Does anyone make window slide blocks?

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Map63Vette

Map63Vette

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As the title suggests, this past weekend I pulled all the glass and tracks out of my driver side door on my 67 Dart as I've been working on trying to get the window to seal better and I've had issues with it being tough to crank. I cleaned all the channels out and tried to realign things so it actually rolls pretty good now, but the little block that go on either side of the window at the front and ride in the front channel are broken on the bottom set at least (and maybe to some degree on the top). There is enough there to somewhat stay in place, but it lets the window rock a bit when I'm rolling it up and down, so I'd like to see about replacing them. Based on my parts manual they appear to be 2588-716 for a part number (for a steel set, they list a plastic number as well, but I'm pretty sure mine are metal core at least). I tried looking up the number, but haven't had the best of luck. Wasn't sure if anyone here might know a place that is reproducing them. I thought about trying to 3D print a set myself just to see how long a plastic set might last, but I didn't have high hopes.

Edit: Had the P/N wrong originally, it's 2588-716, not 2888-716. The plastic part number is 2841-646 as well.
 
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Mopar A Body 67-72 & B Body 66-70 Door Glass Division Channel Guide SINGLE 2932230

This kit does 1 window. there are other kits that do 2 windows. watch the prices.

and the parts are 2 plastic pieces with a metal pin between

1744046469420.png
 
Dana67Dart said:
Mopar A Body 67-72 & B Body 66-70 Door Glass Division Channel Guide SINGLE 2932230

This kit does 1 window. there are other kits that do 2 windows. watch the prices.

and the parts are 2 plastic pieces with a metal pin between

View attachment 1716389621
Click to expand...

Thanks! I did manage to find that one once I looked up the plastic pin part number. Does no one make the metal version? Any idea why they were different to begin with? The other thing I'm trying to figure out is the felt guide. I don't seem to have that on my window. I have a plastic/mylar/something kind of "wrapper" on the front edge of the window and the metal guide blocks, so wasn't sure if this was just another 67 only kind of thing or if my wrapper stuff used to be something else in the past and that's just all that's left of it.
 
Map63Vette said:
I have a plastic/mylar/something kind of "wrapper" on the front edge of the window and the metal guide blocks, so wasn't sure if this was just another 67 only kind of thing or if my wrapper stuff used to be something else in the past and that's just all that's left of it.
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the Mylar USED to have felt on it.

1744048663876.png


I have 2 67s and have taken parts off of other A bodies. the photo I posted came off a 67 Barracuda. all are plastic with a metal bar between

and its not 67 only thing, the same part was used for several years till they got rid of the vent windows
 
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67 parts book

1744048017006.png


Please post a photo of your slides. When was your car built, maybe its a holdover from 66? I have a Nov 66 build and a Feb 67 build and I took some off a Jan 67 build, all were plastics


this is from 66 parts book

Looks like A Body did not use the slides BUT B and C bodies did and they call out the metal part number
1744048404008.png
 
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1744048187414.png


23-64-282, it lists a "steel type" and a "plastic type". The blocks in my car very much feel like they are metal with maybe some kind of coating on them. They is no hint of white on them, but they are also 50+ years old and maybe we never that color to begin with.
 
The ones in my car look like the ones you posted for the most part. I could have sworn by the weight and stuff that they felt like they were metal though, or at least plastic coated metal maybe? I only thought that since I saw both options listed in the parts manual. I'll have to get them out and look closer next time and maybe try to prod them with a pick ro something to see if they gouge. Right now they are back in the car as there was enough left to give me some amount of retainment, but I'll see about replacing them at some point probably. Maybe I'll have a go at 3D printing some after all, though I need to get my hinges fixed first probably.

