this may sound like a dumb question but I bought an adapter to use the newer thermostats, the reason in doing so was I couldn't seem to get the original to seal. The adapter I bought is o ringed and seals perfectly. Now it seems like it doesn't matter what stat I use ( 160, 180, 190) my engine runs at 195. I know it's not hot but I would like to run a bit cooler.
Do the newer magnum style thermostats flow enough
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Just an opinion, but if it runs at 195 even on warmer days I'd leave it but if it tends to run hotter on warmer days I'd pull it and look to see if there was high flow for the magnums.
Woods74
Broke Senior
Exactally, don't buy into the 'designer' thermostat temperatures. 195 or bust. Flex fans and blinker fluid fall into the same category.
If it stayed at 195 I would be ok with it but it doesn't. To make a long story short I've been running a clutch fan and I've tried a couple electrics. I think I have a water flow issue, I'm running a 180 thermostat but my lowest temp I see is 195. This is with a clutch fan down the highway on very cool days. if the system was working properly it should be running around 180.
New rad and new water pump, changed thermostat, no change. I here there are hi flow t stats, thinking I might try one if I can find one.
Woods74
Broke Senior
You running a big block? I have no problem with a dakota radiator, stock pump, clutch fan and a stock 195 thermostat on my sweet threesixtay.
Smallblock, warmed over 416.
magnummopar
Well-Known Member
high flow t stats are like high flow cats, mostly bullshit. You can buy a performance t stat for a magnum, but should be same as regular. Are you sure you have correct water pump installed? Magnums flow backwards of LA. Also, are you sure you dont have a cracked head, that will make em run hot. What kind/style of radiator? Is it heating up mostly in traffic, freeway or doesnt matter? Do you have a fan shroud? How about a pic of your combo?
It's not a magnum, just the stat is. Motor is fresh, less than 50 miles and I had the exact problem last year with different motor. It is a brand new b cool 22" 2 core down flow rad. It has the larger cores but can't remember the size off hand.
It runs 195 all day long down the highway and heats up in traffic ( clutch fan no shroud ). I know I need a shroud but is what I'm getting at is that I should be running 180 ish down the highway even with no shroud.
Thanks for the replies, keep er coming.
Sorry, no current pics
It runs 195 all day long down the highway and heats up in traffic ( clutch fan no shroud ). I know I need a shroud but is what I'm getting at is that I should be running 180 ish down the highway even with no shroud.
Thanks for the replies, keep er coming.
Sorry, no current pics
Heat gauge reading correctly???
I actually have three. Electric gauge, idiot lite that comes on at 210 and my fuel injection has a sensor with a display. I've also verified with a heat gun. All good
so as I've said I had this problem last year. I did change the thermostat but did not test it before I changed it. I actually kept my old one, just tested and it opens 20 degrees higher than it should and closes at the proper temp. I'll post my findings
magnummopar
Well-Known Member
horsepower is just a measurement of heat. How many hp do you estimate your engine is? You stated aftermarket injection, what brand? a 22" 2 row b cool(i disagree) is not going to handle much more than 250-275 hp freeway or not. If it gets hotter in traffic then thats a pretty good indicator that a, you need a shroud and b probably a larger radiator. If it wont come down from 195 then thats about all it can handle. FYI we only used b cool 3-4 times in my shop at customers request, rich jeep guys that thought "more expensive means in must be better ". They all overheated and had issues, then at my insistence, they used my less expensive and not as "race car looking" radiator and fan combo. No more problems at all, never even a thanks! In my experience, be cool was exactly the opposite, over priced and over rated all while being under cooled.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I'm seeing that trend also with the B cools.
I have a 190 stat on a magnum with all LA front equipment and a 26inch 2 row radiator from Oreilly's and pushing 350 hp with electric fan and zero cooling problems.
It runs at 190-195 all day long on the hiway unless I'm really pushing it out across the desert and then it might get up around 200.
In town and stoplight to stoplight traffic it'll get up around 210 and then the fan comes on and brings it right back down to 190 and shuts off.
Give me two blocks of over 35 mph and it comes down that quick also.
The radiator was under 200, but it doesn't look all fancy.
After the engine change and still does it is a pretty big clue for the OP.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I think if I were you the first thing I would do is pull the stat and run without it for a bit.
If it still gets hot without it then you know for sure you have a non capable cooling system instead of a flow issue caused by the stat.
I'm betting you'll still have the heating problem though.
Stats and housing were designed for enough flow to cool an engine under pretty much any circumstances.
