cobbled brake system

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grjammer

grjammer

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Ok, I have rebuilt/replaced entire a body brake systems. no sweat. This one on my newest car (69 cuda), is very different.
I have not even had the car on stands yet but wonder what is going on with the assembly and maybe some guru here can tell me if its either Junk or jewels.
Prior owner told me this. C body front brakes, jeep wagoneer calipers on back. (8.75) dual disc master of some type. Unknown prop valve type. He never mentioned the adjustable valve in the brake line going to the rear which seems to do nothing. car stops "ok". Power brakes, pedal bleeds down fast to floor, red brake light comes on. fluid ok, haven't tried to bleed. doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak. engine stays at around 13". Prior owner told me it was an alternator light..lol..I can/t wait to tear into it this winter. but having fun driving this one.

Anyone seen these kind of mods? I have a new prop valve from another project just sitting here. and wondering if I should just remove the adjustable valve.
 
Are you joking? Did I understand you to say it bleeds all the way to the floor eventually?! Do not drive the car if this! If this is true. You got a wheel cylinder leak or something? Bleeding to the floor is dangerous.
 
lol, yes it goes to the floor but doesn't leak fluid, It may be just a bad booster. It holds while at a stop.
 
Weather or not the booster has issues will not cause the brake warning light to come on. The light is grounded through the switch in the splitter or proportioning valve, is it sounds like you have an issue. I wouldn't drive it until it is resolved.
 
Peddle going to the floor; manual, or power; no leaks dribbling fluid, is a bad master cylinder; change it out now before you loose brakes entirely: quick question: does the peddle pump up and hold?........."C" body disks up front is an inexpensive, maximum braking up grade, a little heavy, but cheaper than Wildwoods, parts are common in any auto parts store..........don't know about Jeep disks on an 8 3/4, would think that would have had to convert to "Green" axle bearings to eliminate movement of axles in and out, OR (it just struck me) MAYBE, housing wasn't converted to "Green" brgs and axial float is pushing puck back into caliper, causing excessive clearance, and is the reason you have so much peddle travel......the adjustable prop valve is not a bad idea, nor a bad thing in your braking system, if you are not experiencing rear wheel lock up during braking, it's doing it's job
 
pics of prop/dist valve and master, etc. could help ID.

pedal to floor with no loss of fluid = bad master
 
Bad master meaning,With the vehicle stopped and engine idling;
A)if the system pumps up hard with multiple stroking, then drops; fluid is leaking past the piston seal and returning to the reservoir. A kit may cure this if the bore is usable, Or
B) if the system does not pump up hard, with multiple stroking, first prove the pushrod is allowing the pistons to return to the parked position, so the Compensating port can work.Then make sure there are pads in the rear calipers,lol. But
C) you can do all that and prove the MC is leaking internally, by process of elimination, or you can just rebuild/replace the master, and hope everybody, me included, is right,lol. .
 
Thanks, I wondered about transfer of fluid being the issue and understand how the master would allow it if it were defective. It does have hard pedal, stops ok, will lock up fronts anyway then maybe 10-15 seconds it mushes to the bottom.
I think I will put it up on stands next weekend and tear it down. I will post pics. The rear is lowered with 3 " blocks and has what looks like SS springs. 7 leaves. Guess he didn't like the classic stance. It has a sway bar on the rear as well. I doubt there is any axle float, but will look. I really haven't a clue how its put together yet. lol
What master would give me best response with easy pedal and be made for disc/disc power system?
 
I like the feel of the 15/16 but cannot say if it will move enough fluid to properly activate the rear brakes. Others will chime in.
The 15/16 takes a bit more pedal travel than some like, but because of that, it is easy to modulate. The travel is not excessive, and the pedal never gets near the floor even when you hammer them on. And it's easy to set the line-loc just where you like it.
 
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