coloradohill
Well-Known Member
This is one I’ve been looking at also.
Thanks
Crankcase breather catch cans
- Thread starter coloradohill
- Start date
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Thanks
coloradohill
Well-Known Member
( No. I mean they are so restrictive)
Ok, I have TTI 1 7/8 full w2 headers and their x pipe 3 inch exhaust with the Dynomax mufflers.
I’m hoping they aren’t restrictive!
Ok, I have TTI 1 7/8 full w2 headers and their x pipe 3 inch exhaust with the Dynomax mufflers.
I’m hoping they aren’t restrictive!
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I seriously doubt that muffler would give you any issues.
That should be a very good muffler.
I know I'm a heretic, but on my Ecoboost Mustang, the PCV vents from the block, through a check valve and the catch can, to the intake. It keeps the intake valves from coking, a common problem on GDI Turbo engines. The catch can has a fine wire mesh screen on the out port. The oil vapors condense on the screen and drop to the bottom of the can. It works well. About 3 tablespoons are removed from the can at each oil change.
To be honest, I'm pleasantly surprised the Mopar only members didn't shred me for confessing my Mustang ownership. When my Nissan Frontier was totaled in my driveway in 2020, used car and truck prices were insane. I really wanted to buy a Challenger, Charger, or RAM truck to replace it. Even after 3 months of battle with my insurance company to get a decent price(After 37 years, FU SF) I couldn't find a reasonable Mopar replacement. Knowing we would soon be relocating from western Washington to central Florida, I looked for a retirement fun car for the move. I couldn't afford any of my favorites from Ma Mopar. I was blessed to find our 2017 Mustang Ecoboost Premium Convertible way under KBB. We bought it and shipped it south to our new home. Mopar didn't even make a convertible. Make no mistake, I love my 1970 Swinger 340 I've owned for 15 years. She's finally getting the full resto she deserves. She's family. Rob(yeah, Rumblefish) has seen her, and has been a great help. Kudos to my FABO family, from an old former Jarhead.
coloradohill
Well-Known Member
First, Thank you for your service.
Some have only Mopars, then there is the rest of us , a little of others mixed in.
Some have only Mopars, then there is the rest of us , a little of others mixed in.
champyfz450
Well-Known Member
Been using the Moroso for a few years now with -8 lines. Works good, I like it
coloradohill
Well-Known Member
So you are running just the catch can and no pcv or header evacuation ?
Thanks
famous bob
mopar misfit
A ssuming you meant -state farm , they tried for almost a year to screw me back when my pick up was stolen , I borrowed the $ from a family member and paid it off .
They thot they had me over a barrel because I was a working stiff and was making payments.
This after I had had state farm from the time I was 16 till I was 31 and never used them , but paid them on time for all those years.
NEVER AGAIN , F--- THEM !!!
champyfz450
Well-Known Member
Correct. I Drain the can every once in awhile but there’s usually not much in it
ValiantS
Well-Known Member
To expand of what has been said here...Crankcase pressure IS BAD. Crankcase vacuum is good. A good evac design will pull a little vacuum which helps ring seal, staves-off flutter, and reduces oil in the chamber. But, if in doubt that you have siphoning from a mufflered exhaust then just run breathers vented to atmosphere, if you want to use a catch can then mount it where it might drain back into the engine. Any compromises, I'd put it in a place it's easy to drain. You could get all scientific and put a guage on the ports that you'd consider hooking up to and monitor it over the range of use.
weedburner
Well-Known Member
I have actually used a single modified pcv valve as a crankcase vacuum source for over 10 years now. Street driven 355sbc that occasionally sees 8600rpm, but with a sealed crankcase that does not draw external air. Engine is sealed up pretty good, not much actual flow velocity to carry oil out of the engine. Currently don't use any catch tank between the engine and pcv valve. Used to have one, but experience showed that one was not needed in my application.
With a pcv valve drawing the vacuum with a sealed crankcase, I can tell you my crankcase vacuum does not drop to "0" instantly when you go full throttle. I have a log showing pcv supplied crankcase vacuum starting out at 12.6"Hg, then after 6.25sec of full throttle the crankcase still had 3"Hg left. Takes some time to draw it down.
So my question for you guys to ponder is, how long does one actually need the vacuum in a street/strip crankcase to last? If my car does mid 5's in the 1/8th, do I really need more than 3"Hg of vacuum after 6.25sec of WOT? How often am I going to use more than 6sec of WOT on the street? For me only if i'm testing on a backroad somewhere, don't need that much time to merge on a freeway or pass someone.
Another thing to ponder- the more overall crankcase volume your engine has, the longer it will take to draw pcv valve supplied crankcase vacuum down. Bigger oil pans can add volume, as can tall valve covers. There is also the option of adding external volume, such as oem plastic vacuum reservoirs. If you have a pretty serious car that requires a big catch tank for the breathers, that big catch tank itself could be configured to add crankcase volume by putting check valves inside the breathers.
My personal example is just a street/strip toy, but having lived in the 60s/70s I really like the gasser look. With no front bumper on my car, it's really screaming for a Moon style tank up front. But i'm also against adding something to my car that isn't functional. An extra fuel tank up front for a car that runs nitrous on pump gas isn't something I need or want. Don't need the extra weight of fuel up front, probably not the safest thing on the street either. What I've decided to justify the tank up front to myself is to use it as a catch tank for the crankcase. Plumb it to the valve covers with big hoses, and move my check valve breathers and pcv valve to the tank. A normally empty aluminum tank won't add much weight up front, but it will effectively add quite a bit more volume to my crankcase. Don't really need it, but to me the experimental aspect is enough to justify adding the tank
In my case I do not need a Wagner valve, a modified stock pcv valve works just fine.
Grant
With a pcv valve drawing the vacuum with a sealed crankcase, I can tell you my crankcase vacuum does not drop to "0" instantly when you go full throttle. I have a log showing pcv supplied crankcase vacuum starting out at 12.6"Hg, then after 6.25sec of full throttle the crankcase still had 3"Hg left. Takes some time to draw it down.
So my question for you guys to ponder is, how long does one actually need the vacuum in a street/strip crankcase to last? If my car does mid 5's in the 1/8th, do I really need more than 3"Hg of vacuum after 6.25sec of WOT? How often am I going to use more than 6sec of WOT on the street? For me only if i'm testing on a backroad somewhere, don't need that much time to merge on a freeway or pass someone.
Another thing to ponder- the more overall crankcase volume your engine has, the longer it will take to draw pcv valve supplied crankcase vacuum down. Bigger oil pans can add volume, as can tall valve covers. There is also the option of adding external volume, such as oem plastic vacuum reservoirs. If you have a pretty serious car that requires a big catch tank for the breathers, that big catch tank itself could be configured to add crankcase volume by putting check valves inside the breathers.
My personal example is just a street/strip toy, but having lived in the 60s/70s I really like the gasser look. With no front bumper on my car, it's really screaming for a Moon style tank up front. But i'm also against adding something to my car that isn't functional. An extra fuel tank up front for a car that runs nitrous on pump gas isn't something I need or want. Don't need the extra weight of fuel up front, probably not the safest thing on the street either. What I've decided to justify the tank up front to myself is to use it as a catch tank for the crankcase. Plumb it to the valve covers with big hoses, and move my check valve breathers and pcv valve to the tank. A normally empty aluminum tank won't add much weight up front, but it will effectively add quite a bit more volume to my crankcase. Don't really need it, but to me the experimental aspect is enough to justify adding the tank
In my case I do not need a Wagner valve, a modified stock pcv valve works just fine.
Grant
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