Decision: 5x4 (SBP) or 5x4.5?

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nice looking car. You didn’t have to change lower control arms to convert them, unless you just wanted refurbished ones ready to go.... you are right, sometimes rounding stuff up is a pain. When I do project like that I get everything I need prior to starting. When getting used spindles I always try to make sure they give you the dust shields, bolts and caliper brackets if they have them available. The rest can be bought new easily.

now that you’ve done the conversion you can get parts for them just about anywhere which is a huge plus.

I had mostly everything, but still got some new stuff and changed my mind a couple times on what I wanted. LCAs I had, but redid the entire suspension with new bushings. Then these ones I'm cutting, tightening and rewelding so there is no play in them. The only thing I didnt get were adjustable strut rods and torsion bars. Save those for a later date.

But yes just buy a new kit if you want easiest, most likely most reliably complete, and same $$

Then enjoy the chit out of the car driving it as much as possible. Then ask questions and advice from the smarter people in FABO, follow advice, rinse and repeat.
 
Isn’t Wilwood made in China?

Made right in California..as in MADE IN AMERICA:usflag::usflag::usflag::usflag:..by the way next time your at the track look to see what guys who run fast and want to make sure they stop use.. you won't find any stock **** on their cars..
 
I wont speak on the bbp vs sbp as most of the guys here have it covered. I would like to bring up the scarebird kit. It uses off the shelf toyota and gm parts at a fraction of the price and doesn't increase track width by anything more than a negligible amount. You can either redrill the rotor to use sbp wheels or redrill your hub and use screw in studs for bbp.

It's cheap and cheerful.
 
Actually. A large percentage of old mopars road racing use factory braking systems.
It all depends on the sanctioning body, and with vintage racing groups the emphasis is running like it was back in the day.
And for autocross, the factory systems are more than adequate.
For track days, then you are free to use what you want. I'm not going to criticise anyone from using a lighter sytem or a larger rotor when there is a reason for it.
The O.P. said he wanted front power disks, but not for any specific competition or track use. So that's what I was trying to keep my comments to. Any of these options will work, and work pretty well if everything is matched up.

Heh. just noticed in mopax archive that there was some difficulty sourcing 11.75 x 1 rotors in 2014..
These things go in cycles. I wouldn't sweat it.
 
Fast enough..and smart enough to know NOT to run that factory ****!!!

Luckily I'm not very smart and my car isn't very fast, so factory **** is what I used. :rofl:
I'm also cheap and thought going with what I had would be cheaper, but...

I'm also not in the D*** measuring contest because I like wilwoods, they are pretty and I also think they help you stop as well as stock parts from stop light to stop light.
 
Next to the superior quality of aftermarket they sure are..

Fast enough..and smart enough to know NOT to run that factory ****!!!

Factory parts are designed to last a 100k miles or more without issues. That’s called reliability. It’s important to people that actually drive their cars. It’s a crap load more important than a few pounds of weight savings, because that doesn’t mean crap when your calipers are frozen up and your wheels don’t fit. If you’ve got a garage queen you can trade reliability for some bling, but off the track it’ll bite you.

Hey, I’ve got a question for you since you seem to be a Wilwood “expert”. How many miles have you put on your car since you installed those Wilwoods? Since I know they sat for a couple seasons when you scattered your engine back to back. And trailer to and from the track. Have you even cracked 100 miles yet? 1,000 ?

I put 70k on the 11.75’s on my Challenger. I’ve got probably 15k miles on my DoctorDiff 13” kit. Both are better brake kits for street driving.


Actually. A large percentage of old mopars road racing use factory braking systems.
It all depends on the sanctioning body, and with vintage racing groups the emphasis is running like it was back in the day.
And for autocross, the factory systems are more than adequate.
For track days, then you are free to use what you want. I'm not going to criticise anyone from using a lighter sytem or a larger rotor when there is a reason for it.
The O.P. said he wanted front power disks, but not for any specific competition or track use. So that's what I was trying to keep my comments to. Any of these options will work, and work pretty well if everything is matched up.

Heh. just noticed in mopax archive that there was some difficulty sourcing 11.75 x 1 rotors in 2014..
These things go in cycles. I wouldn't sweat it.

Exactly. The factory brakes are actually quite good. They were better than their competitors at the time, which is why Mopar was able to run them basically unchanged into the mid-eighties.

As for the 11.75’s, that’s not surprising. The 11.75” rotors only came on B/R bodies and only from ‘76 to ‘81. So they’re like A-body brakes in that respect, pretty limited production. Totally unlike the 10.87” disks and the 10x2.5” rear drums.
 
Original steelies are awesome.

I leave mine in place with the original bolt pattern.

Because you're very into original Barry.
Nothing wrong with that, but it does come with obvious limitations.

I love steelies and poverty caps.
Since you can't see thru them... who's going to know if you've got small bolt pattern wheels or not?
 
Because you're very into original Barry.
Nothing wrong with that, but it does come with obvious limitations.

I love steelies and poverty caps.
Since you can't see thru them... who's going to know if you've got small bolt pattern wheels or not?

Me too! With Redlines are the best:thumbsup:

20200111_130114.jpg
 
Because you're very into original Barry.
Nothing wrong with that, but it does come with obvious limitations.

I love steelies and poverty caps.
Since you can't see thru them... who's going to know if you've got small bolt pattern wheels or not?

Exactly. And if you run 15" rims you can run the later 11.75" B/R body brakes for a nice stopping upgrade. With steelies and caps it will be difficult to tell it's even an 11.75" kit from the outside. And it uses all factory parts so you know it will last forever. It provides a nice improvement in braking even over the 10.87" disks. You get a great improvement in function with a barely noticeable hit to "originality", and it's really easy to swap back if someone down the line decides they need a museum piece.

Here's my Duster with cop wheels, 11.75" front disks and 11x2.5" rear drums with 225/60/15's before I upgraded again. Can't tell it's not original from the outside, and it stopped great!
IMG_1550.jpeg
 
stock steel wheels...15x6 205 65 front 15x8-1/2.. 275 60 stickymickeys 80 F discs 10.87" and 11x2.5 from 74 B.
no rubbing, no clearance issues, brakes excellent.
Back in the 70's-80's I always upsized tires/wheels to 15".
Factory never seemed to fill out the wheel opening.

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Factory disk system is hardly a museum piece.
There's advantages to a fixed caliper and there's advantages to running a larger disk.
In the situation asked about here, the performance differences will not matter.

They appear to be original, 5x4 (SBP) and are 14 inches by 5.5 wide
Is that 5.5 inches on the outside or inside of the rim lips?
Measure and/or look at the stamped information.
If you are wondering, yes there were different rim widths.
 
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