Does trans fluid wear out

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daredevil

daredevil

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My 02 ram quadcab has acted up twice this week. Its been over a hundred here and I let the truck run for 5 or 10 minutes when I run in a house to check it. When I come back and drop it in gear it seems to slip. I baby it and when I get up to speed it doesnt want to shift to o/d. I stopped both times at this point and let it sit an hour and it seems fine again. Does the fluid lose viscosity and make the converter loose.Changed it twice but havent done it lately,about 75 k ago was the last change. Truck has 160,000 miles. Could old fluid cause this in the heat or do I have a bigger problem looming.Long as I dont let it sit its fine. Whats gonna happen if i get in a traffic jam though. Rams have coolers on them already.What should I do?
 
Change the Fluid and Filter. You might want to take it to a shop so they can remove ALL the old tranny fluid and replace it with fresh new fluid
 
Doing this this weekend but wanted to know what the cause was. If fluid cant cause this I hate to waste 50 dollars worth of fluid if a rebuild is inevitable.
 
Fluid getting old and too hot can do that. However you can also call/talk with a trusted tranny guy about that. I had a similar situation with a 200R4, when the fluid was cold it worked great but once it heated up the tranny would shift too early. Turned out that a simple switch on the inside (cost $50 to replace) was the problem. I spent an extra $50 to have my tranny guy flush the entire setup and replace the filter while he was at it.
 
Find a place that has a good obdII scanner & make sure they let you see the results. Many times a trans malfunction will not trip the light but it will show up in the computers history.....Many trucks can not be read by a typical inexpensive scanner as they are non obdII compliant. When I get a chance I will check the software on mine to see if your truck is listed as one of the ones that needs it own software....
 
Might be time to upgrade the tranny cooler . One word of warning, if it's high mileage, all the friction material from clutch packs, wear items, etc. floating around in there may be the only thing making her work. I have seen many times a high mileage car get a tranny flush and filter and not be able to even drive out of the bay....
 
inkjunkie said:
Find a place that has a good obdII scanner & make sure they let you see the results. Many times a trans malfunction will not trip the light but it will show up in the computers history.....Many trucks can not be read by a typical inexpensive scanner as they are non obdII compliant. When I get a chance I will check the software on mine to see if your truck is listed as one of the ones that needs it own software....
Click to expand...


OBD II became required in all US trucks and cars in '96. I have not run into a single domestic or asian truck that you can not get into the power train heading/trans with a standard obd II tool like the OTC Nemisys or even the cheapo Harbor Freight one for $150.
 
daredevil said:
My 02 ram quadcab has acted up twice this week. Its been over a hundred here and I let the truck run for 5 or 10 minutes when I run in a house to check it. When I come back and drop it in gear it seems to slip. I baby it and when I get up to speed it doesnt want to shift to o/d. I stopped both times at this point and let it sit an hour and it seems fine again. Does the fluid lose viscosity and make the converter loose.Changed it twice but havent done it lately,about 75 k ago was the last change. Truck has 160,000 miles. Could old fluid cause this in the heat or do I have a bigger problem looming.Long as I dont let it sit its fine. Whats gonna happen if i get in a traffic jam though. Rams have coolers on them already.What should I do?
Click to expand...


When the trans is sitting in park it doesn't pump fluid all that well. that terrible design of the 727 followed thru until only 2006 i believe when they finally allowed the trans to pump correctly even when in park.

If you want to let it idle for any time, do it in nuetral.

Temp is what you really need to go by to change fluid, mileage intervals are much longer on trans fluid, UNLESS you run it hot... then the fluid you put in yesterday that might have gone to 60,000 now needs to be dropped 10 minutes ago....

Without a trans temp gauge to watch you'll never know.

Changing the fluid after certain issues like this can cause other issues, as the fluid cooked and added to clearances, the new fluid will clean everything nice and move all little debris all over and causes further issues...

it's a gamble now
 
RustyDusty said:
OBD II became required in all US trucks and cars in '96. I have not run into a single domestic or asian truck that you can not get into the power train heading/trans with a standard obd II tool like the OTC Nemisys or even the cheapo Harbor Freight one for $150.
Click to expand...
Might want to try reading my Duramax with a cheapie scan tool, aint gonna happen. Might want to read here about obdII coverage. Save you the trouble, quoted form the above link.........Since the OBDII standard covers only emissions-related powertrain systems and sensors, there is a lot information you won't be able to see with a generic OBDII scan tool.......I have a generic scanner as well as the one form the above link & it will not read any powertrain codes on our 99 Exploder or the 02 Duramax. Not trying to argue with you, just trying to help.
 
What trans. is it, the 518? Does it slip in all gears? Fliud smell burned? I know in some models they have a pressure switch and governor pressure solenoid that is a common issue.
 
ironracer1 said:
Sorry to interject, but what would the max temp for fluid be? Thank You!
Click to expand...

There is no max really...

If you have a temp gauge you do not want to see more than 210, after that you severely shorten the fluids life and ability..

You want 175-f to 200-f, at 220-f you took a 80k interval and shortened it to probably around 40k, at 250-f you made it a 20k interval, at 300-f you made it a few thousand, anymore than that and you should have changed it before reading this...

The issues that cause some of these high temps are really common, getting stuck in the snow and continually trying to get out, stuck in mud, stuck in sand, speeds at 85 mph and more without a really good cooler, towing, stop and go traffic in the hot summer air and 4x4 adds a good amount of heat, racing use and finally sitting in park idling waiting for a long time with any variant of the 727 until i think 2005 or 06 when they finally fixed that issue.

.
 
Supershafts said:
There is no max really...

If you have a temp gauge you do not want to see more than 210, after that you severely shorten the fluids life and ability..

