clutch linkage ? - Hemi/BB - A-body

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ssaahemifan

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I have a 1.25" height difference between lower z-bar pivot and the clutch fork - A-body with a 2 piece Lakewood scattershield - all clutch parts are correct ( z-bar, brackets and fork) from Brewers

Z-bar is level in car and parallel to the frame - I have seen many BB A-body with the z-bars very crooked in the car - maybe this is why ?

I am thinking of just fabbing a z'd clutch adjustment rod - but thought I would ask here for advice first
 

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I would move the pivot location on the bellhousing to be more inline with the z bar. Making a dog leg shaft will not change the thrust of the rod pushing on an angle. Should not be hard to do, just make sure you do not change the depth of the fork in the bellhousing.
 
mischiefdart said:
I would move the pivot location on the bellhousing to be more inline with the z bar. Making a dog leg shaft will not change the thrust of the rod pushing on an angle. Should not be hard to do, just make sure you do not change the depth of the fork in the bellhousing.
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I was thinking the same thing...
 
mopar head said:
That angle changes when you depress the clutch pedal, it could rotate up to near level and that would be preferred position.
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There is only an inch or so of travel, so the angle doesn't change much.
 
"Z-bar is level in car and parallel to the frame - I have seen many BB A-body with the z-bars very crooked in the car - maybe this is why ?"

Chassis guide say's "torque shaft (z-bar) should be mounted straight across from frame to bellhousing in any view. "

So if it's not you need to adjust the bellhousing pivot to get it straight first.
 
Thanks guys - I can't change the pivot location on the bellhousing as the torque shaft is straight and level in the car now (as it should be)

The fork pivot bracket inside the bellhousing and the clutch fork are correct - purchased everything from brewers - not knocking there products at all

headed outside to fiddle with it somemore...

Just seems it should be corrected for optimal performance ?
 
Something definitely looks wrong with the fork pivot location. Not hard to relocate it if needed as it is only steel, not cast iron or aluminum. Sucks that it all needs to come back apart to do it.
 
I just looked at my z-bar for my 383-s barracuda and it actually tilts down towards the middle witch would make the situation even worse for you.
 
RKLEIN383 - Thank you for taking the time to look at the parts on your car

I appreciate it
 
I posted in the "other" site that the Hemi A-body's did have a different bracket, here is a picture.
 

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ssaahemifan said:
I have a 1.25" height difference between lower z-bar pivot and the clutch fork - A-body with a 2 piece Lakewood scattershield - all clutch parts are correct ( z-bar, brackets and fork) from Brewers

Z-bar is level in car and parallel to the frame - I have seen many BB A-body with the z-bars very crooked in the car - maybe this is why ?

I am thinking of just fabbing a z'd clutch adjustment rod - but thought I would ask here for advice first
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Hi, just wondering if you ever got to the solution on this one? Mine is likewise pulling on a bad angle.

Jim, 68 hemi dart clone
 
jpharley said:
....Mine is likewise pulling on a bad angle.....
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One could bolt a length of threaded rod from the frame side mount to determine the approximate needed location of the bell side pivot and work off that.
 
Daves69 said:
One could bolt a length of threaded rod from the frame side mount to determine the approximate needed location of the bell side pivot and work off that.
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Dave, I'm having trouble getting my clutch to fully disengage. If I watch the linkage as the pedal is depressed, the QT bell housing and even the motor torques. Brewer is sending a new fork but I really hate to pull everything...thinking about drilling a hole in the QT bell housing so that I can see what is going on in there.
 
A heavy loaded cover will tend to rock the assembly. What are you using in the set?

Make sure the clips are on the release bearing correctly and your fork is completely engaged on the pivot. Get a mirror on a stick and a light to look inside.

On the adjustment you want to "sneak up" on the release rather than have it adjusted too far in and try to back out.
 
Daves69 said:
A heavy loaded cover will tend to rock the assembly. What are you using in the set?

Make sure the clips are on the release bearing correctly and your fork is completely engaged on the pivot. Get a mirror on a stick and a light to look inside.

On the adjustment you want to "sneak up" on the release rather than have it adjusted too far in and try to back out.
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Dave, it is a Quick Time BH, a McLeod 10.5 inch Diaphragm clutch, Aluminum Flywheel, Passon built A-833. The Z bar, torque shaft is from TTI, and the Ball stud was modified as per TTI instructions. I have modified the pedal by lengthening the pin distance from 5 1/4 to 6 inch( As per article from Hot Rod found on this site ( it was all about power shifting...no where close to that problem yet!) Not confident in have the correct fork as I used the one that was said to be "correct" by someone I have now learned really has no clue.

I'll try the mirror and light trick ASAP.
 
I'm not real familiar on the diaphragms. More into the dwindling B&B stuff. But the mechanics up to it is pretty much the same. Go through each component to eliminate slop, and try to get things lined up as straight as possible. I like to run a very slight slant down to the bell with the Z.
Most folks here are very into the diaphragms. I know Yellow Rose has the scoop on the max size hole allowed in the bell if you drill and intend to race.
Mine is the 3 piece Lakewood. Makes it much easier to dick with, but then I'm no racer these days.

A mini camera that plugs into your cell phone add was running around a while back. Much smaller than my old one with a flex shaft. Cost me about 14 bucks but you had to wait a couple weeks from China. Tape one on a coat hanger to control it. Works pretty good for the cost.

MiniEndoscope2.gif
 
Daves69 said:
I'm not real familiar on the diaphragms. More into the dwindling B&B stuff. But the mechanics up to it is pretty much the same. Go through each component to eliminate slop, and try to get things lined up as straight as possible. I like to run a very slight slant down to the bell with the Z.
Most folks here are very into the diaphragms. I know Yellow Rose has the scoop on the max size hole allowed in the bell if you drill and intend to race.
Mine is the 3 piece Lakewood. Makes it much easier to dick with, but then I'm no racer these days.

A mini camera that plugs into your cell phone add was running around a while back. Much smaller than my old one with a flex shaft. Cost me about 14 bucks but you had to wait a couple weeks from China. Tape one on a coat hanger to control it. Works pretty good for the cost.

View attachment 1715093791
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Just ordered a new one by BlueFire off Amazon. Be here Monday. Thanks for that lead!
 
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