Disc brake upgrade for 66 Formula S Cuda

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gatorfly

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Considering upgrading to front discs on my Cuda and wanted to see if anyone has gone through this and if there are any suggestions for more modern cars to serve as the donor or do I need to go with an aftermarket kit (like Wildwood).

Thanks
 
73-76 A Body discs on my 65 GT 'vert and wagon with shortened & resplined LBP axles in the 8.75; Kelsey Hayes on the 65 Barracuda & Valiant 'vert stock 5 on 4 in the 8.75.
 

hey gatorfly; do a search for "disk brake conversions" and you'll get 1000 threads on how to do this. there are multiple ways to go: Kelsey Hayes, aftermarket kits, and so on.

However; the easiest and cheapest way to go is: Find a donor 73+ A body with disk brakes. ASSUMING a functioning brake system, take the UCAs, spindles complete with rotors, calipers, pads and hoses, proportioning valve and master cylinder. Those parts are a direct Mopar A body bolt on. (steel lines are needed too, to go from a single pot to dual master cylinder)

If any or all of those parts are worn or bad, the: Master Cylinder, Calipers, Pads, Rotors, hoses, seals, bearings, UCA busings, Ball joints are all available at your local parts store. Specialty shops have repop proportioning valves too.

The only donor parts that are needed off the car are: UCAs, spindles and caliper brackets. spindles and UCA sets go for ~$300 or so. If you pass up the UCAs, you can get tubular ones for around $300. Get RMS adjustable UCAs. (my opinion, they are the best).

Total brake upgrade? Figure ~ $300 - $700 using mopar single piston calipers from a stock 73+ A body.

NOW: you'll have large bolt pattern (5x4.5") up front. leave the back SBP or just throw a LBP rear under it. LBP S6 open rears are nearly free for the taking.....
 
I did a complete swap of the Kelsey Hayes brakes from a 67 power disc Cuda to my 66 Cuda, which is now manual disc. I just ommitted the booster and used my same brake pushrod that was in the 66. I just got everything from the same car including the distribution valve, and ordered lines for a 66 manual disc car from Fine Lines and it was a direct swap. The calipers I scored were just rebuilt so I didn't need to rebuild those, but I did replace the lower control arms as I didn't want to put used ones back on. I routinely see complete sets here for sale for $350.00-450.00, ready to go on. In my opinion, your best bet so you can retain the small bolt pattern all the way around, unless you are considering a change anyway. Good luck with your project, Geof
 
I used a 72 Duster it had an 8 3/4 rear it was all plug and play even the master cylinder, just make sure you take the proportioning valve.
 
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