73stroked duster
Well-Known Member
72 duster no dash lights. No fuse in fuse box. When I put a fuse in it pops it. Assuming I have a short somewhere. We’re do I start my investigation. Thanks
Dash lights
- Thread starter 73stroked duster
- Start date
-
Headlight switch
Dash lights and tail lights on same fuse...
The FSM will help you understand everything on that circuit.
The dimmer controlled dash lights are a "trick." The path is follows:
The voltage source comes from the tail/ park fuse, which feeds to the light switch. The headlights only, are a separate unfused wire coming from the "welded splice" in the ammeter circuit.
The dash lamps power comes from tail / park fuse circuit, to the light switch, to the dash dimmer, and output on the tan wire, TO the "inst" fuse in the panel, and then out to all dimmer controlled lighting on orange wiring
For the dash lights to operate, then, the tail fuse must be good and that circuit operational, the lights must be "on" park or head, and the dimmer control turned "towards the left" (brighter) At this point power will go on the tan to the INST fuse, and to the lights.
Since you are not getting "smoke" with the fuse out, that means the light switch "and before" is OK. The dimmer is obviously passing power, as it blows the fuse.
The problem HAS to be in one of the many dimmer controlled lamps or the wiring to them
If you don't have a service manual, go over to MyMopar and download one, free
You have to ferret out all dimmer controlled lamps. You may have to cut and redo some of the orange wires either from the fuse panel or at other splice points. This is because some of the orange wires have factory splices, and go to more than one place. You have to have a way to isolate them. Also attempt to visually inspect as much of the under-dash harness as you can access. Look for possible "pinch" spots, damaged wrapping, etc.
Shift quadrant if automatic, all the dash illuminaiton lamps, ash tray, heater/ AC controls, radio, don't know what I left out???
I would start with ANY modifications. Added gauges? Aftermarket radio? Otherwise, you have a job ahead. Pull out and inspect what you can get to first.
The voltage source comes from the tail/ park fuse, which feeds to the light switch. The headlights only, are a separate unfused wire coming from the "welded splice" in the ammeter circuit.
The dash lamps power comes from tail / park fuse circuit, to the light switch, to the dash dimmer, and output on the tan wire, TO the "inst" fuse in the panel, and then out to all dimmer controlled lighting on orange wiring
For the dash lights to operate, then, the tail fuse must be good and that circuit operational, the lights must be "on" park or head, and the dimmer control turned "towards the left" (brighter) At this point power will go on the tan to the INST fuse, and to the lights.
Since you are not getting "smoke" with the fuse out, that means the light switch "and before" is OK. The dimmer is obviously passing power, as it blows the fuse.
The problem HAS to be in one of the many dimmer controlled lamps or the wiring to them
If you don't have a service manual, go over to MyMopar and download one, free
You have to ferret out all dimmer controlled lamps. You may have to cut and redo some of the orange wires either from the fuse panel or at other splice points. This is because some of the orange wires have factory splices, and go to more than one place. You have to have a way to isolate them. Also attempt to visually inspect as much of the under-dash harness as you can access. Look for possible "pinch" spots, damaged wrapping, etc.
Shift quadrant if automatic, all the dash illuminaiton lamps, ash tray, heater/ AC controls, radio, don't know what I left out???
I would start with ANY modifications. Added gauges? Aftermarket radio? Otherwise, you have a job ahead. Pull out and inspect what you can get to first.
Last edited:
Lord Sparky
Well-Known Member
Great summary!
What car would help. Is the ignition switch on the dash or the column? If its on the column and is column shift, there is a way to wire up the aftermarket replacement switch and blow that fuse. On some fuse boxes this fuse is marked "ill". We know that is short for illumination but diagnosing such a widespread circuit can make one ill LOL. Good luck with it.
-
Similar threads
