Control freak suspension

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414 DUSTER

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Has anyone used control freak parallel 4 link coil over suspension. I liked the fact it welds to your factory frame rails and it's a 4 link. I'm having traction problem's and I thought maybe this could solve my problem. I can't seem to find anyone that used this suspension. If anyone has experience with it I would appreciate some feedback. 416 twin turbo about 1000 hp if tured up.
 
I am no help to your question but do you have any videos of this beautiful machine when your pushin on those turbos on the street .
 
I am no help to your question but do you have any videos of this beautiful machine when your pushin on those turbos on the street .
No sorry but it ran 10.08 at 134 with 10 psi boost and me peddling it .The car is sick.
 
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If you want that hot rod to hook up......better get it to the reputable chassis shop, otherwise (IMHO) you will continue to spin your wheels in more way than one.
 
If you want that hot rod to hook up......better get it to the reputable chassis shop, otherwise (IMHO) you will continue to spin your wheels in more way than one.
I'm in the process of mini tubbing it write now. I really wanted to use the control freak 4 link, but if I don't get any good feedback cal tracs . I hope this helps , looking for high 8.
 
above my expertise.....my advise for your car and horsepower is to do it right the first time with a professional. I could be wrong, but I was thinking the Control Freak set up was more of a show and go and not for any serious traction need.

I see a lot of HP....but also a lot of nose weight

good luck, that is one bad-*** ride.
 
above my expertise.....my advise for your car and horsepower is to do it right the first time with a professional. I could be wrong, but I was thinking the Control Freak set up was more of a show and go and not for any serious traction need.

I see a lot of HP....but also a lot of nose weight

good luck, that is one bad-*** ride.
Thanks , I know the nose weight doesn't help but that was the best place found to fit them . I will make this work, I built everything else. I love a challenge.
 
Gerst suspensions offers a 4 link set up. Other than that, if your already mini tubing it, why not use a generic 4 link or ladder bar set up?
 
There are people running 4.40's in the 1/8 on leaf springs and Caltrac's on 275/60 Drag Radials. With slicks it would be easier. Sounds like a lot of work for nothing to redo the rear setup.
 
There are people running 4.40's in the 1/8 on leaf springs and Caltrac's on 275/60 Drag Radials. With slicks it would be easier. Sounds like a lot of work for nothing to redo the rear setup.

I always forget about caltracs, some seriously fast cars on leafs.
 
I always forget about caltracs, some seriously fast cars on leafs.
Ya caltracs is the way to go. I'm trying to leave my floor and frame rails in. 4 link , I would have to chop the floor and ladder bars are a lot of work to get write. People are running in the 8 ' s with the caltracs systems. I like the control freak suspension but to much risk.
 
I have the triangulated control freak set up and Viking double adjustables, I don't have the HP/torque you have at only 550 from a port injected roller 408. but I also don't have the weight or bias you do (scaled at 2960 with 1500 even on the nose). with 2" per side narrowed rear and 325/50"s it hooks hard and straight, is extremely adjustable and they were great to deal with. The frame rail brackets are welded in but are inboard also. the only change I made was to make the lower axle bracket a little lower (1-1/2") for ride height. It works very well with the HDK set up. I use a 12" ride height shock with 4" stroke

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I have the triangulated control freak set up and Viking double adjustables, I don't have the HP/torque you have at only 550 from a port injected roller 408. but I also don't have the weight or bias you do (scaled at 2960 with 1500 even on the nose). with 2" per side narrowed rear and 325/50"s it hooks hard and straight, is extremely adjustable and they were great to deal with. The frame rail brackets are welded in but are inboard also. the only change I made was to make the lower axle bracket a little lower (1-1/2") for ride height. It works very well with the HDK set up. I use a 12" ride height shock with 4" stroke

View attachment 1714985662

View attachment 1714985663
Nice ride . Thanks for the input , I found some trends talking about the triangular 4 link. Lots of good things were said , but I was hoping for some feedback on parallel 4 link. Someone using it at the track. I thought someone would have tried it. I agree they are very nice to talk to .
 
Nice ride . Thanks for the input , I found some trends talking about the triangular 4 link. Lots of good things were said , but I was hoping for some feedback on parallel 4 link. Someone using it at the track. I thought someone would have tried it. I agree they are very nice to talk to .
I can tell you this.if you want a low stance and 3" exhaust out the back there will be issues clearing the upper shock mount and the shock body a
 
Nice ride . Thanks for the input , I found some trends talking about the triangular 4 link. Lots of good things were said , but I was hoping for some feedback on parallel 4 link. Someone using it at the track. I thought someone would have tried it. I agree they are very nice to talk to .

