oldmusclelover
Well-Known Member
I think I have it Mike, but just trying to be sure, as this is new to me. thanksAnd if you look at the shafts and the oil holes you should be able to figure out how they should go.
I think I have it Mike, but just trying to be sure, as this is new to me. thanksAnd if you look at the shafts and the oil holes you should be able to figure out how they should go.
I apologize, I am not understanding front and rear? the notch is approximately in the correct position for the oil holes to be pointing down. if you face the engine at the front, the notch is 'about' in the 7:30 position on the passenger side, which would put the oil holes in the 6 o'clock position (according to 70's picture. assuming the other in pic (driver's side) in exactly opposite, the notch on the driver's side (still facing from the front bumper), is in the 4:30 position, which should put the oil holes pointing downward, in the 6 o'clock position (approximately, but very close if not). is this correct? or did I explain it wrong again, LOL?
I think I have it Mike, but just trying to be sure, as this is new to me. thanks
****, my apologies to all! I thought the shafts were opposites, not the same. that's why they have to be in rear on the passenger side and in the front on the driver's side? same shaft set-up with the oil holes, just reversed on each side to accommodate the oil holes? well, I may have problems then, because the notches are both in the back.Absolutely you should be sure! It's that important.
****, my apologies to all! I thought the shafts were opposites, not the same. that's why they have to be in rear on the passenger side and in the front on the driver's side? same shaft set-up with the oil holes, just reversed on each side to accommodate the oil holes? well, I may have problems then, because the notches are both in the back.
Rusty, this engine has been run by another before me with the notches both in the rear (and a bit by myself), so I'm guessing I may have other problems? I get both notches pointed down, passenger side in rear, and driver's side in front. this threw me off, as I had posted to AJ that they were both in the rear. that's why I couldn't understand 'front and rear', instead of position. thank you, and all others that have put up with me, LOL, I truly appreciate your help/knowledge. seems I have some work ahead of meYeah that's incorrect. That's why we always try to use the notches as a reference if they have them. Just remember, passenger side down and to the rear, driver side down and toward the front and you got it. The oil holes will be in the correct position with the notches oriented like that.
Rusty, this engine has been run by another before me with the notches both in the rear (and a bit by myself), so I'm guessing I may have other problems? I get both notches pointed down, passenger side in rear, and driver's side in front. this threw me off, as I had posted to AJ that they were both in the rear. that's why I couldn't understand 'front and rear', instead of position. thank you, and all others that have put up with me, LOL, I truly appreciate your help/knowledge. seems I have some work ahead of me
I'll do that Kim, but what's the chance that I have problems because it was wrong for "I don't know how many miles"?Pass side should be right then. Drivers side take the assambly off , take bolts out of the shaft. Slide the rockers off the shaft. Turn shaft around and slide the rockers back on. Put bolts I. And re install. Kim
oldlover; Assuming the lifters are new and empty of oil, it is difficult to adjust hydraulic lifters using the pushrod turning method. ...
To adjust: back off each hex adjuster until you feel clearance [lash] in the rocker arm. Then tighten the hex until there is no lash. Then tighten hex 3/4 turn and torque the lock nut to spec. By the 16th time you will be good at it. The 3/4 turn is a guess, others may know more.
much appreciated Rusty!No problem. Hopefully you haven't had any damage. Correct it and see what you come up with.
Rusty, this engine has been run by another before me with the notches both in the rear (and a bit by myself), so I'm guessing I may have other problems? I get both notches pointed down, passenger side in rear, and driver's side in front. this threw me off, as I had posted to AJ that they were both in the rear. that's why I couldn't understand 'front and rear', instead of position. thank you, and all others that have put up with me, LOL, I truly appreciate your help/knowledge. seems I have some work ahead of me
good information to know, thank you RustyOh and one more thing. The torque spec for the rocker shaft bolts is WRONG in a lot of manuals. It' only 15-17 pound feet. In some manuals they have it listed as 30. They are only a 5/16 bolt and will BREAK OFF if you try to torque to 30.
And there again a little common sense goes a long way with valve adjustment. (Or most repairs on these old cars.)Notches always down and on your left as your facing them. If you bought them installed wrong, your probably ok as the shafts are pretty hard. As long as there aint 70k on them like that. I have not had stamped rockers since my early 351 Cleveland days ('89) and I never had a lifter preload issue using the 'spin' method. Maybe I got lucky.....
thanks Pishta, I'm hoping for that 'luck of the draw'. and I think I have the 'touch' figured out for the spin. tomorrow's another day, thanks againNotches always down and on your left as your facing them. If you bought them installed wrong, your probably ok as the shafts are pretty hard. As long as there aint 70k on them like that. I have not had stamped rockers since my early 351 Cleveland days ('89) and I never had a lifter preload issue using the 'spin' method. Maybe I got lucky.....
Damn straight. 65 FSM has 273 @ 15 ft/lbs and to confirm that 5/16 bolts break easily under a ham fisted torque wrench, the 65 intake with its 5/16th bolts only got torqued to 270 inch lbs (or 22 ft/lbs).Oh and one more thing. The torque spec for the rocker shaft bolts is WRONG in a lot of manuals. It' only 15-17 pound feet. In some manuals they have it listed as 30. They are only a 5/16 bolt and will BREAK OFF if you try to torque to 30.
Pishta, I'm one of those worry warts, so I pulled out the receipts. engine work in 07, and found one receipt with axle work in early 08 showing 69K on mileage. it's at 76K now, so I'm feeling a little better. with that known.....I will sleep a little better thanks again for the helpNotches always down and on your left as your facing them. If you bought them installed wrong, your probably ok as the shafts are pretty hard. As long as there aint 70k on them like that. I have not had stamped rockers since my early 351 Cleveland days ('89) and I never had a lifter preload issue using the 'spin' method. Maybe I got lucky.....
look at the shaft on the left....at the top...you will see a notch in the end....notch is down along with the oil holes...
some aftermaket shaft may not have the notch...what is important is holes facing down...as said...oil flows better going downhill...
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I know I can sometimes come off sounding like a plick or a know-it-all; so when I get a kudu, I do appreciate it. I'm just here to help. When I can no longer be of help, I guess I'll retire.Nice catch on the rocker shaft notches, AJ.
yes, great eye AJ, and great catch. I'll get to remedying the shaft(s). thanks so muchI know I can sometimes come off sounding like a plick or a know-it-all; so when I get a kudu, I do appreciate it. I'm just here to help. When I can no longer be of help, I guess I'll retire.
Or maybe I'll just hang around in the N&P and preach scary end-timechit, to those mostly not interested; hah!
Nice contribution , Toolman. that makes it perfectly clear