Cooling issue, but this time it's to cold...

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Could we please see a pic of the thermostat housing, mounted on manifold, then with tstat housing off, a pic of thermostat fitment into the thermostat housing?

thnx
 
When you determine the exact cause of the "running cold" problem please let me know so I fix my car like yours and get my car to run colder!! I live in S. Texas and it's always hot and humid. I would like for my car to run colder.

thanks,
Treblig
 
I've had the car out four or five times since I got it back from Rick, it's got plenty of heat now. Seems maybe the timing being slightly retarded and carb lean could have been the issue because the problems gone.
 
I will say this about Sunpro gauges, they are junk from what I can tell, at least the cheap ones I bought to use temporarily. The temp gauge still never reads over 120 running and 150 after it's turned off. But the thermostat is operating correctly. The oil pressure gauge has tested low in readings too, so I would not trust Sunpro ever again.
 
PhillH said:
I've had the car out four or five times since I got it back from Rick, it's got plenty of heat now. Seems maybe the timing being slightly retarded and carb lean could have been the issue because the problems gone.
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Maybe you're just driving it more and a bit harder with the good help and the confidence that gives. Retarded and lean normally lead to being hotter, not cooler.

Time for a new gauge IMO to be sure. Here is why FWIW; engines are designed to be used in a certain temp range:
http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/cool3.html
 
I put some cardboard in front of the radiator if needed in the winter. Same concept that big rigs use when it's cold out.
 
Ok guys, I'm going to give you the info, do what you want with it, I cannot explain it...
So the whole time I had this engine from break-in, it's never overheated, it got hot enough to open the verified accurate thermostat but, my new Sunpro gauge was reading that it was only around 120 degrees, sometimes up to 150 degrees if I got on it or had it idling for a while. So if you read thru the thread again you'll see the issues here. I had thought that because I verified two different thermostats that the gauge had to be off, but I wasn't getting enough heat in a couple cold mornings to have hot air coming from the heater, it would get warm at a stoplight but soon as I started driving the gauge would drop to bottomed out at 100 degrees and I would lose any heat coming from the heater. Wierd right???
Today I did the install on the Champion three core radiator and contour electric fans. I don't have the controller yet so I hard wired them to the battery to test them. I started the engine, had the cap of the radiator and waited till the thermostat opened then turned on the fans. I ran the car for about a half hour varying the throttle trying to see if it was going to get to hot. It went to 180-185 and never varied from that. Go figure, same gauge, same thermostat, it went to proper temp and never budged.......
 
Absolutely nice and hot. Somewhere people were getting confused, maybe I wasn't making it clear, I thought I explained it before. The heater not making heat had nothing to do with the problem. I was explaining that the temp gauge going down with the temp in the engine also directly reflected in the output of the heater. Somewhere along the line people thought I was having an issue with the heater. Never the issue, it was only getting the heat that the engine was producing, not a failure of the heater core in the cabin. So now that the engine is getting up to temp, the heater is more than adequate.
Still wierd though how I couldn't get the engine up yo temp with 90 degree days here in Florida??? The mornings that were in the 50's I could not even get the heater to warm up unless at a stoplight.
 
If anybody wants a magic radiator, fan and clutch that will never let your car get too hot, I have one I'm not using.
 
PhillH said:
Absolutely nice and hot. So now that the engine is getting up to temp, the heater is more than adequate.
Still wierd though how I couldn't get the engine up yo temp with 90 degree days here in Florida??? The mornings that were in the 50's I could not even get the heater to warm up unless at a stoplight.
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I think the heater thing is clear, and it is an indicator that the coolant temps were indeed cold... at least at the top front of the intake....and now they are not. And now having hot heater heat likely says it is not just an electrical thing that made the gauges read wrong.

So how could the coolant be bypassing the t'stat and getting through the rad and water pump.....? Does that old rad flow ANY water now that it is out?

Is your temp sensor in the standard location, up on the passenger side front of the intake manifold?
 
The temp sensor that came on the gauge ( preassembled ) does not fit the location your referring to, it fits the port right by the thermostat housing on the Edelbrock manifold. I don't think flow was the problem unless it was too much flow. Guys all over are fighting overheating and here I was trying to get it hot enough, lol. Things I was worried about were hot and cold spots, the oil not getting up to 200 degrees and collecting condensation, and also trying to tune an engine that wasn't up to operating temp. Looks like those worries are over now thankfully. Now I can finally get the timing and carb dialed in properly.
 
OK, yes very unusual. I can only think that the T'stat was hung wide open by pressure and now it is not. Why....it'll probably remain a mystery.....although once I did finally figure out the reason for a mysterious piston scuffing incident 10 years after the fact.
 
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