curious about valve lash setting/check

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oldlover; Assuming the lifters are new and empty of oil, it is difficult to adjust hydraulic lifters using the pushrod turning method. Nice rocker system by the way.

I'd start by backing off the hex screws out till they are all even with the locknuts. Then adjust the valves using one of several different methods of finding out which valve is up. I like to look for the valve rocker that is down, and adjust the rocker next to it [for the SAME cylinder]. Then turn the harmonic balancer bolt [crankshaft] 1/2 turn, and do the next four. Two revs of the crank should do it. Mark each rocker after adjusting.

To adjust: back off each hex adjuster until you feel clearance [lash] in the rocker arm. Then tighten the hex until there is no lash. Then tighten hex 3/4 turn and torque the lock nut to spec. By the 16th time you will be good at it. The 3/4 turn is a guess, others may know more.
 
Why did u want to adjust them? We’re they noisy? Solid lifter pushrods are longer than hydraulic p/r. U have to have the can on the base circle to adjust each cylinder. If u don’t understand how that is done, just ask. Kim
yes Kim, a little noisy, so as a maintenance measure and learning experience. I followed instructions I have read here, TDC, check the two on chart, turn to 90 degree mark, check two, and so on. thanks so much for your help and offer to help. I will check them tonight and reply.
 
I've always done my hydraulics like this but I do pull up and down on push rod to determine zero lash. Good to run engine before to make sure there is no bleed down going on. I copied this some where on the web.

For Hydraulic Lifter Camshafts

When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the first cylinder in the firing order, adjust the intake valve by loosening the adjusting nut slightly while spinning the pushrod until you feel lash in the rocker arm. Tighten the adjusting nut until the slack is taken out of the rocker arm and pushrod.( This is when I pull up and down on pushrod to check for zero lash) Lightly turn the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut, and you should feel a point where there is a little resistance (this is called Zero Lash). Turn the adjusting nut ½-turn past this point, giving you optimal pre-load for the rocker arm, pushrod and lifter. You should look for .030-.060 of preload in a typical hydraulic Lifter.” Follow this procedure by carefully adjusting each intake valve according to cylinder firing order.

When all of the intake valves have been set to the proper valve lash, you can adjust the exhaust valves. Utilizing the same procedure as with the intake valves, you need to turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up and rotates just past maximum lift. Now the exhaust valve can be adjusted. When all of the intake and exhaust valves have been set with the proper lash, it is common for all the top engine builders to perform a double check by rotating the engine and checking each valve again, starting from the first cylinder in the firing order.
 
I've always done my hydraulics like this but I do pull up and down on push rod to determine zero lash. Good to run engine before to make sure there is no bleed down going on. I copied this some where on the web.

For Hydraulic Lifter Camshafts

When the exhaust valve just begins to open on the first cylinder in the firing order, adjust the intake valve by loosening the adjusting nut slightly while spinning the pushrod until you feel lash in the rocker arm. Tighten the adjusting nut until the slack is taken out of the rocker arm and pushrod.( This is when I pull up and down on pushrod to check for zero lash) Lightly turn the pushrod with your fingers as you tighten the adjusting nut, and you should feel a point where there is a little resistance (this is called Zero Lash). Turn the adjusting nut ½-turn past this point, giving you optimal pre-load for the rocker arm, pushrod and lifter. You should look for .030-.060 of preload in a typical hydraulic Lifter.” Follow this procedure by carefully adjusting each intake valve according to cylinder firing order.

When all of the intake valves have been set to the proper valve lash, you can adjust the exhaust valves. Utilizing the same procedure as with the intake valves, you need to turn the engine over until the intake pushrod moves all the way up and rotates just past maximum lift. Now the exhaust valve can be adjusted. When all of the intake and exhaust valves have been set with the proper lash, it is common for all the top engine builders to perform a double check by rotating the engine and checking each valve again, starting from the first cylinder in the firing order.
thanks Kendog, I did pull up and down as another suggested. now I have another question per your suggestion to run the engine so there is no bleed down. from what I have read (which may be wrong, or I read it wrong) the valves use the spring pressure. I did give them a couple minutes each for them to open to full spring pressure before adjusting. so, do you have to run the engine before? I will ask this in my next post as well. thanks again for your help.
 
alright gentlemen, got the feel for the slight drag [thanks Pishta, for the wording :)]
and thanks to all for the help and patience. here's the outcome.
rockers even.jpg
rockers odd.jpg
 
The shaft orientation is very important for proper oiling. AJ will fill you in.
 