It's usually radiators that get mismatched by accident or design.
Usually I'm the last person to tell someone to go buy something else, but in this case I'd bet you it's the radiator.
Running it without a stat will prove it.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
This last sentence is ONLY true IF the rad and cooling system has the heat capacity to shed enough heat to get the coolant down to around 180 F. The t'stat does not set the running temp by itself; it only sets the lowest possible running temp. The rad area and airflow across it set the actual running temp; if it that temp is above the t'stat temp, then it will go to the higher temp.
As said, I suspect you do simply do not have enough rad; a 2 row 22" is small for a 416. The heat shedding capacity of the rad simply is not enough, and the cooling system heat capacity equals the cruise heat production of the engine at 195. To get this down, you need more rad or air flow over the rad.
BTW, I would not test with no t'stat as it will lower the pressure in the heads and block and may get hotter due to the subsequent localized boiling. Part of the function of the t'stat is to BE a restriction and thus increase the coolant pressure in the heads and block. If you want to do this test, then gut a t'stat and put the outer piece in as a restriction.
BTW#2 195 is not a bad place to be....
Opm68
Member
Had similar problem with overheating with my 340 Dart. Finally solved with 26" radiator from C body Chrysler, 5 bladed clutch fan from Chrysler, shroud, 160 stat, anti cavitation water pump. Tried just about every thing before that with no success. I could go to a hotter stat but why fix what ain't broke?
magnummopar
Well-Known Member
with no stat, the coolant will circulate to quickly and not pull the heat out, running even hotter. Thats why drag cars run restrictor washers in place of ta stat. slow it down so it can remove heat in both engine and rad. '
OP call b cool or whoever you got it from and ask HP rating of rad. If they say more than 375 then they are full of crap. We have a 22" 2 row aluminum, nothing fancy, just well made under $185 and ita rated at 375. I would say mild 360 would be fine but nothing more. The 3 row version is rated at 500 which is probably where you need to be as 416 should be 400-450 pretty easy. You need a shroud too, or go elecctric.
OP call b cool or whoever you got it from and ask HP rating of rad. If they say more than 375 then they are full of crap. We have a 22" 2 row aluminum, nothing fancy, just well made under $185 and ita rated at 375. I would say mild 360 would be fine but nothing more. The 3 row version is rated at 500 which is probably where you need to be as 416 should be 400-450 pretty easy. You need a shroud too, or go elecctric.
Opm68
Member
X2 on stat needed to slow coolant flow through rad.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
There is a point at which removing the stat can help diagnose a problem, but not running one at all is not what I meant.
Not everything is always only one way or the other.
Not everything is always only one way or the other.
There is a point at which removing the stat can help diagnose a problem, but not running one at all is not what I meant.
Not everything is always only one way or the other.
I changed out the thermostat for a 160. I now run 175 on the highway. I tested both stats in hot water. They both worked properly.
magnummopar
Well-Known Member
something doesnt make sense, all its doing is letting water flow a few minutes sooner, it should not affect overall temp once its warmed up
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Could easily be that the gauge is off that much. But indeed that would not explain why the temp would drop to 175 after 'always' running at 195 regardless of t'stat temp....and contradicts the OP's original symptom description where supposedly a 160 t'stat still ran the engine at 195.
OP, did you perchance change the t'stat brand? What brand are you using? Some are not so hot...er, good....
And be aware of the fact of accelerated internal engine wear for lower engine temps.
OP, did you perchance change the t'stat brand? What brand are you using? Some are not so hot...er, good....
And be aware of the fact of accelerated internal engine wear for lower engine temps.
the t stat that I used last year ran at 195 but when I done the ol hot water test it opened late. I bought a new one and it opened and closed at 160, that's the one that dropped me to 175. They are all from Napa, I'm not sure of brand but I'll check. I guess it is possible that my gauges are out but it seems unlikely.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
OK, dunno on the NAPA brands' quality or not. OK, that makes sense on the old 160 t'stat. BTW, the t'stat opens due to heat so you have to have some heat above the opening temp to get it to stay open. My /6 runs 10-15F above the t'stat temp in warm weather.
Sounds like you are god now. Glad we could help... LOL
Sounds like you are god now. Glad we could help... LOL
Not totally relevant, but I like the Mr Gasket high flow thermostats. Not that my truck was anywhere near over heating, but I got one for it shortly after I bought it because I put a pair of reman cylinder heads on it. It dropped the temperature by a good bit. It normally ran not quite to the half way mark. Now it runs between the first and second line just above the C.
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