Crank bolt to hold damper

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rumblefish360

rumblefish360

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This big bolt was a pain to take out. Probably because it was eating the threads inside the crank snout. Would anybody know if there is one longer than this 2-5/8 length crank bolt?

Yea, threads are destroyed inside as well, but, only as far as the bolt goes in. Perhaps tapping to the next size? Where to get the bolt?

59CF42D8-F052-49E8-88B3-9F895AAA75C0.jpeg
 
Get a piece of b7 threaded rod and thread it all the way into the good threads so it bottoms out. Then you can use a nut on the snout end.
 
72Dart6pack said:
This project is not going to end well. Just my thoughts.
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I agree.... but I figured I’d throw it out there. At work, the car guys, hold on, let me rephrase that. The REAL CAR GUYS, suggested a drill and tap to the next bolt size up, which could be metric. Not a big deal to me if it is metric. I’d like NOT to take the crank out but, I’ll probably not have that choice.
 
How are the threads in the crank? (except for the deep ones that match the tip of the bolt) If the crank threads are good inside as least as deep as the bolt is wide you can just cut the bad tip off the bolt, chamfer the edges so it screws in easily and run it. It looks like there's 16 or so threads to hold it in place. Plenty to do the job!
 
toolmanmike said:
How are the threads in the crank? (except for the deep ones that match the tip of the bolt)
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The good threads in the crank start deeper than the bolt goes in. All other threads are destroyed.

If the crank threads are good inside as least as deep as the bolt is wide you can just cut the bad tip off the bolt, chamfer the edges so it screws in easily and run it. It looks like there's 16 or so threads to hold it in place. Plenty to do the job!
Click to expand...
Nope, we’d a deeper bolt.
 
The next SAE is 7/8-14
Metric (3/4=18.3 mm)
20 is more than 3/4 and less than 7/8
22 is more than 7/8
Not much available in fine thread, coarse, yes.

McMaster has 3/4-16 2-3/4 and 3"


Alan
 
Next stop after dinner, McMaster, thanks.
 
I have a 273 crank if you decide to pull out the crank.It's forged and I believe it will interchange with the 318 crank
 
A suggestion: clean out the hole, get a thread CHASING tap, not a thread cutting tap ( try ARP ), chase the threads, get some thread restoring epoxy, follow the instructions, get a slightly longer bolt, torque it up.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I didn’t find one deeper than stock at ARP.
I only looked under the MoPar sections. Perhaps another brand has the same size but long? IDK, lots to go through there.
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Mancini has some replacements, but their site is acting up on the site map page...

This is the only one that I can pull up at this time...

I would call them to ask if they have one longer....

https://www.manciniracing.com/en426sthecrb.html
 
I caused this same situation on a short block I was screwing with. Crank bolt came out fine and I removed the balancer. I spun the bolt back in with no balancer and used a socket on the bolt to turn the crank over while checking everything else for clearances. Crank bolt then came out tight, binding. Looked exactly like yours.
Are you sure yours has clean usable threads down in there?
I set everything aside until I buy a tap to run in there. The threads looked fixable in mine, if I remember correctly, but I am pretty sure the deeper threads were incomplete due to the taper on the tap the factory used to thread it originally.
 
valiantwagonguy said:
I have a 273 crank if you decide to pull out the crank.It's forged and I believe it will interchange with the 318 crank
Click to expand...
Whoops C! Thanks but I forgot to mention it is a 360.
Thank you very much though!

JBurch said:
A suggestion: clean out the hole, get a thread CHASING tap, not a thread cutting tap ( try ARP ), chase the threads, get some thread restoring epoxy, follow the instructions, get a slightly longer bolt, torque it up.
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When I said destroyed...... I really mean it. See pictures below. In your opinion, do you think that it can be done?
krazykuda said:
Mancini has some replacements, but their site is acting up on the site map page...

This is the only one that I can pull up at this time...

I would call them to ask if they have one longer....

AMK Restoration Crankshaft Damper Bolt
Click to expand...
Thank man, I’ll check it out in a minute.
Bobzilla said:
I caused this same situation on a short block I was screwing with. Crank bolt came out fine and I removed the balancer. I spun the bolt back in with no balancer and used a socket on the bolt to turn the crank over while checking everything else for clearances. Crank bolt then came out tight, binding. Looked exactly like yours.
Are you sure yours has clean usable threads down in there?
I set everything aside until I buy a tap to run in there. The threads looked fixable in mine, if I remember correctly, but I am pretty sure the deeper threads were incomplete due to the taper on the tap the factory used to thread it originally.
Click to expand...
Hummmm, :rolleyes: pictures below. This, by the way is the second time this happened on this crank. The first time was about an inch and one half deep and the crank bolt was in the deeper threads by approximately 6-7 full turns.
72Dart6pack said:
JB weld is pretty tuff stuff.
:thumbsup:
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JB Weld the crank bolt in there?
That would be a permanent crank bolt installation?
:rofl:
Pictures below!!! I hope you can see inside OK.
(This makes screwing stuff together crappy, but such are the trail and tribulations of rushing on your car. It is upsetting and maddening! Nothing new right.....)

image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
LMAO, it’s worse than my naked eyes picked up on.
The bottom shot, I can see but a scant few threads left.
UGH!
 
if it was originally tapped with a taper tap, you can finish the last threads in the bottom of the crank snout hole with a bottoming tap. Go slowly, use thread cutting oil, suggest you use a real tap handle not a crescent wrench to drive the tap. DO NOT BREAK THE TAP IN THE HOLE, or you'll have a lot more problems to deal with. I think you can find a longer bolt on line. You can shorten a too long bolt, or use some gr8 washers in conjunction with the extra thick oem washer to use the full depth of the newly tapped threads, just don't bottom it out again.
 
A Tractor Supply might have fine all thread B7. If not Fastenal will or most general machine shops keep some fine thread all thread, they might sell you a piece.
 
Ordered one of each.Do t know if it’ll work, but I’m a goona find out.
Cuda Al said:
The next SAE is 7/8-14
Metric (3/4=18.3 mm)
20 is more than 3/4 and less than 7/8
22 is more than 7/8
Not much available in fine thread, coarse, yes.

McMaster has 3/4-16 2-3/4 and 3"


Alan
Click to expand...
 
Cast crank? Drilling and tapping to the next size up is really the only "right" way I see of doing it. Starting tap followed by a bottoming tap. It may be possible to pull the radiator and loosen and jack the engine up to give yourself enough room for a 1/2 inch drive drill with a reduced shank bit.
 
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