Dodge One Wire Alternator

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64drtGt

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Is it possible to convert any dodge alternators to one wire? I have one off a 73 440, mid 80's 318 and a 93 magnum alternator.
 
"There exists" an add on, small, potted regulator that you can bolt onto the rear. This is what, or similar to what Powermaster uses

I DO NOT LIKE "one wire" for general street use. If you DO decide to go this route you need an OVERSIZED charge wire from the alternator to the battery, because voltage sensing is right at the alternator.
 
My problem is the in my truck somewhere between the alternator and either regulator or battery the wiring is toast. Dad said the truck always charged fine until someone arced a set of jumper cables over never charged right again he replaced the regulator alternator and the part behind the ammeter in the dash. He had a old chevy 1 wire but i want to run a dodge alternator and alternator brackets.
If anyone has the wiring diagram for a factory alternator I could just wire it up with new wires to the regulator and the battery,ect.
I'm on a pretty tight budget so cheaper the better lol
 
I got a friend with a 1 wire alternator...been on there for years....even drove the car from northern nevada to vegas and back....plus all over northern nevada with no problems.....

it is one of the powermaster alternators.
 
I got a friend with a 1 wire alternator...been on there for years....even drove the car from northern nevada to vegas and back....plus all over northern nevada with no problems.....

it is one of the powermaster alternators.
all of mine but one was a 1 wire set up, never any problems w/ them-------bob
 
My problem is the in my truck somewhere between the alternator and either regulator or battery the wiring is toast. Dad said the truck always charged fine until someone arced a set of jumper cables over never charged right again he replaced the regulator alternator and the part behind the ammeter in the dash. He had a old chevy 1 wire but i want to run a dodge alternator and alternator brackets.
If anyone has the wiring diagram for a factory alternator I could just wire it up with new wires to the regulator and the battery,ect.
I'm on a pretty tight budget so cheaper the better lol

The thing is the regulator/ alternator/ and associated field wiring may not be the trouble at all. It could very well be in the bulkhead connector/ ammeter, in which case if you bypass the ammeter, it won't matter if it's 1 or 3 wire

Start by reading this article:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Does it charge "at all?" What exactly does it do that's wrong?

Here, from "MyMopar" is a simplified diagram of the regulator/ alternator wiring. That diagram does not show the ammeter/ bulkhead, but it does show the regulator. The far right terminal of the regulator goes to one field terminal. the remaining regulator terminal and the remaining alternator field terminal goes to switched 12V coming from the key. IMPORTANT that the regulator be grounded.

Dual_Field_Alternator_Wiring.jpg
 
I dont think it charged at all dad said it always would run the battery down until he swapped over to the GM alternator. My truck is a 84 so the wiring is a little different than in that article. The bulk head connectors looked good I have them apart right now because when I pulled the old motor I removed harness and all so I could paint the fire wall.
 
Jegs and Summit sells one wire chrysler alternators for about $100.00
There has been a one wire alternator on my dads truck for over 15 years with no issues.
 
I love how people with no diagnostic ability, run for a one wire alternator, when all they need is some common sense and a volt meter to fix there problem......
 
that's not directed to anyone in particular here, just in general
 
I love how people with no diagnostic ability, run for a one wire alternator, when all they need is some common sense and a volt meter to fix there problem......


I have plenty of diagnostic ability just don't feel like chasing a needle in a haystack in what is honestly under stander wiring to begin with. I would rather rewire the chrysler 3 wire setup with new wires than try to find the one problematic spot. I am asking about the one wire setup because I prefer and am going for a clean looking engine bay and the less wires the better.
 
I'm not familiar enough with the later stuff to advise you, unless you have and can post some of the related diagrams.

You CAN use a one wire, but as I said one big big caveat is to use a huge charge wire. No6 would be good, or if you don't have that big, you can make one up out of say, three parallel no 10 wires.

Here's the thing with a "one wire." When the battery is "a little down," say, in the winter, you have lights, heater, etc, or whatever---"a big load" and the alternator is charging hard, there WILL BE a voltage drop on the charge line, and the alternator "sense" is at the alternator, not the battery. IF the charge wire is a little small, the system voltage will sag, while the alternator thinks everybody is happy.
 
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