I can set the 4 bar in my Hemi Duster either as a parallel 4- bar or configured as a 4-bar / 36" bars w/ about a 5" instant center.

IMHO....the parallel is more of a street friendly set up....with the bars parallel, there is virtually no bind or pinion angle chage thru up/down rear movement.
On acceleration , the rear tends to sucks the car down.....I'm from the school for best launch, you do not want the rear sucking down...or raising / pushing up. You want the rear staying neutral and all energy moving the car forward. the parallel set up wil also roll thru a corner better......no bind. A plus for cornering.....no big deal on drag cars

Most triagulated 4-bars do a nice job of locating the rear end, but they do not have the advantage of a 4-bar with the correct instant center. The lower bars locate....the upper bars transfer /apply the energy to the frame.

I see a lot of parallel 4 -bars in street rods, hot rods with low to mid hp....but never in a competitive race car with 900 plus hp.

Mine falls into the "limited" street use (not daily driver) and after running both configurations, I opt to leave it in the 4-bar /non parallel package.
 
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I can set the 4 bar in my Hemi Duster either as a parallel 4- bar or configured as a 4-bar / 36" bars w/ about a 5" instant center.

IMHO....the parallel is more of a street friendly set up....with the bars parallel, there is virtually no bind or pinion angle chage thru up/down rear movement.
On acceleration , the rear tends to sucks the car down.....I'm from the school for best launch, you do not want the rear sucking down...or raising / pushing up. You want the rear staying neutral and all energy moving the car forward. the parallel set up wil also roll thru a corner better......no bind. A plus for cornering.....no big deal on drag cars

Most triagulated 4-bars do a nice job of locating the rear end, but they do not have the advantage of a 4-bar with the correct instant center. The lower bars locate....the upper bars transfer /apply the energy to the frame.

I see a lot of parallel 4 -bars in street rods, hot rods with low to mid hp....but never in a competitive race car with 900 plus hp.

Mine falls into the "limited" street use (not daily driver) and after running both configurations, I opt to leave it in the 4-bar /non parallel package.
Is it the control freak suspension? I didn't see that you could do both, it was parrallel or triangular. Most of your chassis cars and alot of rear clips are parrallel 4 link.
 
I designed it, built a jig out of plywood and L brackets (I just came across it moving stuff to my new shop) and had the guy that welds my K frame packages (Fog) tig it up for me.

there are pictures of it on the first few pages and thru out my HemiDuster build thread good picture on page 2, post 28
A-Bodies...Big Motors / New Hemi Duster - FINAL ASSEMBLY
 
Is it the control freak suspension? I didn't see that you could do both, it was parrallel or triangular. Most of your chassis cars and alot of rear clips are parrallel 4 link.

I see the confusion.....I do not run a triangulated 4-bar configuration.

I run the bars in a standard 4-bar / 4 link configuration ......in line with one another. The parallel refers to the plane of the bars....both upper and lower bars run parallel to one another....no instant center. (imaginary point where the upper and lower bars would intersect)

triangulated (in triangulated 4-bar) refers to the top bars (only) .....one from each side that basically make a triangle IF you added a imaginary line between the frame mounting points......the only function of this configuration is to keep the rear centered without utilizing a panard bar, watts link, or diagonal bar ...or some other centering device.....NOT maximum traction.

the configuration of the bars on a drag racing set up IS for maximum traction.....NOT to locate the rear.
 
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I designed it, built a jig out of plywood and L brackets (I just came across it moving stuff to my new shop) and had the guy that welds my K frame packages (Fog) tig it up for me.

there are pictures of it on the first few pages and thru out my HemiDuster build thread good picture on page 2, post 28
A-Bodies...Big Motors / New Hemi Duster - FINAL ASSEMBLY

I see the confusion.....I do not run a triangulated 4-bar configuration.

I run the bars in a standard 4-bar / 4 link configuration ......in line with one another. The parallel refers to the plane of the bars....both upper and lower bars run parallel to one another....no instant center. (imaginary point where the upper and lower bars would intersect)

triangulated (in triangulated 4-bar) refers to the top bars (only) .....one from each side that basically make a triangle IF you added a imaginary line between the frame mounting points......the only function of this configuration is to keep the rear centered without utilizing a panard bar, watts link, or diagonal bar ...or some other centering device.....NOT maximum traction.

the configuration of the bars on a drag racing set up IS for maximum traction.....NOT to locate the rear.
Nice build . I wish that I had the knowledge for a build like that. It's going to be a wild ride. That's the 4 link I need , but don't want to cut frame . I guess you can't have everything. I don't think you will have any problems hooking up.
 
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