Some shafts don't have notches. In that case you need to make sure the small oiling holes in the shaft face down and towards the valve springs and not towards the intake manifold.
 
Check both ends of both shafts looking for the notch. The notch is a machined gutter over one the sideways facing tube edge and is something like 5/32 wide, I'm guessing. That is a lil more than .125 but not as much as .188,lol. You'll know it when you see it.
If you don't orient this notch to the left and down, then your shafts and rocker arms will not get the oil in the right places and galling is soon to follow.
If your tubes do not have notches, you be in big twubble.:poke:
 
Check both ends of both shafts looking for the notch. The notch is a machined gutter over one the sideways facing tube edge and is something like 5/32 wide, I'm guessing. That is a lil more than .125 but not as much as .188,lol. You'll know it when you see it.
If you don't orient this notch to the left and down, then your shafts and rocker arms will not get the oil in the right places and galling is soon to follow.
If your tubes do not have notches, you be in big twubble.:poke:
I'll look AJ, thank you for the help. not exactly sure what I'm looking for, but I'll search.
 
AJ, they are in the rear and about the 8 o'clock position on the drivers side, and the 4 o'clock position on the passenger side.
 
the holes in the shaft need to face down and towards the exhaust side of the engine....oil flows better downhill then up hill...
 
the holes in the shaft need to face down and towards the exhaust side of the engine....oil flows better downhill then up hill...
70, are you saying they should be about the 8 o'clock position on the drivers side, and 4 o'clock on the passenger side (facing the front of the engine)?
 
look at the shaft on the left....at the top...you will see a notch in the end....notch is down along with the oil holes...

some aftermaket shaft may not have the notch...what is important is holes facing down...as said...oil flows better going downhill...

shaft.jpg
 
look at the shaft on the left....at the top...you will see a notch in the end....notch is down along with the oil holes...

some aftermaket shaft may not have the notch...what is important is holes facing down...as said...oil flows better going downhill...

View attachment 1715425409
they are pointing downward, and towards the push rods, is this correct?
 
No, down like I just posted. Oil holes to the valve springs. Kim
if I am seeing it correctly, 70's picture (by the way, great representation 70) is showing that if the left side (passenger) is in the 8 o'clock position (as it is), then the oil holes are pointing down (approximately). am I correct in what I am seeing in the picture?
 
look at the shaft on the left....at the top...you will see a notch in the end....notch is down along with the oil holes...

some aftermaket shaft may not have the notch...what is important is holes facing down...as said...oil flows better going downhill...

View attachment 1715425409
70, I am guessing the oil holes to be about 12 degrees off from the notch? if this is correct, they should be correct, as I checked closely and found the notch to be about the 7:30 position, and 4:30 position upon closer inspection. if this is correct to your picture, you are holding them in position? left and right facing the engine? if so, it may not be perfectly situated, but they are very close. AJ, are you there? does that sound right to you as well?
 
AJ, they are in the rear and about the 8 o'clock position on the drivers side, and the 4 o'clock position on the passenger side.

Notch needs to face DOWN and to the REAR on the passenger's side and DOWN and to the FRONT on the driver's side.
 
And if you look at the shafts and the oil holes you should be able to figure out how they should go.
 
Long as you place the notches as kimmer and I described, the oil holes will be correct.
 
Notch needs to face DOWN and to the REAR on the passenger's side and DOWN and to the FRONT on the driver's side.
I apologize, I am not understanding front and rear? the notch is approximately in the correct position for the oil holes to be pointing down. if you face the engine at the front, the notch is 'about' in the 7:30 position on the passenger side, which would put the oil holes in the 6 o'clock position (according to 70's picture. assuming the other in pic (driver's side) in exactly opposite, the notch on the driver's side (still facing from the front bumper), is in the 4:30 position, which should put the oil holes pointing downward, in the 6 o'clock position (approximately, but very close if not). is this correct? or did I explain it wrong again, LOL?
 
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