Dana 60 with upgraded slant six

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Greenmachine225

Greenmachine225

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Hey everyone,
I was originally planning on putting an 8 3/4 with my slant but they are just far too expensive and I noticed there are a lot of Dana 60 rear ends out there for cheap. Does anyone know if the Dana would be too much for the slant or if it's something I could deal with for a couple of years because I'm planning on dropping a small block in my 71 duster and building it over time. I would really like to get the rear end swap out of the way first so if anyone has any info or tips on wether or not it would work I would really appreciate it, thanks.
 
Get one from a truck (MY 88 D350 has a Dana 60) Have it cut down,install axle ends, brakes, new axles,spring pads.Also add in a sure grip, gear set,bearings,gaskets and seals. You will be good to go. OR order a S60 from Moser or Strange for the same money. I would price it both ways to see what would cost less.
 
Not sure how much the 8.75s you're looking at cost but they are generally way cheaper than the dana60. That's assuming you're talking about buying the rear-end and installing it directly in an a body. Truck rears are cheap but you spend lots to get it in your car...

Price all that darter6 suggested. Unless I'm missing something you can find a bolt in ready 8 3/4 with good gear and sure grip cheaper. Also I can carry an 8.75 by myself but not trying a 60 at this point in my life. As Dan pointed out lot a unnecessary weight but a slant won't break it.
 
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Even if you turbo a slant, that would mainly help to maintain torque at high rpm (thus HP) and not greatly increase max torque (at lower rpm). I would expect a rear-end is suddenly broken more by torque than by max HP, though high HP will wear the gears faster. Regardless, most 318 V-8 Darts came w/ a 7.25" rear-end, so unlikely a slant would damage one. Better than a 8.75" rear might be a 7.25" w/ Sure-grip, though those are rare. Refer to end of the movie "My Cousin Vinny". If you want to go fast, less weight is as important as more power. Big brakes are good for road-racing, but not smart for the drag strip. When you do need a bigger rear, consider the Ford 8.8 (Explorer, ...). One side must be cut, but many say that route is cheaper, plus gives rear disks (search).
 
Many options to think about. Who knows maybe a 540 Big Block will be in your future.Like you said the Slant is only temporary ..
 
1st, the title, "with upgraded slant six"..........................talk about drivin' finish brads w/a 12lb sledge!! Geebuz!! Will it work? Well Yeah! I agree, I don't know where You're
shopping, but You ain't finding a drop-in Dana60 for less than the equivalent in an 8.75. Then You throw the wildcard in,......"I'm planning on dropping a smallblock in it",.....
well then why ask the first question? A Dana60 is pretty friggin' heavy and big. If You'll need it then by all means, but if a streetable SB with an automatic is the plan it's
totally unnecessary. An 8.25 SG will do just fine.
 
Put an LSD into the 7.25 with 3.55s,,shim the diff parts as required to reduce the backlash in the spiders,add some good oil, and call it done.
You probably don't want to run slicks on it very often tho.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Put an LSD into the 7.25 with 3.55s,,shim the diff parts as required to reduce the backlash in the spiders,add some good oil, and call it done.
You probably don't want to run slicks on it very often tho.
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Question: Where do you expect to find a 7 1/4 LSD? And if you do it will probably need new clutches, which are pretty much made of "unobtainium". The last set of clutches I bought (after looking for a few years) cost over $150.
PS: I did run a 3.91 SG 7 1/4 in several 13 sec drag cars with slicks, and still have one with 5.13 gears in it.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Question: Where do you expect to find a 7 1/4 LSD? And if you do it will probably need new clutches, which are pretty much made of "unobtainium". The last set of clutches I bought (after looking for a few years) cost over $150.
PS: I did run a 3.91 SG 7 1/4 in several 13 sec drag cars with slicks, and still have one with 5.13 gears in it.
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Old Dakotas IIRC are 7.25s and AFAIK the guts swap over. They are cone-types easily repaired.
I still have one 7.25 SureGrip kicking around too.From a 67 Barracuda 273 as I recall.
 
Green machine, going with a dana60 is a bit overkill but what the hey, if you can pick one up cheap enough why not. Maybe just the weight factor. I'm presently using an 8 3/4, 742 case, 3.23 gear set behind my slant, seems to work just fine. Thanks, Al
 
Dude, an 8 1/4 will do everything you want, has a billion parts available, was built since the dawn of time, and isn't so heavy.
Putting a Dana behind anything less than anything with a trans brake or a BB/Hemi is foolish.

ESPECIALLY in a street car. Ditch the unsprung weight and steer clear of more than you need.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Old Dakotas IIRC are 7.25s and AFAIK the guts swap over. They are cone-types easily repaired.
I still have one 7.25 SureGrip kicking around too.From a 67 Barracuda 273 as I recall.
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Won't work. Dakota 7.25 is totally different.
 
Ive got the slant and the 4 speed. I'm looking for a diff to install. Dana I have read is too heavy and would take more power to run it. My 6 probably has 100 hp. Maybe a spool for the 7 1/4 would make me feel more comfortable.
 
Certain Ford 8 inch rears are almost a bolt in on a Mopar "A" body. Ford guys ditch them in favor of a 9 inch. When you find the correct width, they are cheap.
 
Two words. Ford 8.8
Edit: more words.. way cheaper than either a Dana or 8 3/4. Can be found with good gears, disc's, and limited slip, for a quarter (or less) what an equivalent a-body 8 3/4 costs, plenty strong enough for a small block 408, and LOTS of performance upgrades available.
you tube for videos on how to narrow an explorer rear, with or without narrowing tools.
 
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dana 60 in a a body ? well its a huge rear end , and cheap until you have to cut them down and get brakes for them , but you'll end up sending the same money cutting it n braking it . so other than its hugeness , you won't be breaking it , even with a blown or turbo'd /6 .this guy did his own measuring and he made a few that cost him , more machining time and a redo of his mods to the rear brake and axles fit to the rims he wants to run . so be careful what you get in to .

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