Combo advise, help a new guy!

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replicaracer43

replicaracer43

Grumpy Old Man
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Hey this is my first post on here, but i have been reading posts on here for a long time. I think this is a great site! Need a little input into setting up 70 Duster for braket racing. Well actually, Its already a race car, but I want to go a diff direction with it. What I have in mind is a 4-speed small block, kinda old school. I know the auto is quicker, but I wanna have some fun!! I have a 360 shortblock, 11-1 comp, fully ballanced, aftermarket rods, oil system mods ect, left over from one of my oval track cars. I also have a compleat W-2 topend, new never ran. I think I will need an aftermarket blowproof belhousing, and a Mcloed sof-loc clutch? that has been recomended to me. A dana 60 with about 5.13 or 5.38 gears. The main question is about the cam. I am thinking solid roller, but I dont know how big it needs to be. The goal is to be able to run somewhere near 6.80 or so 1/8 mile. The car weighs 3050, and has SS springs, /6 torsion bars, it has run 7.50 with a 1.52 60 ft with a 360 and 727, 8 inch TA convertor. I welcome any input into this, let me know what you guys think. Thanks..
 
hi, few questions, does the block have the tube in right side oil galley for roller lifters to be used? solid roller cams require maintaince. and are hard on valve springs. a flat tappet solid cam will work better and lot easier on parts.
a lake wood bellhousing is required along with a race clutch/flywheel setup.
as for cam specs, a duration of 260/264 @ .050 and .550 or so lift on 108 lca will work quite well. for comparison, my 340 duster runs 7.23 =1/8 11.40's =1/4 mile. hyd cam, 262/265@ 050.460 on 106 lca. 5.57 gears, 9" tires. car weight is 3365 total. my friend has a 340 dartw/ auto 254/267 @ ,050, .540 solid tappet 4.88 gear, 11.31 @ 118 1/4 mile. just food for thought.
by the way, clutch has to be certified and recertified every 2 years, bellhousing, every 5 years.
 
Thanks for the response. No the block is not tubed, we had to use hyd cams for the round track. I was hoping that there were solid body lifters? I really dont like the idea of a non roller, to much chance for flat lobes I think. What about the heads? Can they get the job done without porting? Any other clutch recomendations?
 
hi, a roller cam setup is not cheap. heads have to be worked cut for triple springs. as for flat cams, they live quite well. and long time.for a comparison,
my friends cam has 3 yrs on it. no failures!! mine has been in use since 1996 with 1004 runs on it. it comes down to having the right oil in motor and taking care of things. my cam has very very aggressive lobes on it, it looks like a roller lobe. another , is stock type heads don't flow very much past .500 lift, a .+600 roller is not going to help much. the air in port will loose velocity and try to stall. lower lift will maintain max port velocity.
as for clutch, the mcloed soft lok is the best setup. other one would be a mcloed b&b/long pressure plate with a series 300 disc.
 
I wouldnt go roller without doing the lifter bore bushings, or tubing it. A flat tappet will do what you need, and is less $$ and maintenance
 
mopar has the best book out there small block engines an there chassis book take's alot of guess work out of your build's . they tell you all that you need to know except how much lol big inch small block is another good read hope this helps
 
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