BillyBob0780
Well-Known Member
Jeeze... I ve bought two new oil switches neither puts the light on. As soon as the wire is earthed light comes on.... am I missing something stupid ?
Cluster Woes
- Thread starter BillyBob0780
- Start date
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Maybe the switch is "normally open" ? So when its grounded/earth and, that closes the circuit and it lights up? I like mechanical psi gauges myself.
Oil pressure opens the switch, lamp goes off. I don't know why a new switch doesn't work. You sure its the right switch? A sender for a oil gauge wouldn't work. Too much teflon tape on the threads could break the ground path.
BillyBob0780
Well-Known Member
Well I bought two and heeded the warnings regarding tape. Its a mystery as I cant see two switches being faulty
cudamark
Well-Known Member
An ohmmeter on the new switches will tell whether they're bad or not. Attach one lead to the terminal and the other to the body of the sender. You should be getting virtually no resistance on the meter. (A reading like connecting the leads together)
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BillyBob0780
Well-Known Member
Oil light now working Dodgy spade connector..
Direction light ongoing
Direction light ongoing
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
EDIT: LOLOL Did not see your last post
Maybe an easier/ more understandable way to troubleshoot this would be a 12V test lamp
With a sender installed, clip the test lamp to the battery POS (or starter relay "big stud") Test that this works by stabbing the probe onto the engine block. Should light
Now stab the probe onto the sender terminal, with vehicle wire disconnected. Light should come on. Now go start engine and re-check---light should go off
If this all works, the trouble is somewhere in the wiring. Think of this stuff as and END TO END system
The path is ground-------through the sender-------out the sender terminal----------to the wire terminal---------------through sender wire to the bulkhead connector-----------into the interior---------to the cluster PC board connector---------through the pin to the traces---------to the light socket--------through socket to bulb----------through bulb----------back out socket back to board trace----------and board trace goes to a "key on" ignition power source on the board to light the lamp
This is all like a chain. One break anywhere will stop operation
Maybe an easier/ more understandable way to troubleshoot this would be a 12V test lamp
With a sender installed, clip the test lamp to the battery POS (or starter relay "big stud") Test that this works by stabbing the probe onto the engine block. Should light
Now stab the probe onto the sender terminal, with vehicle wire disconnected. Light should come on. Now go start engine and re-check---light should go off
If this all works, the trouble is somewhere in the wiring. Think of this stuff as and END TO END system
The path is ground-------through the sender-------out the sender terminal----------to the wire terminal---------------through sender wire to the bulkhead connector-----------into the interior---------to the cluster PC board connector---------through the pin to the traces---------to the light socket--------through socket to bulb----------through bulb----------back out socket back to board trace----------and board trace goes to a "key on" ignition power source on the board to light the lamp
This is all like a chain. One break anywhere will stop operation
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