Clevite 77 Questions

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SpeedThrills

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I'm tearing down a 360 I bought to look around and see what's in it. The previous owner didn't know much about it. The owner before him had it built.

Anyhow, the rod bearings are Clevite 77 CB481P. I can find them available, no problem.

However, the mains are another story. The thrust is a MB2623P and the rear is a NB2624P. The 1, 2 and 4 bearings are either MB2590P-U or MB2622P-U/L; both numbers are on each shell. None of the main bearing numbers show up when I search.

What mains do I use to replace what I have? I figured I'd just use what is in it. All the bearings have dates of 10/97 or 2/98. Are these numbers no good any longer?

All are .010, if that matters.
 
Clevite bearings are good bearings. I would measure mains and throws first. Then purchase the proper size. A good service manual is recommended! 65'
 
What you are looking at is the individual part #'s that would be the components to make up a set of MS-1266P Main bearings, used in 360's from 1974 and newer. The MB-2590P Upper "shell" is just a carry over from the earlier "set" known as MS-1051P and is still the same component used in the MS-1266P set. And of course you would have to chose a set of 10 under to match your crank if it's in good shape.
 
Clevite bearings are good bearings. I would measure mains and throws first. Then purchase the proper size. A good service manual is recommended! 65'
I have a 2-3 mic on the way. I have a couple "how to" books that show the rods at 2.125, and the mains at 2.81.

What you are looking at is the individual part #'s that would be the components to make up a set of MS-1266P Main bearings, used in 360's from 1974 and newer. The MB-2590P Upper "shell" is just a carry over from the earlier "set" known as MS-1051P and is still the same component used in the MS-1266P set. And of course you would have to chose a set of 10 under to match your crank if it's in good shape.
I thought I might be seeing individual numbers on the mains, as they are sold as sets, since the rods are sold individually.

Thank you, both! I have the entire drivetrain (also a 727 and 9" Ferd w/ ladder bars) that I took out of a wrecked D150 about 8 years ago. It's going in my 74 Dart Sport, that I'm cloning into a 70-71 Duster. It's been sitting in the garage 11 years. Hey, good things take time! (I have been working on it the last year or so.)

Maybe I should start a build thread to keep me moving.
 
Sounds like a nice project, sitting for 11 years is not bad. Mine sat longer just finished it up last year! 65'
 
What you are looking at is the individual part #'s that would be the components to make up a set of MS-1266P Main bearings, used in 360's from 1974 and newer. The MB-2590P Upper "shell" is just a carry over from the earlier "set" known as MS-1051P and is still the same component used in the MS-1266P set. And of course you would have to chose a set of 10 under to match your crank if it's in good shape.
I do believe the MB2590 shell is the ungrooved lower half shell used in the MC1051P set which is the set for standard use with ungrooved lower bearing halves. That set is still listed in the Mahle-Clevite catalog, which can be downloaded from the internet (catalop EB-40-16 for performance bearings). The MC1266 set is for full grooved mains.
 
Yes in deed a MB2590L part #is a lower shell , non grooved shell, but is not a component of a set of MS1266P's which he has, according to the list of other part #'s he provided
 
Do a plan for your oiling
rod oiling especially the journal where the feeds for the rockers run through the cam lowers pressure where it's needed
this is where 360 degree main bearing grooves help
alternatives are special drilling of the crank so you only need half grove main bearings
oiling the rods is critical so think that part through
I've tried most everything - tubeing the galleries to get around the fact that basically you have a non main priority design
I've put a pressure relief valve at the front of the block with a HP spring at the pump
I've fed the rocker shafts externally and with pushrod oiling
so if your lowers are grooved and the block is apart make sure the oil feeds match the oil holes in the bearings and drill the feeds 9/32 and round all the corners
drill through the thrust from the rear to pressure feed the thrust, and chamfer the parting lines towards the rear
the converter and especially the clutch want to force all the thrust oil out the front .o40 through the block more through the bearing- make a pocket
make sure the plugs near the timing chain are drilled- not only for oiling but to bleed any air or foam .040 ish
make sure the distributor gear has some lube squirted at the mesh (BBM- can you do this with SBM?)\
Read the sticky article and others a gain
hard drive shaft
if your lifter bores are worn or have that big recess at the top you have to bush them find a shop with the correct tooling
the cross over is an easy install if it fits your plans after you thoroughly know the oil flow
 

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