Everything is done over the chrome! They are vacuumized chromed first, and all of the details are done over that! These bezels were done by Mr. G's about 15 years ago!!
Cluster Housing Refurb
- Thread starter Rustyfish
- Start date
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Everything is done over the chrome! They are vacuumized chromed first, and all of the details are done over that! These bezels were done by Mr. G's about 15 years ago!!
Rustyfish
Member
Just looked at Mr G's website and they no longer have the chrome equipment or guy that does the work.
I got Nella's 67 Cuda bezels and pillar posts done at GCAR out of Washington state, top quality all the way! And, I sent him unbroken pieces to work with, and it was cheaper than buying the repops to get em done!!
Rustyfish
Member
So I've finally finished up my cluster. It's not near perfect but it cost very little over all and I'm pretty happy with it. I first tried some chrome spray following the procedural advice from the board in what order to paint the different color finishes. Well that was a disaster. So I stripped it again and started over. First I sprayed the black and found it easier to mask the black band around the perimeter and then sprayed the silver. I polished the lenses, cleaned up the circuit board, fixed a couple of broken pins and put her back together. We'll see how it works, but this is mostly cosmetic as I'm going to rely mostly on some aftermarket gauges for real data.
I would highly suggest bench testing it before it goes back in, it will save you a lot of headaches by being able to address any problems before it goes back in!! Looks great tho, you did a great job!! I would be proud of that work!!
As cosgig said, bench test before installing. I use a 6v lantern battery.
Looks great, its tedious work but it's not expensive and the pride of a diy!
Looks great, its tedious work but it's not expensive and the pride of a diy!
That looks great!
clifftt
Well-Known Member
Well done Rusty!
Heres An Addendum to this post on gage ohm readings.
I also have a gage cluster from a 66 B-Cuda that I am working on. I have all the gages out of the cluster.
So..... Red Fish......., are the ohm readings in post 34 suppose to be good readings,??. I did that test on the back of my 66 fuel gage and couldn't get a reading on post "I". So I drilled out one rivet on the back of the gage and swung the gage face out of the way. Their was no salt and pepper sprinkles, and all the wires were attached, and still good. I wasn't getting any reading on post "I". Post "I" has a tiny set of breaker points as part of it. I took A strip of 2000 grit emery paper, and sanded both sides of the points, while putting a little pressure on them with a Q-tip.
After sanding the points, I put the gage face back on and read all the omhs again.
here what I got now.
A to S=20.8 ohms
I to S= 20.8 ohms
I to housing=50.8 ohms
A to housing=50.7-8 0hms
S to housing =71.6 ohms
before I sanded the little points, I had all those readings, but none at all on "I".
So what I was wondering, are those readings good. I have the 66 Fac service manual, but it dosn't mention any values for checking voltage limiter. It mentions the tool #C-3826, for checking individual gages.
Thanks barracudadave67
I also have a gage cluster from a 66 B-Cuda that I am working on. I have all the gages out of the cluster.
So..... Red Fish......., are the ohm readings in post 34 suppose to be good readings,??. I did that test on the back of my 66 fuel gage and couldn't get a reading on post "I". So I drilled out one rivet on the back of the gage and swung the gage face out of the way. Their was no salt and pepper sprinkles, and all the wires were attached, and still good. I wasn't getting any reading on post "I". Post "I" has a tiny set of breaker points as part of it. I took A strip of 2000 grit emery paper, and sanded both sides of the points, while putting a little pressure on them with a Q-tip.
After sanding the points, I put the gage face back on and read all the omhs again.
here what I got now.
A to S=20.8 ohms
I to S= 20.8 ohms
I to housing=50.8 ohms
A to housing=50.7-8 0hms
S to housing =71.6 ohms
before I sanded the little points, I had all those readings, but none at all on "I".
So what I was wondering, are those readings good. I have the 66 Fac service manual, but it dosn't mention any values for checking voltage limiter. It mentions the tool #C-3826, for checking individual gages.
Thanks barracudadave67
Most do drill out a rivet ( or 3 ) and replace with small screws. No need to detail another method here/now.
I dont see a problem with your report, although I don't understand your question... I to what? "Nothing" as in zero or infinite?
The slither of metal on the back of your gauge is tin or brass ( I forget which they used in each model ). Limiter operation depends on it and every other member in a daisy chain of chassis ground contacts. The gauge backboard shrinks and warps with age, the speedy nuts loosen, the threaded posts rust. All degrading the current paths.
Some might replace the speedy nuts with internal toothed washers and standard 10-32 hex nuts.
There is a lot more contact from that type nut and washer but... I've found a few of those studs threads so far out of tolerance that a standard nut didn't fit. Anyhow...
At reinstall, check for no resistance between gauge can and inst' housing. To add a ground wire from housing to chassis can be beneficial.
No resistance between circuit board connector pins and threaded posts.
What we know about that original limiter... Its age. Its still alive and "looks" good today. So run it until it dies knowing there is a repair solution ( solid state regulator add on ) when needed.
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RedFish
Thanks.
Yes the metal sliver on the back is brass.
To answer you question on the "I" post, I was getting "0" on the ohm gage, before I ran the 2000 grit oxide paper thru the points, after sanding, is when I got the readings on the "I" post to ground (housing) and other terminals. Terminals "A" ,and "S" were ok.
Thanks for the input , in this post. Your input makes the Fac service manual make more sense to me know that I know what the different terminals are for. It will be easier to bench check it, with a good battery.
Dave
Thanks.
Yes the metal sliver on the back is brass.
To answer you question on the "I" post, I was getting "0" on the ohm gage, before I ran the 2000 grit oxide paper thru the points, after sanding, is when I got the readings on the "I" post to ground (housing) and other terminals. Terminals "A" ,and "S" were ok.
Thanks for the input , in this post. Your input makes the Fac service manual make more sense to me know that I know what the different terminals are for. It will be easier to bench check it, with a good battery.
Dave
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Nice work.
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