curious about valve lash setting/check

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69_340_GTS said:
Both shafts on both heads will be oriented exactly the same. Just as there no "left" or "right" heads, there are no "left" or "right" shafts. The heads are not mirror-images of each other, they are both identical. As-installed on the engine, the shaft notches always point down, and are at the front on the drivers side head, and at the rear on the passenger side head. If you are not sure if the shafts are installed correctly, the small oil holes always point down and "out" towards the exhaust side of the head. I have seen shafts with no notches and even some notched incorrectly, so the best thing to do is check the orientation of those holes.
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that is a great explanation 69, thank you. took me a while to figure this out with others telling me 'front and rear' last night. I get it, and I'm gonna get to it.
 
all of the help so far is very much appreciated, just want you all to know that. :)
heading out to the garage to check/remedy this situation.
one question: as long as everything is put back in order on the shaft, do I need to lubricate anything? and thanks to all of you for the right torque for the shaft bolts (Rusty/Pishta/pt70), that's another great catch, thank you!
 
AJ/FormS said:
I know I can sometimes come off sounding like a plick or a know-it-all; so when I get a kudu, I do appreciate it. I'm just here to help. When I can no longer be of help, I guess I'll retire.
Or maybe I'll just hang around in the N&P and preach scary end-timechit, to those mostly not interested; hah!

Nice contribution , Toolman. that makes it perfectly clear
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And I love makin fun of your prickiness and knowitallness, but in the end you know I love you man. You're a total WEALTH of information and I do appreciate all of your contributions. Mark it on the wall cause I ain't doin it again. LMAO
 
69_340_GTS said:
Both shafts on both heads will be oriented exactly the same. Just as there no "left" or "right" heads, there are no "left" or "right" shafts. The heads are not mirror-images of each other, they are both identical. As-installed on the engine, the shaft notches always point down, and are at the front on the drivers side head, and at the rear on the passenger side head. If you are not sure if the shafts are installed correctly, the small oil holes always point down and "out" towards the exhaust side of the head. I have seen shafts with no notches and even some notched incorrectly, so the best thing to do is check the orientation of those holes.
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Exactly so!
 
I'll be damned, maybe someone put the notch in? it was correct.
shaft oil holes.jpg
 
oldmusclelover said:
I'll be damned, maybe someone put the notch in? it was correct. View attachment 1715425756
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as you can see in the photo, it's not nearly as 'keyway notched' as 70's picture, so I'm guessing this is as Rusty said, some are not notched.....and someone hit it on the grinder? (kinda has that 90 degree look to it, from the corner of a wheel). this is great news, as it was oiling properly, right? and I got the chance to meet and learn from some great people :)
it's back to being set and ready to be covered (and I cleaned the covers last night while setting the valves). all is good, and I have a warm fuzzy feeling......to crawl into bed and sleep.
THANK YOU ALL! that comes from the heart. wish I could buy a round for you all (don't get too excited, well drinks....just kidding).
table 17, your pizza is ready.
 
Gentlemen, if any of you are still here: started her up tonight and it sounds like a child's teeth on a cold winter day. when I adjusted the rocker, I felt the slight drag, then went about 3/8 of a turn and locked them down. if I was to guess, I'm thinking I need to crank them down a little more, but I don't like to guess, hence....asking the wise/knowledgeable group. if I should tighten them down, can I just add a half without going through the rotation of the engine (as previously), or what would you suggest I do? thanks again, you've all been very helpful.
 
oldmusclelover said:
Gentlemen, if any of you are still here: started her up tonight and it sounds like a child's teeth on a cold winter day. when I adjusted the rocker, I felt the slight drag, then went about 3/8 of a turn and locked them down. if I was to guess, I'm thinking I need to crank them down a little more, but I don't like to guess, hence....asking the wise/knowledgeable group. if I should tighten them down, can I just add a half without going through the rotation of the engine (as previously), or what would you suggest I do? thanks again, you've all been very helpful.
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Where are you? If you don't want to publish it, PM me. I'm in Washington and if it's not a two day drove I can come watch what you are doing and maybe help you.
 
