Decision making was never my strong point...HELP lol

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metallidart said:
Mine is a 1997 Eddie Bauer, 87K miles, awd, and believe it or not, a factory 5.0! Black with tan leather, its super comfy, but no third row. I stuck flowmasters on it already lol, I couldnt resist. It gets about 21mpg on the highway, 14.5 or so in the city. Its got a few little bugs to fix, but it runs great and goes anywhere. I just hate the awd, can't have any fun.
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OK drop a 5.8 in there and I bet if you search hard enough there is a way to disable AWD Like there is for a Expedition.
 
abodyjoe said:
can ya hear the 440 run?

if so i would hear it run and make sure its a good motor. then i would yank it put a new chain,oil pump and water pump in and drop it in the dart after some cleaning and painting. i think you would be surprised at how good it will run.

headers are the biggest issue and are not cheap.

as far as the wp outlet goes there are a ton of different ways to go about it. my first big block abody swap i used the alumn mp housing. it came out on the drivers side and my rad outlet was on the pass side. i just got some exhaust pipe bent up to go from the wp around the oil filter and to the rad. worked great.
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He said I can stop out anytime and hear it, he won't take it out until he has the cash in hand. I would be getting it complete, which is nice, and he is maybe 5 minutes away.

I didn't think of that, with the exhaust pipe. Alot of rod guys do that because of limited space.

Right now, for a bb, I have a double roller 3 bolt set, a double roller chain/lower sprocket, hv oil pump, a set of mp cut to fit pushrods, mp .500/610 chrome vanadium valve springs "077", a carter 750 and a 750 dp, some gaskets, and other odds and ends.
 
Old Tired Rebel said:
OK drop a 5.8 in there and I bet if you search hard enough there is a way to disable AWD Like there is for a Expedition.
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I hate to admit, I did some research on it lol. You can do it, but it requires come computer work, a different transfer case, etc. Worst thing about the V8s in thoseis there is NO room for headers, it has tubular manifolds and it is the worst design I have ever seen. My pass side is cracked and leaking, and I hate to replace it with another non flowing peice of crap. You know, for better mileage lol.
 
I say small block the a-body, it will drive way better and smoke many big blocks....drop the 440 in a Dakota or Durango like my buddy did :glasses7:
 

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All I have is 1 truck truck oil pan and 1 Car pan that I need for my 440.

Also a motorhome pistons has 2 reliefs on the edge of the pistons,all mine are this way. So new pistons are in order for me.

Here is how you can make your own DC K frame.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml

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That is sweet! Aaahhh! This isn't helping! lol. Well, it is, but it may leave me in the dog house for quite some time...

66340sedan, you are the only one who actually came out and said small block. Rani kinda hinted at it. Even my fiance said big block, which about made me fall down.
 
Old Tired Rebel said:
All I have is 1 truck truck oil pan and 1 Car pan that I need for my 440.

Also a motorhome pistons has 2 reliefs on the edge of the pistons,all mine are this way. So new pistons are in order for me.

Here is how you can make your own DC K frame.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml

100_4591-600_zpsaed0506c.jpg


100_4592-600_zps06e65cd1.jpg


100_4593-600_zps77273ddf.jpg
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Thanks! I forgot all about bigblockdart.com. Thats cool about the pans, I dont want to start getting alot of stuff until I am sure. I will try to keep the timing set though!
 
As for headers, I wouldn't be afraid to use the fenderwells, whatever would be cheapest. I have a couple ideas on how to reinforce the inner fender.
 
Cliff those notches in your pistons are normal. They indicate which way the front of the engine is for correct installation. There's nothing wrong with them.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Cliff those notches in your pistons are normal. They indicate which way the front of the engine is for correct installation. There's nothing wrong with them.
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Thanks Rob you saved me again. So a good cleaning,new bearings,cam and I will be set to go once I find a BB 727 for donor or to rebuild.
 
I guess it comes down to what you plan on doing with the car. A cruiser you can take on out of town trips without costing a fortune? Small block. Tire shredding Saturday night special? Big block. That's maybe oversimplified, but you get the gist of it. :)
 
jd340 said:
I guess it comes down to what you plan on doing with the car. A cruiser you can take on out of town trips without costing a fortune? Small block. Tire shredding Saturday night special? Big block. That's maybe oversimplified, but you get the gist of it. :)
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Well Put. :D
 
jd340 said:
I guess it comes down to what you plan on doing with the car. A cruiser you can take on out of town trips without costing a fortune? Small block. Tire shredding Saturday night special? Big block. That's maybe oversimplified, but you get the gist of it. :)
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Now hold on a sec. I've seen some fairly warm 383s with thermoquads get 17 plus on the road with decent gearing. It's still a big block.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I have the ability to go big block but after a lot of research and seeing what a small block can be built to do I said forget that.
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Bill I understand that since you want more of a driver than a drag car. My big old Cordoba needs all the help it can get. metallicdart sorry for hijacking your thread.
 
Old Tired Rebel said:
Bill I understand that since you want more of a driver than a drag car. My big old Cordoba needs all the help it can get. metallicdart sorry for hijacking your thread.
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I was speaking of having to shoe horn it in to an A body and all the headaches/costs that come with it. That is why I made a stand alone post in reply to the op.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I was speaking of having to shoe horn it in to an A body and all the headaches/costs that come with it. That is why I made a stand alone post in reply to the op.
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Make a DC K Frame then it would drop in easy.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Now hold on a sec. I've seen some fairly warm 383s with thermoquads get 17 plus on the road with decent gearing. It's still a big block.
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Never said you can't get decent mileage from a big block. It all just comes down to what he wants from the car. I personally prefer small blocks. Easier to work on, less weight over the nose, simpler swaps...that's just my 2 cents. :)
 
I think I want it to be just a street bruiser, mid 12s or so would be fun. I know I could do it easy with a 360 (not my magnum, at least not the way it is) but I think a 440 would give me a warm, fuzzy feeling when I open the hood lol. That being said, I do have the 422 shortblock (small block) that was intended for my Dart Sport. I could put it in the Dart, and when the time comes, maybe build a more mild 408 for the sport since I want it to have a/c, pb, etc.

My fiance says, go big block. I then start talking myself out of it. Wtf is wrong with me?? lol.

I think I will keep thinking it over, and in the meantime, get this magnum together. Got one head together today, supposed to be decent out tomorrow so maybe I can button up the bottom end!

I just keep picturing it with slots, dark blue paint, light blue interior, ss springs and tires to fill up the room given by the relocated springs, and a 440 with a nasty rumble...
 
jd340 said:
Never said you can't get decent mileage from a big block. It all just comes down to what he wants from the car. I personally prefer small blocks. Easier to work on, less weight over the nose, simpler swaps...that's just my 2 cents. :)
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I agree. I love small blocks. Had a ton of them, but if I do another one, it will be a big block simply to do something different.
 
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