color sanding single stage

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Darren

Darren

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hey guys i just painted my engine bay on my 68 cuda, i used PPG single stage. i have some orange peel. i am not a painter i just thought i would try it. i dont know why the peel, i think maybe i did not spray thick enough. how long should i wait? and any tips and what products do i need for color sanding single stage t?hanks
 
yea wait 24 hrs and use 1000 grit wet sand and buff or 600 grit wet sand and reshoot and thin paint by 10%
 
If there is any metallic in the paint I would not try to sand and buff. Also unless you put on... Maybe 3 coats, you might not have enough film build to sand and buff. For easier buffing step up to 1500 grit after the initial sanding.
 
it is a non metalluc color (GG1) Iam pretty sure i got 3 coats but in a few spots tit seems to be a bit dry. is it best to wet sand by hand or DA? thanks
 
here is a pic.
 

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Without you having experience da-ing, I'd say do it by hand with a stiff block to avoid going through on an edge or putting in grooves from finger pressure.

Also no shame in scuffing it and trying to put on a smooth coat. If it came out peely this time, just be a bit more aggressive. Make sure you have plenty of light and watch the finish as you spray. If it looks like too much texture spray lightly over that area again. Just remember to be conservative when trying to get it to slick out, so you don't end up running it. On the other hand being too conservative might be how you ended up with the texture. Good luck, and remember no one will be as critical of your work as you will, it's ok if it's not perfect.
 
it is hard to tell in the pic. but in my garage under the lights it does not look to good. but the hood is off so when it is on it might hide it a bit more.
 
Just saw your pic, upper flat surfaces look good. It'll be hard to get the verticals right if the engine is in as it looks, hard to get the gun in there and make the paint lay down.
 
i got a bit wrench happy and pulled an allnighter and stuffed the engine in allready so i think an respray is out of the question for now.
 
Darren said:
i got a bit wrench happy and pulled an allnighter and stuffed the engine in allready so i think an respray is out of the question for now.
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I'm at the same point myself. I just sprayed the same thing on my '79 Dodge Magnum in Spinnaker White (EW1) It has a couple of drips/runs and the orange peel is medium I guess you'd call it. Not terrible. It's the first time I used a gun and paint. It's good enough. It's the engine bay, seldom seen and my first time.

Next time around, (the other body panels) I'll have a little more help from the neighbor kid that helped me a little this time as well. He works in a body shop. So he has a leg up on knowledge on me. A big help when the gun clogged up! LMAO!

I'm a bit short on time so the engine went in. (360 Magnum)
That's the star of the engine bay, not really the paint. It's all one color and fresh and even, so it doesn't really get looked at like the outside of the car.

Good luck with the project!
 
68383GTS said:
umm GG1 is metallic...
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i was confused about the mettalic. on the can is said solid. but when i sprayed it it did seam mettalic.
So now know it is meetallic. is it a good idea to color sand and buff? thanks
 
A large part of the problem is in todays auto paints. They have so much additive, UV protectant, flex agents, along with the bonding agents. Do this, Walk every new car lot in your town and try to find a factory paint that doesn't have some orange peel.
I think it was the TV show called Motor Week that determined Toyota has the slickest paint.
These factors and the EPA wanting all mfgrs to switch to water bourn paints is why the textured flat paints are becoming more common. Most of us will never learn to love that finish but the next generation will / already is.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I'm at the same point myself. I just sprayed the same thing on my '79 Dodge Magnum in Spinnaker White (EW1) It has a couple of drips/runs and the orange peel is medium I guess you'd call it. Not terrible. It's the first time I used a gun and paint. It's good enough. It's the engine bay, seldom seen and my first time.

Next time around, (the other body panels) I'll have a little more help from the neighbor kid that helped me a little this time as well. He works in a body shop. So he has a leg up on knowledge on me. A big help when the gun clogged up! LMAO!

I'm a bit short on time so the engine went in. (360 Magnum)
That's the star of the engine bay, not really the paint. It's all one color and fresh and even, so it doesn't really get looked at like the outside of the car.

Good luck with the project!
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thanks for the advise. maybe once i get the hood on it will hide abit more lol
 
Darren said:
i was confused about the mettalic. on the can is said solid. but when i sprayed it it did seam mettalic.
So now know it is meetallic. is it a good idea to color sand and buff? thanks
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adiffrentcity If there is any metallic in the paint I would not try to sand and buff.
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The reason is metalic paint has little relective particles. The effect is created by the particles that lay on the surface of the paint. If you sand, the effect is gone or greatly diminished. Does not look good.
 
High end show cars tend to have a non-metallic base coat wet sanded to remove the waves and peel before clear coating. Unless you use a high flow base, problem with that is sags. It will lay and flow out like glass, but will take multiple sprays to get the film thickness you want. Once they are happy the base is good, then clear coat coat goes on. Wet sanding up to 2000 and maybe even 3000 grit. Then buff.
 
is there a compond i can buff to help? thanks
 
Not just one thing. There is a scratch/sand mark remover, then several polishers with less aggressive compounds. Sorta like sandpaper. Its more to it than you think.
 
would that mehod ruin the metalic
 
It's got metallic flakes so best to just leave it alone. A sand and buff will make it look BAD. As others have said, it's the engine bay, and IMO since the tops of the inner fenders look pretty good I wouldn't worry about the rest.
 
adiffrentcity said:
It's got metallic flakes so best to just leave it alone. A sand and buff will make it look BAD. As others have said, it's the engine bay, and IMO since the tops of the inner fenders look pretty good I wouldn't worry about the rest.
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what about just a buff using a light compond or somthing? thanks
 
You can buff it, but you have to be careful, DO NOT GET AGGRESSIVE. The metallic should be suspended throughout the paint, not just at the top. At least that has been my experience with them. You just need to be careful. Did I repeat myself? Can't say that enough, If you get to the metallic, you will ruin the effect, it will no longer reflect/shine but reflect in a gray. Not shiny, but gray. If you have any metal laying around and some extra paint, apply some paint to the metal and practice to get an idea of what you can do.
 
i have my test panel that i painted. the funny thing is the test panel looks great becuase i was not worried about it so i put it on thick. i will test on the panel first. what kind of compound do i need. thanks
 
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