Coupler seperation

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The first time I took mine apart it was a royal PITA. When I rebuilt it I slathered up the I.D. of the coupler with anti seize so if I ever do have to take it apart again it shouldn't be rusted to the shaft.

Roll pin punches can usually be bought at NAPA fairly cheap and they are very handy. They have a centering nipple that keeps you from spreading the pin making it harder to get apart.
 
You'll have to take the column loose and back it out. I spose you could lay the steering wheel in the seat and work over the fender to rebuild the coupling. My back certainly wouldn't let me try that.

AdamR said:
You need to at least un bolt the column so you can pull it back.
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OOPs quoted the wrong post
 
73dart_swinger said:
Can you rebuild the coupler with the column and steering box still in the car?
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No. The coupler needs to be seperated and the easiest way to do that is remove the steering column. Pulling a column out isn't really hard. I can have the one in my car out in 15-20 minutes. Putting it back in is nearly impossible by yourself though since you have to align the coupler and slide the column through from the inside. I always get help for this.
 
I just said it could be done if you pull the column back, I didnt say I would do it that way, LOL.
 
I am reading about removing the column in the FSM. Is it necessary to remove the steering wheel and turn signal lever? It sounds to me like the are describing how to remove the shaft from the column. Can the column not be removed or at least pulled back as a complete unit?
 
The service manual will tel mechanics to remove the steening wheel and signal wand simply to protect them from damage on the work bench.Skipping these steps is your decision.
 
What methods have you guys used to press out the steering shaft to shoe pin? The column is still in the car and I doubt trying to hammer it out would be good for the steering shaft.
 
you use a roll pin removal tool. it looks like a drift but is straight and not tapered so it does not get stuck.
 
I leave that pin in place and just use new shoes. Ive never seen a worn pin and they are a real pain to remove.
 
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73dart_swinger said:
What methods have you guys used to press out the steering shaft to shoe pin? The column is still in the car and I doubt trying to hammer it out would be good for the steering shaft.
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I dont think you'll R&R that pin with the column in the car.
Remove engine. Raise vehicle on a suitable lift then lower it onto pre -positioned work bench and vise. Worling from a step ladder with 4 Lb. shop hammer....:sign5:
 
i did purchase one of the mopar springs to keep the darn coupler together.it was worth every penny i spent on it.
terry
 
If you have the correct size drift and the roll pin is not rusted in it comes out pretty easy and can be done over the fender. With the harness unplugged and the steering wheel on the seat (10 min.) you can have the coupler off in 12 minutes if all goes well. I've done it three times since my steering fun began almost two years ago.

The one thing to watch is if the roll pin does not come loose with minimal tapping, brace the box input shaft, or you may damage the input shaft seal. If you're pulling the box to r&r that too, then don't worry about it, you'll get a new one put on during the rebuild process.
 
Teery, you mean one of those spring clips that holds the grease seal on top down?

I noticed one thing that when I was trying to knock the drift pin out while the dang thing was in the car, it really helps to have your steering wheel locked. LOL
 
Just removed my column for painting, wasn't too bad a job.
I am going to replace the coupler shoes and spring, looking at the steering shaft the steering box end is able to move around inside the tube.
I have looked in my shop manual and can't see if there is supposed to be a bearing at the bottom end to prevent this.
Of course once it's all installed and connected to the steering box input again it can't move anyway.
Anybody know if there should be a lower bearing installed?
Thanks.
 
Just want to add something. There is a diamension you must have it's from the top of the coupler housing to the dimple on the steering column shaft (one of the pictures showes the dimple) this sets the slides in the proper position in the coupler housing. Thats why the steering column bracket has those plastic slides under the nut/washer.
 
Hey trouble, I can't keep that top metal thing on. It is a pain in the rear. Got a trick.
(I know, swing over and I'll show ya. Ha ha ha)
 
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