Countershaft Question

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sgaugian

sgaugian

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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I am at the point of removing my countershaft gear and arbor assembly out of my 833 4sp. Trans. The book says to drive the countershaft of of the case. My question is that the countershaft looks like it has a keeper holding it in on the side near the extension housing, so I stopped tapping on it to find out how to remove the shaft without messing something up. See pictures.
 

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If I had a nickel for every one o' them I put together with "just grease" (no arbor) I'd have a few nickels LMAO

If you "took away" a nickel for every time I dropped a roller before getting it all back in, I'd be "in the hole."
 
You have to drive that pin out from the front, so that the woodruff key falls out the back and onto the bench.Ive seen guys drive them out the front,which destroys the key, but the case and pin survived. A new key comes in the mopar small parts kit, and theyre available at the jobbers as well.
Same with the reverse pin; but Id leave that one alone. They can be a royal PITA to remove, and theres no reason to.
 
when you drive it out , use a piece of broom handle or wood dowel bout same diameter as shaft. it has to be same length as the cluster gear, this will keep needle bearings from falling out. will need it to install countershaft.
 
The reason to remove the reverse slider shaft is to change the o-ring. Weeping oil out of the pivot can be annoying. Yes it isn't easy with out making a reverse screw press.
 
perfacar said:
when you drive it out , use a piece of broom handle or wood dowel bout same diameter as shaft. it has to be same length as the cluster gear, this will keep needle bearings from falling out. will need it to install countershaft.
Click to expand...

If he puts anything like that in there he'll have to take the needles out to clean them anyway.

Best to just let em fall out, clean, dry and put them back in with grease to hold them in place during assy.

Don't loose any of them though. :)
 
Can't thank you all enough. I did get the shaft out and made sure all the oil was out so when all the bearing fell, they were trapped in case. Of course I counted them and came up perfect. I ordered a countershaft arbor from Brewers Performance so that I won't be playing pickup sticks putting it back together. Chignikred, thanks for the possible leak info, I will make sure that I replace the seal, did not think that one was a big deal. (now I know). Just some info Brewers Performance, they have customer service down, and the pricing is very reasonable.
 
AJ/FormS said:
You have to drive that pin out from the front, so that the woodruff key falls out the back and onto the bench.Ive seen guys drive them out the front,which destroys the key, but the case and pin survived. A new key comes in the mopar small parts kit, and theyre available at the jobbers as well.
Same with the reverse pin; but Id leave that one alone. They can be a royal PITA to remove, and theres no reason to.
Click to expand...

Reverse is the seal that leaks ? If any seal must be replaced it is the reverse shaft seal just mu .02
 
Well perhaps I was hasty. Its just that in the hundreds of those trannys I rebuilt There was never ever any evidence of that O-ring leaking. But then that was in the late 70s, and the trannys were "nearly new".
I have never used an arbor to hold those needles in. Grease works very well. Not vaseline, not lithium based. Good old gun grease. The needles come in the small parts kit from Ma.
 
I need to be reminded that its just gears and bearings, like me dad showed me back in 1978 when I worked with him to rebuild my last 833.
 
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