Do wagons need sub frame connectors

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Princess Valiant

A.K.A. Rainy Day Auto
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Ok, so most here know I am crazy about wagons and I am currently working very active on my wagon.

my thought of the day is: Do wagons need subframe connectors??

It has become my standard practice to install subframe connectors on my 2 door cars even for street use and it makes a huge difference, but that is on a 2 door car with the front seat mounted right over the weakest part of the floor.

Now I am looking at my wagon and its a 4 door so it has this massive B-pillar for support and this thing looks like its built like a tank.


So it makes me wonder if it would really benefit and stiffen up any more than it already is with subframe connectors ???
 
They have the same unibody as the B body. So use your best judgment.

oh and howdeeeeeee and stuff and all and everything.
 
Yes, I would expect similar results/ improvement on a wagon or 4 door as with a two door.
Or think of it as comparing a two door hardtop and two door sedan ( post car), both are much better with connectors.
 
Can't hurt. But unless you're going to be side-stepping the clutch on a big ol' RB with gears and wrinklewalls, I'd say it's really overkill.


*Edited to add: Okay, I changed my mind a little bit. If you're also going with HD torsion bars and/or rear leafs, it can help out the flexiness that you'll be experiencing, like going up driveways diagonally etc. Stick with your standard practice.
 
Can't hurt. But unless you're going to be side-stepping the clutch on a big ol' RB with gears and wrinklewalls, I'd say it's really overkill.

Well when I first came here, she was "into" big blocks LOL
 
Well when I first came here, she was "into" big blocks LOL

this car is no exception .......four hundred and forty cubic inches of V8 power .......with a four speed

I looked it up and I am sure there is a law somewhere that makes it a federal violation to build a B-body with a small block :D:D
 

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As a general rule anything with a unibody benefits from frame connectors.
 
I can say that years back I had a few 440 4 speed cars I built back from d ead. 69 coronet rt, 69 440-6 bee. come to mind. if looking at them from behind, the sucker was obviously twisted. the 383 b body 4 speed cars might have been twisted from that torque too but I never seemed to notice it on them.
I add frame rails to everything now myself, tubing and mig wire is cheap.

as members on here have said, Ma Mopar should have added them to all these cars when new!??? but they wen to the unitized body to save some bucks in the first place!???? ha
 
Not a bad idea Rani with all that Mopower under the hood.
 

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I'm really digging that snorkel scoop.
 
Food for thought. Many times on this sight,I have seen comments about how doors won't close or open well on a unibody when the vehicle is jacked up on one corner. But they close very well after subframe connectors are welded in. Why don't you jack up a corner,and try opening and closing the doors? This may be a good indicator of how stiff your vehicle already is, and perhaps help you make a decision.That being said,Im voting you will put them in anyways.
 
Wagons tend to have longer wheelbases than their 2 door counterparts. More potential for flex and more need for better weight transfer by stiffening the frame in drag racing applications. But even shorter wheelbase small blocks can eventually "tweak" the frame and body seams if driven hard enough on the street.

Hope to have my wagon out for some test runs before the end of the year and an MRL 360 NHRA Stock legal engine for next season. I wouldn't race it without frame connectors. :burnout: (Not my garage. :( )
 

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Most A-body wagons (and convertibles) had torque boxes on them provide additional torsional rigidity. This was done to make up for a lack of bracing behind the back seat. IMO, Chrysler was playing catch-up in this situation. Adding sub-frame connectors will help with a minimal impact on weight.
 
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