Dad’s 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340

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I did same thing on inside of doors.
quick tip when painting a dash (that does involve some masking), paint the back side white. then if you ever need to lay under there to trouble shoot once it's assembled it's much easier to see what you're doing. :thumbsup:
neil.
 
Tonight I worked on a few things but accomplished little. I reassembled and reinstalled the wiper transmission using a DMT kit. Second item was starting the rear window trim clips. Found 2 holes that were stripped out. To fix it, I took some #8 u-nuts and cut the clip off, leaving the nut part. Slid that behind and screwed the screw into it. Before and after.

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Tonight was a good night. I got my struts fully installed for the trunk. I plug welded the ball stud bracket to the wheel well where the strut is straight left to right with only a little drop back to front. They work well! Now to disassemble the hinges for paint... again. We also installed the dash. It was not hard, but had some head scratching moments. In the end, we are happy.

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Today the booth came down. As all that is left to paint is the bumpers, and we need the space for car storage, we pulled the plug. We had a not so nice surprise waiting for us...
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So we did the dirty work...
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And after it was all over...
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I’m pretty sure the Chinese script on the box that the booth came in says “no way in hell you get booth back in box.” :)
 
Yeah, we werent trying to get it in the box. I just wanted it out of the way. I have an athletic equipment bag that I think it will fit in. Will take it over tomorrow and find out.

Today wasnt the most productive. I was tired. I hate time change, and we were in Indy all day yesterday and all morning. I dont like that place. I did get the hinges primered again, along with the door glass trim and the dome light. No pictures, as it really isnt that interesting. The INTERESTING part is that I started taillight installation! I did the driver side. We like it.

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Today was fun. We hung the passenger door. Took longer than I would have liked. It still needs to come up in the front, but it is pretty good! Put the trunk seal on, which was pretty strait forward. Also repainted the trunk hinges. Clear tomorrow

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Indeed, dosen't matter whose idea, great one, thanks for "unknowingly" sharing. Before painter's tape came about we used regular masking tape and it was a gamble...:eek:
 
Not a huge update. Finished the taillights and installed the trunk lid. Aligned the trunk lid as best we could. It’s pretty darn close, but a fairly large gap at the front of it. However the rear lines up, so I am guessing that’s just how it is. Also trying to figure out why the brake lights aren’t working. Given the adjustment (or lack of) on the switch, I expected they would be on.

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It could be the angle of the photograph but it appears the switch is contacting the cylindrical part of the pedal mount. If that is the case that is probably why the brake lights arent working. The brake light switch should be contacting the "pedal lever", which is the long thinner piece of metal that is welded to the cylindrical part of the pedal and goes down to the pedal pad.
 

Yeah, I have the switch, and it tests out just fine (normally closed, opens when pedal is pressed). It's just WAY out of adjustment. Like over an inch. I dont know if it ever was IN adjustment. I will check it tonight. Another weird thing is that even when I jumper the wires together, thereby eliminating the switch, I still get no brake lights. Ill play with it more tonight.
 
It could be the angle of the photograph but it appears the switch is contacting the cylindrical part of the pedal mount. If that is the case that is probably why the brake lights arent working. The brake light switch should be contacting the "pedal lever", which is the long thinner piece of metal that is welded to the cylindrical part of the pedal and goes down to the pedal pad.

Its just the angle. The switch isnt contacting anything, but it is in line with the brake pedal arm. Just way out of adjustment.
 
So you can depress switch and brake lights work?
We had a similar issue with Dads 67 cuda, same switch. I could be wrong, but double check hazard switch/wiring. The hazard switch can be connected incorrectly as it's a 4 terminal plug and could be connected 180* out. Hope that makes sense?
Good luck.
 
So you can depress switch and brake lights work?
We had a similar issue with Dads 67 cuda, same switch. I could be wrong, but double check hazard switch/wiring. The hazard switch can be connected incorrectly as it's a 4 terminal plug and could be connected 180* out. Hope that makes sense?
Good luck.

Depress the switch to turn OFF brake lights. Switch is normally closed, which means activating it opens it and turns off the brake lights. Regardless, that isnt where the issue is. If I jumper out the switch, the lights should turn on. They dont. So there is an issue someplace else.

Thanks for the tip on the hazard light switch. I will try that tonight!
 
I was over working on the brake lights last night, laying under the dash. I was just looking around and it finally clicked how the fuse box is supposed to mount...

I swear I have a brain cloud... where's the nearest volcano?
 
Steering column in. Hooked up turn signal, and now flashers and brake lights work. So yeah, turn signal switch is necessary to make everything work.
 
Planning on doing gas struts trunk and hood myself. No matter how much you grease those coiled hood springs they still squeak like a mouse.

So I used a screwdriver in the coils to open them up and bead blasted between the coils the best I could. Once that was done I opened the coils with the screwdrivers and packed the coil with grease. The Duster hood is smooth as silk and you can't hear it open. It can be done :). I also welded a couple of washers to give it more support on the pin to help with how they wanted to bow out when you closed it.
 
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