I just can't quite get my windows to seal to my new weatherstripping. Pretty much everything is adjusted as far as I can get it, but the window won't go high enough for the top edge to sweep the strip and it doesn't lean in far enough either to touch the face of it either. The door seems to be about as centered as I can get it as well when everything is closed. I know my car is a junkyard mess of parts thrown together until it roughly resembled a vehicle, but just annoying that it's so close, but not enough to seal out the noise. I tried adjusting the weatherstirp track as well, but it's also all the way outboard as much as I can get it, so I'm running out of ideas.
 
Map63Vette said:
They is no hint of white on them, but they are also 50+ years old and maybe we never that color to begin with.
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the OEM 67 would be black like in my photo the white one are later oem / aftermarket replacements
 
Map63Vette said:
I just can't quite get my windows to seal to my new weatherstripping. Pretty much everything is adjusted as far as I can get it, but the window won't go high enough for the top edge to sweep the strip and it doesn't lean in far enough either to touch the face of it either.
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my convert is the same way. i have a pinky sized gap between the front upper part of the seal and the Top seal And the windows are close.

if you can lift up on the rear of the drivers glass and it moves much the slides are the reason. I replaced my slides several years ago and it improved the rear top sealing but not the overall fit. My dads notes from when he bought the car talked about all sorts of leaks, windshield, doors, top, etc.

I started CAD for the slides but then the aftermarket ones came back on the market so I stopped development on it.

this is where I left off. looks like I did not get as far along as I thought.

1744060230699.png


1744060204454.png
 

Dana67Dart said:
my convert is the same way. i have a pinky sized gap between the front upper part of the seal and the Top seal And the windows are close.

if you can lift up on the rear of the drivers glass and it moves much the slides are the reason. I replaced my slides several years ago and it improved the rear top sealing but not the overall fit. My dads notes from when he bought the car talked about all sorts of leaks, windshield, doors, top, etc.

I started CAD for the slides but then the aftermarket ones came back on the market so I stopped development on it.

this is where I left off. looks like I did not get as far along as I thought.

View attachment 1716389767

View attachment 1716389766
Click to expand...

Yeah, my gaps aren't quite that bad, but it's annoying because they are so close. Probably ~1/8" or so both up and in and I'd be where I want, but I can't find a good way to do it. I'd try to put something behind the weatherstripping to push it out a tad, but the way it mounts kind of prevents that. My top blocks are okay, but the bottoms ones are borderline. I originally noticed the problem because the window would roll up and down differently depending on where it was in the travel. Like if you rolled it all the way up from the bottom it would come up mostly level, but if you rolled it down a couple inches and back up it would sit at a pretty good angle as it bound up in the track. Scrubbing out the tracks helped it a fair amount, but I know new blocks would probably help more.

I'll have to fight with the alignment a little more. Part of the reason I took the whole assembly out of the door was to clean everything up and free up all the adjusters so I wasn't having to adjust through rust or other general dirt/corrosion. Now that everything moves a little more freely maybe I can get that last bit I need inboard at least. I can't figure a way to make it go up any higher since it has the notch at the top front corner. Even if I adjust the up stop that notch is going to hit the top of the track and stop it I think.

The rear quarters fit great and press into the weatherstripping nice and tight at least. Though they don't really like rolling up and down that much. Down is okay, but up binds them up pretty bad and you kind of have to rock the window crank back and forth a bit to get them to come up. Guess I could take the same approach and pull all the guts out to try to clean and lube them better, but they don't see that much action, so I'm not super keep on messing with them. I've also scratched up my tint enough trying to get the windows in after tinting them to begin with and then again adjusting them.
 
You have seen in the FSM the window adjustment section?
 
Dana67Dart said:
You have seen in the FSM the window adjustment section?
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Yeah, I started with that the first time I did it. I've winged it a bit since then trying to get things more dialed as I understand the general concept of which adjusters move what which way. I don't think I can follow the FSM to the letter because enough stuff on my car just doesn't line up or have enough adjustment anyway. Like I can't roll the window down and center it in the opening, then roll it up and have any kind of adjustment where I need it sort of thing. I'm guessing if I took the whole rear quarter assembly out I might be able to clean it up a little more, but at the moment everything but the top of the window is working fairly well. Probably wouldn't hurt to fix my hinges and guide blocks though, just to try to get everything as close to a good base point as I can.
 
