I had the exact same situation on my 69 Dart. I went from a 7.25 to a 8.75 rear end and had to extend the forward cable a couple of inches. A union nut and some allthread solved the problem.
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
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The black Dart has had the cable relocated to the outside because of the frame connectors. It still should work? It was complete and working the last time I used it.
Got to mess with it for 20 minutes, I’ve been getting my *** kicked at work every day for the past month.
I had to use a coupler and a piece of rod to extend it but it’s all hooked up now. I finished bench bleeding the MC yesterday. Tomorrow I’ll try to install MC and bleed the brakes… if I get a little time to work on it.
I’m going out of town next weekend, heading back to Vegas for a week… maybe I’ll get lucky and find a sweet car. Heck just getting lucky with the wife would make for a good vacation
I had to use a coupler and a piece of rod to extend it but it’s all hooked up now. I finished bench bleeding the MC yesterday. Tomorrow I’ll try to install MC and bleed the brakes… if I get a little time to work on it.
I’m going out of town next weekend, heading back to Vegas for a week… maybe I’ll get lucky and find a sweet car. Heck just getting lucky with the wife would make for a good vacation
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Great solution! It might be overthinking it, but you may want to consider a jam nut on either side of the coupler nut.
I 100% almost did that, it doesn’t move much but I still might take it off and do it. I’d like to shorten the extending rod anyways.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
at the least a tack weld each end of the nut, lol.
neil.
neil.
jam nuts on.
The rear hoses from the black car were a bit short so I took the ones from the copper car that I got from DrDiff. These braided ones are about 3 inches longer. Then I moved the mounting locations in the rear and tightened it all down.
MC bled and installed.
Just have to bleed everything after I eat lunch.
The rear hoses from the black car were a bit short so I took the ones from the copper car that I got from DrDiff. These braided ones are about 3 inches longer. Then I moved the mounting locations in the rear and tightened it all down.
MC bled and installed.
Just have to bleed everything after I eat lunch.
The rear brakes aren’t bleeding and I don’t know why. Fronts are locking up and rears are bone dry. I’m not seeing any leaks anywhere. Fluid is getting to the distribution block and draining out of all of the inlet/outlets from the distribution block.
I feel like I’m just not getting fluid in the rear lines? I believe the distribution block is hooked up correctly, I mean with the sizes of the lines/fittings being different it’s kind of hard to get them in the wrong spots?
I also hate the setup of the rear brakes. The bleeder valve is in the worst spot, makes it to where the passenger side can’t even get a hose on it because the bolt is in the way.
Next time spend the money and just buy a new complete kit from DrDiff for the rears.
I bought a motive power bleeder but I can’t figure out how to get it to work, it seems like it doesn’t seal and it seems like all of the fittings for the top don’t really do much.
I feel like I’m just not getting fluid in the rear lines? I believe the distribution block is hooked up correctly, I mean with the sizes of the lines/fittings being different it’s kind of hard to get them in the wrong spots?
I also hate the setup of the rear brakes. The bleeder valve is in the worst spot, makes it to where the passenger side can’t even get a hose on it because the bolt is in the way.
Next time spend the money and just buy a new complete kit from DrDiff for the rears.
I bought a motive power bleeder but I can’t figure out how to get it to work, it seems like it doesn’t seal and it seems like all of the fittings for the top don’t really do much.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
don't those distibution blocks have a shuttle valve in where if there's a leak front of back the other circuit's pressure pushes the valve over blocking flow to the leaky side. maybe your's did that and needs resetting. pretty sure i've had this in the past myself.
neil.
neil.
Is the rear soft hose new or old, that can be an issue. Pop it loss and see if fluid to it (THRU IT).
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If the last picture in post #4435 is right-side-up, your calipers are on up-side-down. Bleeder should be at the top. Doubt that will get fluid to the rear, but it will get the air out once you do. Remember, air is lighter than brake fluid and will rise to the top of the bore of the caliper.
That picture is of the passenger side rear brake, looking at it from inside to outside. The caliper is on correctly with the bleeder screw higher than the brake hose. I took that picture to show how close that screw is in relation to the bolt right there, it makes it impossible to get a hose over it.
I took it off today and gravity bled it… I may rip them off.
Well back in Vegas for a bit. Here’s some cars outside Area15 which is a new attraction area in Vegas.
That gives the word "insanity" an all new meaning!!!!
Just finished my course, it was a long 3 days learning about how to make implant supported dentures with my 3D printers.
Tonight some Cracker Barrel with the family. Tomorrow I’m going to go see if that Dart GTS is still sitting in from of Tony’s neighbors house…. If he still has it maybe he is ready to sell it this time?
