Control arm measurements needed

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mike1965

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Hi guy's , I need the measurement of the upper and lower control arm's from a 67 dart A body from the center of the ball joint to the center of the bolt hole that bolts to the chassis.

Thanks Mike
 
Mine are a bit "buried." I'll see what it will take to get to 'em

The lower arms are all same length. Difference is in sway bar tab position

Actually I think the uppers are as well, other than larger ball joints
 
Hi guy's , I need the measurement of the upper and lower control arm's from a 67 dart A body from the center of the ball joint to the center of the bolt hole that bolts to the chassis.

Thanks Mike

Why?
If you have to identify control arms, lowers are stamped with the letters
VL, in the front side of the arm.
 
Why?
If you have to identify control arms, lowers are stamped with the letters
VL, in the front side of the arm.


I had a tubular K member made and tubular upper and lower control arms and I sold my original parts and what I want to do is make sure that he didn't screw up on them.
 
Mike I can get a few measurements for you or you can come by and measure for yourself if you are close to Brantford...Measurement might be ball park on the uppers I have no upper ball joints in the control arms
 
Off my '69 with drums as standard. Tape end at center of BJ. Does this help? Need more/better?
 

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Off my '69 with drums as standard. Tape end at center of BJ. Does this help? Need more/better?

Measuring the length of one of the arms might not get the OP what he needs. Tubular UCA's can have different length arms to improve the amount of caster available. And, are you still using torsion bars? Because if this is a coilover set up they won't be the same.

Which brings me to my next point, there's nothing that says the tubular arms, upper or lower, are "screwed up" if they aren't the same as the originals even for a car still using torsion bars. Obviously if the track width is made too wide or narrow it could cause problems with re-using your wheels if they were fit for the original set up. But most aftermarket disks change the track width anyway.

So, why are you checking? Are you having problems with the alignment?
 
Off my '69 with drums as standard. Tape end at center of BJ. Does this help? Need more/better?


Could you please measure from center of ball joint on the other side not off the stud and back from there to the middle of the 2 caster bolts.
 
Mike I can get a few measurements for you or you can come by and measure for yourself if you are close to Brantford...Measurement might be ball park on the uppers I have no upper ball joints in the control arms


I'm in Oshawa and don't get up to Brantford to often but if you can give me some measurements of the uppers and the lower.

Thanks
 
Measuring the length of one of the arms might not get the OP what he needs. Tubular UCA's can have different length arms to improve the amount of caster available. And, are you still using torsion bars? Because if this is a coilover set up they won't be the same.

Which brings me to my next point, there's nothing that says the tubular arms, upper or lower, are "screwed up" if they aren't the same as the originals even for a car still using torsion bars. Obviously if the track width is made too wide or narrow it could cause problems with re-using your wheels if they were fit for the original set up. But most aftermarket disks change the track width anyway.

So, why are you checking? Are you having problems with the alignment?



I just want to see what he has changed , when it was made I asked for the wheels to be moved in 1'' on each side and my tires hit my fenders and they never did with the stock parts.

And yes it is coil over.

I have to make a new K member the one that was built for me at a chassis shop is scary the lower control arm on the passenger side broke off at the end of last year so I don't feel to safe in the car anymore , I had them do it for me , at the time I had no shop do it my self but now I can make one .

I will post some pix of the crap he built me as soon as I take some pix ant to think the control arm broke off a week after I was at the track and ran 138 mph.
 
You had him shorten the control arms an inch? #-o

I truly hope this is a 1/4 mile car only. As in, the car is never taken on the streets for any reason whatsoever. Because just shortening the control arms an inch without regard to the suspension geometry is just, well, I can't even type anything on here that's appropriate.

Sounds like you need to talk to HemiDenny. K frame and suspension fabrication is not something to be taken lightly.

As for the original measurements, the LCA is 12.875" from the center of the torsion bar pivot to the center of the lower ball joint taper.
 
You had him shorten the control arms an inch? #-o

I truly hope this is a 1/4 mile car only. As in, the car is never taken on the streets for any reason whatsoever. Because just shortening the control arms an inch without regard to the suspension geometry is just, well, I can't even type anything on here that's appropriate.

Sounds like you need to talk to HemiDenny. K frame and suspension fabrication is not something to be taken lightly.

As for the original measurements, the LCA is 12.875" from the center of the torsion bar pivot to the center of the lower ball joint taper.


Thank you for the measurement would you happen to have the UCA measurement.

What I asked him for was to move the wheels in an inch and i'm not sure what he did so that's why I want the measurements to find out what's what .

The car drove great on the street and hwy. and went nice and straight at the track , it had no bad habit's , only bad part about it was the broken weld and the design of how the LCA mount was on to the K member , very not safe I will take pictures today and post them .
 
These help?............
 

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Nice junior , what did you end up with for rotor to rotor width where the wheels bolt on and do you no what stock would be.

Stock width, i don't know that measurement off the top of my head but this was made off a fixture from a stock k frame, my control arms are for coil overs but they are stock length as well. This works with the stock pivot pin so it accepts stock arms or an aftermarket coil over conversion.
 
Stock width, i don't know that measurement off the top of my head but this was made off a fixture from a stock k frame, my control arms are for coil overs but they are stock length as well. This works with the stock pivot pin so it accepts stock arms or an aftermarket coil over conversion.


I would like to be about 58'' face to face to get the wheels in a bit , do you no what your measures out to from hub face to hub face and are your wheels in more than stock.
 
I would like to be about 58'' face to face to get the wheels in a bit , do you no what your measures out to from hub face to hub face and are your wheels in more than stock.

Fyi, that can be affected by the type and brand of brakes you run, some can add as much as .75 per side and others can actually narrow it by .25 or more.
 
Fyi, that can be affected by the type and brand of brakes you run, some can add as much as .75 per side and others can actually narrow it by .25 or more.

Here's some pix of what I have , strange mustang 2 pro spindals , wildwood rotors and brakes
 

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Here's some pix of what I have , strange mustang 2 pro spindals , wildwood rotors and brakes

Which wilwood kit? They have several, all that affect track width
 
I would like to be about 58'' face to face to get the wheels in a bit , do you no what your measures out to from hub face to hub face and are your wheels in more than stock.

58" is exactly where the HDK is pre-assembled to...face to face, at ride height.

If moved closer, and the wider front tires start getting close to the frame rails at full lock.

Looks like a trick set-up.
Let me know if I can help....my phone number is on the website.

Denny
www.moparsuspension.com
 
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