Not necessarily. I get it "where I like it". A lot of times, that's right where the cam card says. Sometimes it's not.RustyRatRod, so when you set em up, Do you go for most CR?
Not necessarily. I get it "where I like it". A lot of times, that's right where the cam card says. Sometimes it's not.RustyRatRod, so when you set em up, Do you go for most CR?
Thanks Rob! So I'm thinking, that, just comes with YEARS of ExperienceNot necessarily. I get it "where I like it". A lot of times, that's right where the cam card says. Sometimes it's not.
Hell yeah! Now that IS brutal! Love it!I've had cams or timing sets...hmmm.. be 8 degrees OFF. Usually mopar cams that I used with jp performance timing sets.
I've also had more cams be dead nuts on the closing.
I set it to intake close where it should be or where I want it for the car it's going in, usually advanced 4-6.
If I spec the entire build.. I set it where the card says.. because the cam is right for what I'm doing.
If it feels soft now.. doesnt crank a ton of cyl pressure.. advance that ***** 4 degrees at least. I've put some in 10 degrees advance..lol.. enough advance to throw the tires off the wheels..
Years of fuckin up is more like it.Thanks Rob! So I'm thinking, that, just comes with YEARS of Experience
Well, that sounds like some of the gals I been with... Years of F'n up, dealing with dumb ****, and, ( Maybe) learning from Experience. I've had the pleasure of attracting Mentally Ill psychos....Years of fuckin up is more like it.
This is the most I've learned in a minute...and reason stands to Degree it, just to check the gears, ect..and I know you're an electronic Genius, didn't know you are a cam install tech! Thanks Dell!
Big red "X" right back at ya LOLI had Ken at Oregon cam pretty much grind all of my cams and this last time we had an in-person conversation about degreeing the cam in my latest build that he ground... He certainly didn't mention anything about putting a little level across the intake and exhaust lifters...
The whole discussion surrounded getting it degrade to the cam card specs over the intake centerline..
While Uncle Tony and other Youboobers have their budget minded time (very little..) saving methods and especially in Uncle Tony's case justified by it being an old racers trick to save time in between rounds which likely those racers use the same cam over and over you're not going to find any cam manufacturer to say do it with a level across the lifters...
99.99% of the time if you just line it up to dot it's going to run fine, but run to its potential... My money is going to go on what the cam grinder recommends and it ain't sticking no level across the two lifters..
Even this 'Ol Carpenter can actuallyBig red "X" right back at ya LOL
That's what I always did, but You, 318, and RRR have actually made me darn near understand this, to me anyway, dark arcane art...LOL well I ain't. You could count the cams I've installed on both hands and a couple toes. Most of those were back in the old days, LOL I never knew what a degree wheel was. "I asked" most guys I knew said "just put it in"!! LOL
Now I'm confused, again...Sorry,
Nicely presented video but very misleading. Three assumptions are being made that could could additively distort the result or going the other way, be mutually cancelling. Those three things are that the sprocket key ways are correctly indexed & that the machining/key slot/TDC mark on the balancer is accurate.
Also, in post #8, the OP says it is a 'split' cam. If that means the the exh duration is greater than the intake, & the above machining was correct, then that cam is retarded, ie. the ICL is greater than the LSA [ example 112 ICL, 108 LSA ].
With a single pattern cam, the video procedure is useful as a guide, but not super accurate. Good enough for a starting point if you want to see how your new cam performs. Typically, using the video method with a single pattern cam that has 4* of advance ground in, putting a straight edge across the lifters on overlap, the intake lifter will he higher by 0.010-0.040" than the exh. If the exh is higher, then the cam c/l is retarded relative to TDC.
Your disagree was just out of hurt feelings, mine were out of knowledge given to me by the person who ground my cam and your cam......Big red "X" right back at ya LOL
I got to give another one .... LOLYour disagree was just out of hurt feelings, mine were out of knowledge given to me by the person who ground my cam and your cam......
LOL... I'm notNow I'm confused, again...
Again, it's not for everyone. Like I say in the video ... "take it as unprofessional advice". I think I said in the beginning "degreeing wheel is your best way". Now, I turn it over to the "judges"! Ye'll have funLOL... I'm not
IF I put my "wrongly installed cam that's retarded in timing" junkyard 200,*** mile 5.9 (didn't even pull the pan) in a Duster, I'd be beating some 6,000 dollar stroker motor A-body street cars on even this here site !!! Some that even had machine shop ported heads, 410 cubes, custom ground cam (that was OBVIOUSLY installed correctly), roller rockers, and dual quads !!!!!
The results are not tested? They're only tested the way you put them in there then if you read agree the cam will they be different? I said in my original post that you could put it.. and it's going to run and probably run good but optimized?..LOL... I'm not
I justify a method by results.
It's funny how you started with you're not going to argue the point LOL...Again, it's not for everyone. Like I say in the video ... "take it as unprofessional advice". I think I said in the beginning "degreeing wheel is your best way". Now, I turn it over to the "judges"! Ye'll have fun
So then you have no clue either, 'cuz you didn't do "back to back test in a controlled enviroment". LOLYou have no clue. Unless you have back-to-back test and a controlled environment with the same engine...
Well, stick to any method you'd like !!! I didn't PM you telling you to try my method LOL It was in single digits this morning, or else I'd be out getting stuff done on "Change and Challenge" project. Again, I measure by results. You might consider doing the same... LOLIt's funny how you started with you're not going to argue the point LOL...
I agree to disagree or agree LOL you can stick to your unprofessional advice as quoted and I'll stick to my professional advice from the person who ground both of our cams...
The problem is 318WR is not the OP, & the OP hasn't indicated what camshaft We are talking about, single/dual pattern? How aggressive? Say a Comp XE with fast open ramps & slower closing ramps? With the lobe centers installed straight-up on a typical dual pattern, the OL will shift ATDC, but maybe less or to BTDC the more assymetrical the lobes are a la aggressive endurance cams.Sorry,
Nicely presented video but very misleading. Three assumptions are being made that could could additively distort the result or going the other way, be mutually cancelling. Those three things are that the sprocket key ways are correctly indexed & that the machining/key slot/TDC mark on the balancer is accurate.
Also, in post #8, the OP says it is a 'split' cam. If that means the the exh duration is greater than the intake, & the above machining was correct, then that cam is retarded, ie. the ICL is greater than the LSA [ example 112 ICL, 108 LSA ].
With a single pattern cam, the video procedure is useful as a guide, but not super accurate. Good enough for a starting point if you want to see how your new cam performs. Typically, using the video method with a single pattern cam that has 4* of advance ground in, putting a straight edge across the lifters on overlap, the intake lifter will he higher by 0.010-0.040" than the exh. If the exh is higher, then the cam c/l is retarded relative to TDC.
Have You checked the lifters when seated on the base circles to see if they're perfectly level to begin with? If not, this method is not OK, even if Your goal is to time by =OL valve lift.Using a laser level to align the timing marks on the sprockets I got 10.5' after TDC. Using a flat edge on the lifters to check overlap I got 7' after TDC. TDC was found using a degree wheel and piston stop.
Edit: This is before installing new set.