You know that old saying in Mopar land....

Never say Never....

I figured I would get back to CADing up the black window slides.

The OP was questioning Metal vs Plastic. I was sure the black ones were Plastic....


OOPS!

EGG FIRMILY PLANTED ON FACE

1746055138250.png


I'm guessing these are "Metal" 2588716. They have a VERY hard rubbery plastic with felt impregnated into it on the frame side covering a metal core.

WHO KNEW!
Well at least now I have CAD for an OEM looking part!



1746117617383.png


the lip is where felt would start and wrap around the filleted face

1746117759860.png

lighter color would be felt covering
1746117888741.png
 
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@Map63Vette , I dont know why you are even trying to adjust your glass with totally worn out channel guides, do as @Dana67Dart suggested and go buy/install new guides and shoes, then read up on how to adjust the glass/vent frame. It can be a little challenging but not that difficult to replace them, and it sounds like you have mechanical aptitude so you shouldnt have an issue, but of course you have to pull your whole vent frame and window assembly. While you are at it, make sure to clean and relube all the moving parts. You may also need to use some spray lube on the inside of the glass channel if rolling the window is too difficult.
As many on here can attest, it can be a real pain to get the whole thing adjusted right, even worse if you have worn out parts.
Word of advice, the new guides will have to be trimmed to length/shape so make sure to compare your old one to the new and mark where you need to cut. Also, when making the holes in the guides for the guide pins, I used a point type soldering iron to melt the plastic rather than trying to cut holes; and make sure the guide shoes are totally clamped together.
Do some searching on this site and you will find threads dealing with this subject already and help if you need it.
 
70SwingerGuy said:
@Map63Vette , I dont know why you are even trying to adjust your glass with totally worn out channel guides, do as @Dana67Dart suggested and go buy/install new guides and shoes, then read up on how to adjust the glass/vent frame. It can be a little challenging but not that difficult to replace them, and it sounds like you have mechanical aptitude so you shouldnt have an issue, but of course you have to pull your whole vent frame and window assembly. While you are at it, make sure to clean and relube all the moving parts. You may also need to use some spray lube on the inside of the glass channel if rolling the window is too difficult.
As many on here can attest, it can be a real pain to get the whole thing adjusted right, even worse if you have worn out parts.
Word of advice, the new guides will have to be trimmed to length/shape so make sure to compare your old one to the new and mark where you need to cut. Also, when making the holes in the guides for the guide pins, I used a point type soldering iron to melt the plastic rather than trying to cut holes; and make sure the guide shoes are totally clamped together.
Do some searching on this site and you will find threads dealing with this subject already and help if you need it.
Click to expand...

Mine aren't actually super terrible, at least on the driver's side. They are still pretty much rectangular, the biggest issue is more just that the little round portion that sticks up where the pin goes in has broken some. My passenger window is pretty bad if you lift up and down on the rear of it for sure though. I was mostly just trying to get some semblance of sealing to keep the noise down. My weatherstripping was totally shot, so I only went after the windows after I put new stuff in and found it still didn't line up that well. Still likely planning to replace the guides at some point, but probably need to do the door hinges on the driver's side as well, so it's turned into a bit of a snowball project. I had the whole assembly out a couple of weeks ago to clear and scrub down all the channels because it was difficult to roll up and down. I think my bigger issue with that at the moment is actually the front to back glass alignment the more I look at it. I have them adjusted too tight so the front window drags on the rear window felt and actually rolls the window down while the trim stays in place. So looks like I need to get some new stuff to fix the trim to the window more firmly as well. The snowball just keeps growing, lol.
 
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