Cranking Issues in a 273.. is my battery toast?

-
Corbs

Corbs

Active Member
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
32
Reaction score
0
Location
Michigan
Ahhh, the feeling of getting in your car, turning the key, and CLICK. :banghead:

Here's the problem! I was driving the car all morning, just fine and dandy! I parked the car, shut it off, then half hour later decided to move it in the garage. I went to turn the key and nothing, just a click. Grabbed the multimeter and hooked it up. With nothing on, the battery was as 12.73. Turned the key to start and it dropped to about 3.82. :banghead::banghead:

I hooked my Saturn up to it to give it a jump and had a few weak cranks, then back to clicking and eventually not even clicking.

I am no electrician, but I'm assuming my battery is probably toast? I just wanted to confirm with the experts on here before I go buy a new battery. Because I am NOT pushing that thing uphill to the garage [-( !!!!

Thanks in advance!
 
Clean the battery terminals to rule that out. Can cause similar symptoms
 
First, where did you stick the voltmeter probes? Directly on the battery posts? Or on the clamps?

If you were on the battery posts directly, and the battery was that low "cranking," you only have two guesses:

The battery somehow became discharged, IE you have a load left on, or the charging system quit, or else the battery is bad
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I believe they were wedged in between the posts/ clamps. I'm not home right now or else I would do it again. What's the difference?
 
Well think about it. It's possible that a bad clamp connection is the entire trouble. Just one dirty clamp!!!!

So you............

Stab your meter onto the clamps and read, bleuazzzzch

You get lucky and move just one meter probe from the bad clamp to the battery post and now you get voltage...................

"Where did it go?"

Why in the bad connection in the clamp.

Couple years ago, my old Ranger had a bad ground cable. This cable goes from the battery ---to a "t" lug to the frame, and from there to the block. From the frame to the block, the cable was corroded inside the insulation. NADA. Would light the headlights just fine, but would not crank.

The point? don't assume anything, check everything.
 
What 67Dart273 said. My wife called me with the problem in our 69 Dart long ago. Since a few miles from work I drove over there. Measured ~4 V between the battery clamps while cranking (or trying). Put the multimeter leads right on the posts and measured 12.6 V cranking. Measured 8 V drop across the +terminal alone while cranking. Removed the terminal, cleaned off the white stuff (lead oxide), and it started fine. Made me a hero. One of our kids might have resulted from that success.

That was in Atlanta, where one needs to remove and clean the terminals every 2 years, so better every year in Michigan. Also spray red stuff on the terminals. Multimeters are free w/ coupon at Harbor Freight. Autozone and others will test your battery in the parking lot for free and even install a new one you buy, if needed, and they never tried to con me. Check first because last time I was in Walmart the cheapest car battery was almost $100.
 
If the voltage dropped like a hammer as you describe the battery is done. it shouldn't fall below 9.5 in 30 seconds of cranking amp draw.
 
I get it now. It just didn't click in my head (no pun intended). I'll clean the terminals and where the ground wire bolts to rule that out first. Then I'll come back with an update. I used to have a little wire terminal cleaner somewhere....
 
..........Well, lookee there.......... LOL

And THAT ladies and gents is why I so much dislike throwing parts at the problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top