Could my original wiring harness handle the load from this unit?

-
That is a REALLY loaded question. You are talking about a 50 year old wiring harness. What IS that in "dog years?" LOL

Start by reading this:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Here's the thing..........Even "Ma" knew there was problems, and the proof is in what is called "fleet police taxi" wiring. This was an option...possibly dealer installed....on optional 60-65A alternators, which ran the ammeter wires through grommets in the firewall, bypassing the bulkhead connector. If you jam around through some of the old factory service manuals, it is shown in there

So if you have not I would consider dumping your ammeter, OR AT LEAST bypassing the bulkhead connector.


However, the above is "more general" and not necessarily to do with your AC unit.

The fan motor on those doesn't draw any more than a heater motor, and the clutch in the compressor doesn't draw all that much either.
 
I agree that the AC setup shown won't require any alternator upgrades. In general, if your battery stays charged over a week of driving, your alternator is doing its job.

There are improvements you can make to your wiring that are always good. I added a 30 A relay on the ACC feed from the starter switch. I didn't cut any factory wires, just removed two 56 terminals from the plastic socket (little flat screwdriver), ran a jumper from +12V to the relay and used the switch ACC to actuate the relay, feeding the relay output onward as ACC. Only new wire was one to gnd for the relay coil.
 
The large wiring connector over the passenger valve cover has been burned and heat damaged on every A-body I've seen, so I wouldn't do anything to add a load to it.

Best idea is to bypass the portion of the charging circuit that runs inside the car so that you can add accessories like your AC and also use an alternator that's actually capable of charging at idle.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top