Do it all Duster!!!

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Clelan

Clelan

Inferno Red Duster
FABO Gold Member
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
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Location
Martensville Sask. Can.
I am trying to build a Swiss army knife out of my 74 Duster. I’d like to use it in street legal drags as well as autocross at some point.

Here is my plan.

360/727/8 ¼” diff (Change to 8 3/4" when I can find one). I am doing welded in sub-frame connectors and mini tubs.

In the front I want to go with tubular upper control arms, Adjustable shocks (Do I even need to?) and a sway bar (Hotchkis 1 ¼”). Should I put in heavier torsion bars? What size?
I already have MP 002/003 super stock springs and I’d like to keep them. I want to add a sway bar to the back too (Hotchkis 1”). I’ll use an adjustable Rancho shock in the back. I’d like to relocate the springs inward to take full advantage of the mini tubs, but wouldn’t that have a negative effect to the addition of the sway bar?

I have been told that what helps in cornering hurts at the strip and vice versa, Is there any truth to this? I’ve built 4x4 trucks before, but never a car, so this is all new to me. If anyone has similar dreams, or similar equipment on their car, please share your knowledge.
 
Sounds like you have a decent plan already. How much horsepower are you planning on? I ask because I really don't think that the mini-tub is needed for a Duster. I have 295's on my Duster with no rubbing, and I managed that with just a 1/2" spring/shackle offset and trimming the quarter lip back a 1/2", wheel tubs are stock.

The 3" spring relocation would be detrimental to the handling aspect of your build. That can be offset using the rear sway bar, but if you don't need to go bigger than 295's than you can skip the relocation and mini-tub and just do an offset.

Some of the handling mods do take away from drag performance, but its not a huge problem. 17/18" rims are best for handling, but you would want more sidewall than that for drag racing. You can solve that by having an extra set of rims with drag radials to swap on for the 1/4 mile. Typically you also want lighter torsion bars and skinny front wheels for maximizing your 1/4 time, but those are fairly minor effects. The superstock springs are good for drag racing, but because they aren't the same side to side and tend to raise the back end of the car they aren't the best for handling corners.


This is what I would do (and have basically done...)

1.06 (or bigger) Firm Feel torsion bars - $355
Tubular UCA’s (PST, FFI, etc) $350
Adjustable strut rods (PST SR 14385) $279
Solid tie rod sleeves (PST SAS 440S) $49
LCA boxing plate (PST LCAPLTMOP621) $14.50
Greasable LCA pins (FFI w bushings) $135

Hellwig Sway bars

Tubular front 1 1/8” #55904 $175
Solid rear 3/4” #6907 $237

or E body rear ( for B rear cars)
Solid 7/8” #6908 $180

Afco leaf springs

20231M (121 lb) $320
20231 (142 lb) $340

1” bushings for shackles
Energy suspension 2-2117G $9

Hotchkis RCD shocks
(RCD-70-56663) $400

I pretty much run the above set up. I run bigger 1.12" FFI torsion bars, Magnumforce non-adjustable UCA's, adjustable strut rods, and 11/16" tie rod ends with solid adjusters. I have the non-adjustable Hotchkis Fox shocks. LCA's are reinforced with a boxing plate, K-member is fully seam welded, and I installed 1.5"x3" homemade subframe connectors and torque boxes. I run a B body 8 3/4" rear and 18x9's with 275/35/18's up front and 18x10's with 295/35/18's in the back. Hellwig sway bars and AFCO 20231m's. The AFCO springs have a reinforced front section for better resistance against spring wrap than stock springs, but they're the same side to side and don't raise the car like the SuperStock springs do.

Pretty much everything I've done to mine is in my build thread...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=198098

IMG_5264b_zps4c31ed25.jpg
 
You are very correct on the drag vs. cornering set ups. Just skimming the set up you want to do, the MP springs will be great for drag but may cause wheel hop under hard breaking during auto crosses. At least 1.00 or larger torsion bars should be used for auto crossing. Moving the springs inboard may also make the swaybar unusable due to the links hitting the springs. Adjustable shocks will be a must if you plan on doing both drag and track time. You can build a good set up that should do great at the track and ok on the autocross with out spending too much depending on your wheel/tire selection for each.
 
Here is what set up I have in my 74 Duster:
LA 360 about 400HP with Hughes Whiplash cam, Holly 750 DP, 727 TF, 3.73 gears in a custom tubed and braced 8.75 w/Yukon axles and Powertrax locker. Welded in frame connectors, SS springs, Caltracs, AAR-style rear sway bar, 1.1" front sway bar. Lokar shifter and kickdown.
 

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I have nothing to add, but wanted to mention I work at the Agrium Potash mine in Vanscoy, and a friend I work with is from Martensville.
 
Saskatchewan loves the Potash Industry! I work at Mosaic Potash in Colonsay. What do you do there? I know a couple guys working out there.

Cley
 
I am an electrician too. I work for Mosaic as a planner. The guys I know are iron workers. They both currently work underground.
 
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