PPG urethane single stage, you would look at the tech sheet for recommended primer surfacers...then you look at the primer surfacer tech sheet for what it recommends under it as far as primer and sanding grit. Ultimately, pulling the string as I described will start with a DTM (direct to metal) primer (most likely epoxy).

I'm not sure what color brake boosters were in the day but Eastwood sells a wide variety of paints for brake parts including a cadmium looking system.
 
No doubt about it. DTM or epoxy primer on bare metal or quality primer on properly prepared
painted surfaces.
As for rattle can primer and enamel...most would shudder at the thoughts of that. I hate to
admit it but i have done that with good results that stood up well. Spray cans can be made
up to match your paint and are so easy to use. But you are taking a risk
 
mine was epoxy primes scuffed and shot with body color. some dent removal and filler but not much...I had the tell tale dents from header installations and engine swaps LOL!
 
ir3333 said:
No doubt about it. DTM or epoxy primer on bare metal or quality primer on properly prepared
painted surfaces.
As for rattle can primer and enamel...most would shudder at the thoughts of that. I hate to
admit it but i have done that with good results that stood up well. Spray cans can be made
up to match your paint and are so easy to use. But you are taking a risk
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I should have done that with mine but I was in too big of a hurry to hear the thing run. My thought was I will be taking the engine out in a year or two to paint the car so I will paint it body color then. In the meantime, gloss black is better than rust. That was 12 years ago.

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toolmanmike said:
I should have done that with mine but I was in too big of a hurry to hear the thing run. My thought was I will be taking the engine out in a year or two to paint the car so I will paint it body color then. In the meantime, gloss black is better than rust. That was 12 years ago.

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Where's your wiper motor?! Can I get rid of mine too?! Or replace it with an under dash unit? (My bushings went anyway and only 1 is currently working)
 
You will get a cleaner job if you will unbolt all that stuff from the firewall before you start painting. Get it all sanded, shoot some epoxy primer on it, let that dry and then top coat it with the color you want to use afterwards. If you paint the color within the time frame of a day or two, you will not have to sand the epoxy primer beforehand. Buy one of the purple spray guns from Harbor Freight to paint it with. They cost $26 with a regulator and do a nice job.
 
JDMopar said:
You will get a cleaner job if you will unbolt all that stuff from the firewall before you start painting. Get it all sanded, shoot some epoxy primer on it, let that dry and then top coat it with the color you want to use afterwards. If you paint the color within the time frame of a day or two, you will not have to sand the epoxy primer beforehand. Buy one of the purple spray guns from Harbor Freight to paint it with. They cost $26 with a regulator and do a nice job.
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That's awesome thanks for the advice. I have a $30 one from princess auto that does nice work.
 
epoxy primer
single stage paint in body color (this is especially important with a light color - the underhood heat can cause clear coat to yellow with time and then it looks out of place because it doesn't match the body)
Take all the metal to bare steel - DA sander and wire brush attachments on an angle grinder and a drill (lots of different sizes and shapes)
wipe it all down with Brakekleen before primer

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This was all done (down from the firewall pinch weld) using 66 Auto Color single stage spray bombs that have a separate hardener unit in the can. It came out great with the metallic, the color and the finish well matched to the body shop's base coat clear coat.
 
str12-340 said:
epoxy primer
single stage paint in body color (this is especially important with a light color - the underhood heat can cause clear coat to yellow with time and then it looks out of place because it doesn't match the body)
Take all the metal to bare steel - DA sander and wire brush attachments on an angle grinder and a drill (lots of different sizes and shapes)
wipe it all down with Brakekleen before primer

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This was all done (down from the firewall pinch weld) using 66 Auto Color single stage spray bombs that have a separate hardener unit in the can. It came out great with the metallic, the color and the finish well matched to the body shop's base coat clear coat.
Click to expand...
Nice! Looks great. I'm all about the single stage. Going for a custom somewhat "patina finish." I'll post pics for sure once paint is done.
 
Ended up sanding it all the way down and used the 4 step kbs rust paint system in semi gloss black. Turned out phenomenal. I sprayed it with a 1.7 tip and it went on nicely without thinning.

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