crank and rods for 340

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duster340

street racer
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looking at diferent cranks for my 340 that i want to build into a stroker, i know to stroke it using a 4 inch stroker crank i am going for a forged crank and new rods, any input on the quality of the eagle 4340steel stroker crank? i am also looking at eagle H-beam rods, eagle is easiest for mee to get over here thats why i havent looked at other companys.. any input on the quality is apreciated i want this bottomend to be as longlasting as possible
 
unless your going all out race with a major power adder i wouldnt use a forged crank because they snap where as a cast crank will flex a little. a cast crank is more than enough for a street & strip car but as for the rods they sound great
 
1qwikScamp said:
unless your going all out race with a major power adder i wouldnt use a forged crank because they snap where as a cast crank will flex a little. a cast crank is more than enough for a street & strip car but as for the rods they sound great
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well my plans are to keep the solid rollercam(268/272 degrees at 0.050lift) ,fullported J heads and stripdominator intake manifold until i can aford some real cylinderheads and then get a bigger cam and the goal is somewhere around 600horsepower and maybee some more power in a bottle ;) and yes i understand that that is some extreme power in a street smallblock
will a cast crank survive in a 600horsepower smallblock?
asking because i realy want a solid bottomend that wont let mee down in a long time

thanks for the answer on the rods, but im not realy sure about a cast crank
 
If you truely want to reach, and buy the parts to reach 600hp, you will need an MP block and someone's forged crank. At least if you want it to live for any great length of time as a street car. I dont believe that cam can go anywhere near 600hp either. Closer to 550 with decent heads on a 416.
 
moper said:
If you truely want to reach, and buy the parts to reach 600hp, you will need an MP block and someone's forged crank. At least if you want it to live for any great length of time as a street car. I dont believe that cam can go anywhere near 600hp either. Closer to 550 with decent heads on a 416.
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ok, will start looking at a new block to then, i also think this cam is to small to get 600 hp just thought i could keep it until i got some heads that could make use for a bigger cam the J heads i run now are the limiting factor already at 345cui i gues
i realy aprecieate all the info i can get on this since i think a 600hp 416 and maybe some nitrous is what it takes to make a streetduster tip into the 9´s
btw whats the limit for a fourbolt billet maincapd halfilled 340 factory block if the sonicsheck is ok?
thanks alot:)
 
1qwikScamp said:
i wouldnt use a forged crank because they snap where as a cast crank will flex a little. a cast crank is more than enough for a street & strip car but as for the rods they sound great
Click to expand...

Wow, are you way off!
Forged cranks are better because they DO handle flex and have a more stable grain structure, whereas a cast crank has a more random grain structure and is generally porous.

If you can afford it, I'd also go with a lightweight forged piston rather than cast or the (junk) Hyperuetectics.

Mark.
 
Here is my combination. I used a cast mp crank,eagle h beam rods,ross pistons,in a 340 block. The reason why i used a cast crank is i have one of the very first kits you could buy.I used edelbrock ported heads, holley strip dominator intke,roller cam. It made 582 horses@6700rpm and 544 lbs torque@6000rpm. I have 14-1 comp. In a 3000lbs duster with me in it i run1031@129mph. I have over 300 passes on it with no problems. The only thing i did was cross drilled the mains and gotthe crank nitrited hardened. A cast crank will live at 600 horse for a long time i have proof but again the only reason i used a cast crank was the forge was not out and and i wanted to try this combination out. If you have the money buy a forge one but a cast will work with mods.
 
hey duster harry, is your car strip only or does it see some regular street driving as well.

The recommended that I have seen in many tech articles in different Mopar magazines is; after 500-550hp higher end bottom parts(stout) are required such as the four bolt mains etc. I was also told I would need the 340 R or X block or the new MP siamese reproduction block if I wanted to put out 500 hp to the rear wheels. Which is approximately 600HP at the engine as the stock block would not hold. I plan to build a 340 stroker as well but I have a long ways to go on the car itself before I get to that stage. Hope this helps
 
Reguardless of which crank you go with I would have it cryogenically tempered if you really want it to last
 
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