So do mine, with one spring correctly attached.
Clutch pedal return ??
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So do mine, with one spring correctly attached.
Here you go. Right out of the 1973 FSM. One spring, NOT hooked to the bell crank.
Just like the hundred I’ve seen.
70-71 FPM
Shows a spring between arm and crank, so naner naner.
Shows a spring between arm and crank, so naner naner.
Then go with what works for you.
Where does it show the spring hooked to the bell crank? The pictures I posted are CLEAR.
Do what you want but you don’t need two springs if you hook one up correctly.
Then what is the other spring that is shown for?
When you push down the pedal how much play is in your pedal and linkage before the arm starts moving?
We are looking at two different drawings because I see ONE spring.
Move on. Nothing will change your mind.
ZERO. WTF? Do you think I’m stupid? I don’t put up with junk **** like that. My **** works. WithONE SPRING like the FSM shows.
Well if your just going to get all pissed off then I'm done with you. All I did was ask a question.
My bell crank has a spring hole so I used it.
My bell crank has a spring hole so I used it.
Look again. 2 springs in my pic.
Im not pissed. Draw on your picture the TWO SPRINGS.
I don’t even see two springs labeled in the drawing.
Ok. I see the second spring. Is that an Ebody or something.
Because the second spring, if it hooks to the clutch fork what does it hook to on the other end.
That is a **** drawing.
Edit: explain how the second spring, which is on the other side of the clutch fork isnt pulling in the opposite direction of the other spring.
There are no direction lines I can see. Just garbage.
Because the second spring, if it hooks to the clutch fork what does it hook to on the other end.
That is a **** drawing.
Edit: explain how the second spring, which is on the other side of the clutch fork isnt pulling in the opposite direction of the other spring.
There are no direction lines I can see. Just garbage.
Looking at this picture begs the question of how your springs are following the picture you posted? It doesn’t because the picture shows the spring on the other side of the bell crank and on the opposite side of the clutch fork.
You have to explain that. And then explain what happens if you remove the second spring.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
IMO, reread the first sentence in post #3. Work off that.
The .060" below is not gospel.
The clutch peddle OVER CENTER spring under the dash works in both directions.
First, it assists in peddle effort to help your leg release all pressure plate load on the disc.
Secondly. once the peddle reaches its over center position it pulls the peddle up to is stop.
You can prove this when you "toe up" the peddle and it stays up. And pushing the peddle down past center and it doesn't return.
How I see it, a B&B PP spring load on the fingers should pretty much be enough to hit OC position on the pedal itself. The fork spring keeps the release bearing pulled back off the PP fingers in pedal up position and also provides tension on the adjust rod components to maintain adjustment. The correct washer has a recess for the nut to fit in and a nub/flat in the ID to close up one section of the FLEX type locknut onto the flat of the adjust rod. The fork spring might assist the peddle up slightly, but stock replacements are surely no match to overcome an OC spring.
Out of the box...
FWIW, If the Lakewood bell itself is 7.380" (stock bell length) and a 3/16" block plate is added, the pivot may be 3/16" further rearward if the Lakewood doesn't compensate for it.
If the pivot is moved rearward, you'll need to adjust the clutch adjust further out to compensate. This also causes more angle on the fork when depressed since the pivot point is further away from the fingers. In turn this can increase the potential for a bearing retainer clip to twist out of one fork tip cup and a fork tip to twist off one pad of the release bearing.
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