Clutch fork and Z bar issue

[Duster360LA]

My 74 Duster project has hit a clutch linkage snag. I have a 360 with a Tremec TKX and the standard 12+ inch clutch fork blocks the adapter pipe from my TTI shorties. I know they have a 10 5/8" fork for small blocks that would solve my problem, but it will put a pretty severe angle (about 30 degrees) on my clutch adjustment rod. I currently have the stock 7-inch z bar and have room to fit an 8-inch bar in to help move the lower arm over toward the trans and greatly reduce the angle. I may still have to relocate the lower arm on the z bar to help resolve the problem.
I haven't found an 8-inch z bar - does anyone know if they made such an animal? I could cut down an 10-inch z bar, but I would prefer not to.
Thanks

 

[jeff alder]

z-bar length question

 

[Duster360LA]

Thanks, I'll look for an A body slant 6 z bar to see if that will solve my issue.

 

[jeff alder]

Thanks, I'll look for an A body slant 6 z bar to see if that will solve my issue.

yes sir. I hope that helps and you don't have to cut and reweld anything. Good luck with your project!

 

[Inertia]

It kinda looks like you may need to modify the z bar to similar as the long tube headers .
Be sure to "clock" the lever correctly when rewelding, or adjustment may be limited.
Good luck.

 

[Duster360LA]

Appreciate the help!

 

[Dan Brewer]

Thanks, I'll look for an A body slant 6 z bar to see if that will solve my issue.

It won't. The only difference is the length of the tube. Arms are in the same place, the tube is just 1.0" longer on the bellhousing side.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Dan is right. So cut and re weld the arm on the rod/fork side over about half inch, or buy the modified version. Its required when using the tti full length step headers.. and apparently the shorties too, unless yoy could get a slight bend in the pipe below the z bar.

 

[Duster360LA]

Thank for this information everyone. It looks like the modified z bar has an inward twist on the lower arm that would reduce the angle between the clutch adjustment rod and the fork. If that is the case, that may resolve the problem. I'll let you know!

 

[Duster360LA]

Well, after talking to Dan about my unique mechanical clutch linkage issues (combination of Tremec TKX and shortie headers) I am giving up and going to a hydraulic clutch. Probably should have done that from the start.
So I wanted to ask what people's experiences were with installing hydraulic systems on a TKX and which systems are the best (and which should be avoided). Thanks in advance!

 

[Inertia]

(The S-10 clutch master worked for us)
Son just did tremac behind LS, with hydraulic clutch. Slave throw-out bearing leaked cuz bell wasn't square, so check runout .

Good luck

 

[Duster360LA]

I got my Malwood clutch kit this week and spent most of Saturday putting the under dash components in. Malwood's video makes it look like a 30-minute job, but I realized they were showing the install with the clutch/brake assembly out of the car. I had heard there were issues with the parking brake cable when installing this unit - and I can confirm there are issues. The new bolt Malwood provides to secure the pedal is too long to go in without making a notch in the frame that the emergency brake cable is secured to (photos attached) and the E brake securing clip has to be loosened. Once that happens, the bolt slides in place. Additionally, the line that runs to the fluid reservoir has to be pointed toward the firewall as you put the pedal assembly in place, otherwise is bumps against the E brake rail and pulls the reservoir line out of the hydraulic piston.
Once I figured those things out, the unit went in okay. I will install the hydraulic throwout bearing this week and post any issues - as well as overall operation of the system.