clutch fan too close for 3 row radiator on 360 engine

-

cudajim

cudajim
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
Messages
1,486
Reaction score
102
Location
Grass Valley, Ca.
My 360 stock engine in the 67 Barracuda was running hot with at 2 core aluminum radiator so I decided to go with a 3 core Champion aluminum unit. Problem now is that the 7 blade fan with clutch won't fit, it's only got about 1/8" clearance. Is there another clutch available that's shorter? I'll need a part number too.
 
From a previous thread.. It was determined 1/2" clearance is adequate on another thread..

I went out to the car and took the fan clutch off the car. I was then able to get a exact measurement from the front of the pulley to the radiator. 3-1/8". The Jag clutch is 2.67" that only leaves me with .455" between that clutch and the radiator. I still fear that, that is still to little of room.


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=270324&highlight=clutch

hope it helps
 
My 360 stock engine in the 67 Barracuda was running hot with at 2 core aluminum radiator so I decided to go with a 3 core Champion aluminum unit. Problem now is that the 7 blade fan with clutch won't fit, it's only got about 1/8" clearance. Is there another clutch available that's shorter? I'll need a part number too.

Sounds like they sold you the wrong radiator. I have a 4 row high efficiency US Radiator and have plenty of room. Probably too much. I need to make a custom shroud too as this is a 22" '68 a-body with a 5.9 Magnum in it. The hose is on the wrong side on one of the tanks. I forget which one now.

Give Champion a call, explain your problem, send them a picture and request they correct the issue on your application.

Or, is there any way to trim the mounting flanges off the radiator, make your own that position the radiator deeper into the front radiator opening?

I don't have the part number for the shorter fan or water pump shaft mounting plate, sorry, but I have heard there are shorter versions. You may also be able to gain some extra clearance by machining a bit off both mounting surfaces of the water pump pulley face and the clutch fan mounting surface. Just don't over do and you won't significantly reduce either's strength.

Are you running a shroud? If not, you should make one or buy one from the radiator manufacturer. It makes a HUGE difference. Just seal it up good and make sure it doesn't leak around the edges when mounted. I will be adding one when I install the new motor, mostly because I am going to put an A/C condenser and I already have a trans cooler in front of it.

BTW: it has never run hot even when being flogged at Willow Springs in 100 degree weather, or while sitting in LA traffic during Spring Fling. I love US Radiator!!!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3574 (Large).jpg
    40.8 KB · Views: 365
hear is the number for the shorter clutch. Hayden 2765. I recommend rock auto

The Hayden 2765 looks good, I ordered one from Oriellys auto parts. (it was cheaper than Rock Auto by the time I pay for shipping) It'll be here later today. I'll let you all know if it works and if the 3-row radiator works too.
 
Alright, so I got the new clutch installed for the fan and it works great. I have about an inch of clearance between the fan and the 3-core radiator. The problem is it's still running way too hot. I can't even take it for a test drive, I don't get it. It's a stock 360 engine with a new Champion 3 core radiator. I've tried 3 different thermostats and no thermostat.. all run hot. I even checked all thermostats in a pan of boiling water, they all open just fine at the proper temperature. All hoses are new too and it appears I am getting good flow. The system is holding pressure just fine too. I'm out of ideas and I need help.
 
Plugged heater core?

When was the last time you flushed the coolant system?

I'm getting ready to do a 3 core radiator install in my 64 and I preemptively ordered the jag clutch.
 
when does it get hot. do you have a fan shroud. hood to radiator rubber. those two are must have items.
 
I have a new heater core, I'm doubting that would make a difference though, the lower hose is not collapsing, I have lots of fan, no shroud though. I know it's really getting hot cause it's sizzling, has really high pressure and I'm using the same gauge and sensor from the 273 this engine replaces. It's not just getting warm, it's got the gauge all the way to hot just before it boils over. It does not come down when driving down the road either. WTF?
 
Put a heater hose flush kit on the highest point of the cooling system. It's usually the heater hose that is at the highest point of the cooling system. Make sure your thermostat has a n 1/8 hole drilled in it. Turn the heater on., and make sure you have the lines hooked up correctly to your heater core.

Leave the radiator cap off, crack open the heater hose flush fitting when its started from cold and leave it open until the thermostat opens and you feel the top of the radiator getting warm, and only water/coolant is coming out. Put the cap on and seal up the heater hose flush fitting. That will ensure that you don't have an air pocket in your system.

You have to put a shroud on the car. You should be able to run one of the factory style shrouds, and can pick one up in a lot of places. In my case, I have to make my own shroud, because I have a 5.9 magnum with an otherwise stock looking 22 inch 4-core. One of the hoses is on the opposite side from an LA 360 block. I forget if it's the top or bottom one without looking it up.
 
I've never heard of or knew that the heater core has to be hooked up a certain way. Not doubting you, I have just never heard that.
 
-
Back
Top