Tonight some Cracker Barrel with the family. Tomorrow I’m going to go see if that Dart GTS is still sitting in from of Tony’s neighbors house…. If he still has it maybe he is ready to sell it this time?
CHOPPERS!!! I tell ya ,,,,CHOPPERS!!!!
and a Dart!!
I was scared when I pulled up without notice, it was the first time I didn’t see the car in front of the house… to my surprise it was in the back… The gentlemans name is Earl and he is a super nice guy, we talked for a couple of hours. He told me racing stories, stories of friends that are in the racing industry. Engine builders, painters and everything in between.
A Very high chance this car will be mine soon. He said “I’m at the point where I know I need to start selling some of my stuff and I’d be willing to part with the dart now.” I leave Monday but he has my number and will be getting ahold of me soon. Asked me how I’ll get it back to Missouri. He wants it to go to someone who will appreciate it, which my kids and I will. It has a 383 in it but he has a date correct 340 that will go with the car.
A Very high chance this car will be mine soon. He said “I’m at the point where I know I need to start selling some of my stuff and I’d be willing to part with the dart now.” I leave Monday but he has my number and will be getting ahold of me soon. Asked me how I’ll get it back to Missouri. He wants it to go to someone who will appreciate it, which my kids and I will. It has a 383 in it but he has a date correct 340 that will go with the car.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Wow Doc.....great on both parts. It is fascinating that you can model and make the implants right in your office. Are they the snap in/out kind, or more permanent? It's nice that you spent time with Earl and listened to his stories. I hope you get the Dart when he decides to let it go.
missing linc
Loose nut behind the wheel
Wow Doc.....great on both parts. It is fascinating that you can model and make the implants right in your office. Are they the snap in/out kind, or more permanent? It's nice that you spent time with Earl and listened to his stories. I hope you get the Dart when he decides to let it go.
This course was to do dentures that would be permanently in a patients mouth. Usually it’s 4 to 6 implants on top and 4 to 6 on the bottom. I currently do the snap in ones for lower dentures with 2 implants at my office but only once have I done a set for the top, and those were permanent. The 4-6 implants with permanent dentures is expensive and I don’t have a ton of patients that could afford it, which is ok. I honestly love my practice, we are busy but awesome patients and low stress.
Some dentures I’ve made myself in my office. Most of these are snap ins. The picture with the lady, she has dentures in that I made and are implant retained dentures.
Got some time to decode the fender tag, got everything except the “B33” but I’m probably incorrect in what I’m reading for that spot.
Worst part about the car… is the Y4, gold metallic…. That really is not an exciting color lol. It also is not in the GTS registry.
LS23:
Dodge Dart,Demon
Special
2 Door Hardtop
P9B: 340 275HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1969
Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA
158381: Sequence number
E55: 340 cid 4 barrel V8 275hp
D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
Y4: Gold Metallic (Dodge), Spanish Gold Metallic (Plymouth), Classic Gold Metallic (Chrysler & Imperial) Exterior Color
P6X: Trim - Premium, Vinyl Bucket Seats, Black
X9: Black (Dodge), Black Velvet (Plymouth), Formal Black (Chrysler & Imperial) Int. Door Frames
930: Build Date: September 30
083772: Order number
B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum
C16: Console w/Woodgrain Panel
C55: Bucket Seats
G11: Tinted Glass (all)
B33: Unknown
H51: Air Conditioning with Heater
J25: 3 Speed Wipers
L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
M25: Wide sill moldings
R21: AM/FM Radio (5 1/2 Watts)
V1X: Full Vinyl Top, Black
Worst part about the car… is the Y4, gold metallic…. That really is not an exciting color lol. It also is not in the GTS registry.
LS23:
Dodge Dart,Demon
Special
2 Door Hardtop
P9B: 340 275HP 1-4BBL 8 CYL
1969
Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI, USA
158381: Sequence number
E55: 340 cid 4 barrel V8 275hp
D32: Heavy Duty Automatic Transmission
Y4: Gold Metallic (Dodge), Spanish Gold Metallic (Plymouth), Classic Gold Metallic (Chrysler & Imperial) Exterior Color
P6X: Trim - Premium, Vinyl Bucket Seats, Black
X9: Black (Dodge), Black Velvet (Plymouth), Formal Black (Chrysler & Imperial) Int. Door Frames
930: Build Date: September 30
083772: Order number
B41: Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum
C16: Console w/Woodgrain Panel
C55: Bucket Seats
G11: Tinted Glass (all)
B33: Unknown
H51: Air Conditioning with Heater
J25: 3 Speed Wipers
L31: Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals
M21: Roof drip rail moldings
M25: Wide sill moldings
R21: AM/FM Radio (5 1/2 Watts)
V1X: Full Vinyl Top, Black
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