Don't crank them down any more. I believe the problem may be that you were not on the base circle of some of the camshaft lobes, so cranking them down more could only exasperate the issue.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Don't crank them down any more. I believe the problem may be that you were not on the base circle of some of the camshaft lobes, so cranking them down more could only exasperate the issue.
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you could be right Rusty, but I was very careful to do the 90 degree rotation, set two, 90 more, set two, etc. the engine fire right up as soon as it got gas, and sounded good, except for the chatter, if that helps.
 
oldmusclelover said:
you could be right Rusty, but I was very careful to do the 90 degree rotation, set two, 90 more, set two, etc. the engine fire right up as soon as it got gas, and sounded good, except for the chatter, if that helps.
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Maybe you didn't run it long enough for the lifters to pump back up.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Maybe you didn't run it long enough for the lifters to pump back up.
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that is certainly a possibility, because when I heard the chatter I shut it down. I pulled the driver's side cover and checked torque again on the shaft (at your, and others recommended torque, went 16 ft lbs), it was good. I'll go out and run it for a minute and see what happens? or should I just set it at TDC , go four rotations and check the 3 intake and 5 exhaust seeing as I have that valve cover off?
 
oldmusclelover said:
that is certainly a possibility, because when I heard the chatter I shut it down. I pulled the driver's side cover and checked torque again on the shaft (at your, and others recommended torque, went 16 ft lbs), it was good. I'll go out and run it for a minute and see what happens? or should I just set it at TDC , go four rotations and check the 3 intake and 5 exhaust seeing as I have that valve cover off?
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Don't change anything "yet". Just run it. Are you sure it has oil pressure? If so, run it for a bit.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Don't change anything "yet". Just run it. Are you sure it has oil pressure? If so, run it for a bit.
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I'll check the gauge, didn't have time to see that, but when I opened the cover I could see oil that wasn't there when before I closed it up. I'll run it for a minute and see if there is pressure.
 
Rusty, I let it run for a couple minutes. as soon as it fired it went right to 54 on the oil pressure gauge. I'll check my settings, and maybe go a little heavier (maybe 3/4 to a full turn?). wanted to keep it light, but it might have been that as soon as I could feel the slightest touch while cranking down, that's where I started my 3/8 turn. don't know if I was too light? or if that's possible. developed a bad leak at the thermostat housing, my fault, used an old tube. I'll check the settings again. please let me know if I should go the 3/4 to full turn. this will probably have to wait until tomorrow, as I pushed the car out of the garage to clean up the mess. gotta get that done and ask the neighbor to help me push her back in. let me know, and I will proceed with setting them again tonight or in the morning, got a mess out there.
 
When lifters leak down, sometimes it can take 30 minutes for them all to get pumped back up. Sounds like you're just dying to change something, so go ahead. And 3/8 of a turn? Where in HECK did you come up with that?
 
IMO I still like this way. It's easy and works on adjustable hydraulic cams and for solid cams .



Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment the easy way

When the exhaust valve just begins to open Adjust the intake.
Turn the engine over until the intake push rod moves all the way up and rotates just past maximum lift. Now adjust Exhaust valve.

I personally do this 1 cylinder at a time.
I’ll adjust ¼ to ½ turn after determining Zero lash.

Works on Solid lifter cams a well just set your lash.

The way your doing is a better way just more time consuming IMO.
 
What kind of lifters are they? Many hydraulic lifters can be quite noisy. For example, you'll never get Rhoads lifters to stop ticking.
 
Also....you have roller rockers. Some of them are noisy as well. Also, if that camshaft is a really fast rate of lift, they are noisy as hell too, so you could have noise coming from several places.
 
RustyRatRod said:
When lifters leak down, sometimes it can take 30 minutes for them all to get pumped back up. Sounds like you're just dying to change something, so go ahead. And 3/8 of a turn? Where in HECK did you come up with that?
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Rusty, I'm certainly not trying to get you upset. all the help here said 1/4 to 3/4 turn, so I went light with 3/8 in case I wasn't feeling the 'drag' correctly, just trying to be cautious.
 
69_340_GTS said:
What kind of lifters are they? Many hydraulic lifters can be quite noisy. For example, you'll never get Rhoads lifters to stop ticking.
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I do not know 69, have went through all receipts and on them it states "parts supplied by owner".
 
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