You want 175-f to 200-f, at 220-f you took a 80k interval and shortened it to probably around 40k, at 250-f you made it a 20k interval, at 300-f you made it a few thousand, anymore than that and you should have changed it before reading this...

The issues that cause some of these high temps are really common, getting stuck in the snow and continually trying to get out, stuck in mud, stuck in sand, speeds at 85 mph and more without a really good cooler, towing, stop and go traffic in the hot summer air and 4x4 addsa god amount of heat, racing use and finally sitting in park idling waiting for a long time with any variant of the 727 until i think 2005 or 06 when they finally fixed that issue.

.
Click to expand...
Pretty much word for word what my buddy that owns a trans shop goes by.
 
You can also install a tranny cooler with a fan on it that has a temp sensor on it.
 
Sorry to interrupt again, the reason i am asking is I just rebuilt a 340 and had someone build me a 727. I put 'em in, and my original rad sprung a leak, she got engine temps up to 230 as I got home and parked. It did not stay that way, just got there and let it cool off, I live in Fl, but the temp came down quick, as I saw it getting hot and brought her home. Any ideas? I am hoping I did not fry my trans.......still shifts, but have not drove as have not resolved rad issue....Thank You all!!!!!!!!!!! Running an older MP 2200 stall w/ 4.30 gears, has shift kit (B and M )should I put a tranny cooler and a tranny temp gauge in it? Eng has ported heads, 484 mp cam, 10.5 to 1 ..Nothing seems to be wrong, just a bit scared !!!!!
 
ironracer1 said:
Sorry to interrupt again, the reason i am asking is I just rebuilt a 340 and had someone build me a 727. I put 'em in, and my original rad sprung a leak, she got engine temps up to 230 as I got home and parked. It did not stay that way, just got there and let it cool off, I live in Fl, but the temp came down quick, as I saw it getting hot and brought her home. Any ideas? I am hoping I did not fry my trans.......still shifts, but have not drove as have not resolved rad issue....Thank You all!!!!!!!!!!! Running an older MP 2200 stall w/ 4.30 gears, has shift kit (B and M )should I put a tranny cooler and a tranny temp gauge in it? Eng has ported heads, 484 mp cam, 10.5 to 1 ..Nothing seems to be wrong, just a bit scared !!!!!
Click to expand...
For your setup, I'd pull/ditch the original rad for an Aluminum cross flow one. I'd also install a tranny cooler. If you race the car or do lots of stop and go with that car (and gear setup) I'd install a cooler with a fan on it.
Also it doesn't hurt to install a tranny temp gauge.
 
I am planing to do some drag, and a bit of street driving, I hate traffic, it is an A/C car, but I removed it, (fixing to get my tag n ins, YES!) and it's about to really hot in FL.. Took me 5 years to get this far. And I am just a carpenter, so I would rather spend a little more now than a lot more later. My other Mopars were 4 spds, so i have never had a good build w/ an auto. And I would not have w/out help from you great guys on this forum. What size cooler/ fan would you recommend? Thank You!
PS
1970duster
Can I borrow your cup-holder?
 
ironracer1 said:
I am planing to do some drag, and a bit of street driving, I hate traffic, it is an A/C car, but I removed it, (fixing to get my tag n ins, YES!) and it's about to really hot in FL.. Took me 5 years to get this far. And I am just a carpenter, so I would rather spend a little more now than a lot more later. My other Mopars were 4 spds, so i have never had a good build w/ an auto. And I would not have w/out help from you great guys on this forum. What size cooler/ fan would you recommend? Thank You!
PS
1970duster
Can I borrow your cup-holder?
Click to expand...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Fluid-Coolers-with-Fan/?keyword=transmission+coolers

For your setup, I'd use one with a fan that does AT LEAST 500 cfm (600 cfm min would be better for the super hot days) but that monster 1500 cfm would be over kill. This link will let you choose the one that best fit your budget.

PS
That cup holder is great aint it!
 
Thank You!!!!!!!!
I am gonna look in to Summit right now!
And maybe your cup holder
( Just kidding, after all, it is yours)
 
inkjunkie said:
Might want to try reading my Duramax with a cheapie scan tool, aint gonna happen. Might want to read here about obdII coverage. Save you the trouble, quoted form the above link.........Since the OBDII standard covers only emissions-related powertrain systems and sensors, there is a lot information you won't be able to see with a generic OBDII scan tool.......I have a generic scanner as well as the one form the above link & it will not read any powertrain codes on our 99 Exploder or the 02 Duramax. Not trying to argue with you, just trying to help.
Click to expand...


True. To an extent. Only P0xxx codes are required by EPA... I've never ever run into ANY vehicle, including Duramaxes, Cummins, or PS on my $150 Harbor Freight scan tool that I can't access the trans data. Granted the data is limited, but it's there. Maybe you have some extremely cheap scan tool I have no experience with. I'd assuse HF would be considered cheap. Especially my nice snap-on ran $3,000+.

Your truck is 100% OBDii compliant, it's required by law. There is absolutely no questioning that, unless it's a pre '97 diesel or pre '96 for gas.
 
inkjunkie said:
Find a place that has a good obdII scanner & make sure they let you see the results. Many times a trans malfunction will not trip the light but it will show up in the computers history.....Many trucks can not be read by a typical inexpensive scanner as they are non obdII compliant. When I get a chance I will check the software on mine to see if your truck is listed as one of the ones that needs it own software....
Click to expand...

When you turn the key on and off 3 times and leave it on stored codes flash in my odometer. Is there additional codes that are hidden?
 
ironracer1 said:
I am planing to do some drag, and a bit of street driving, I hate traffic, it is an A/C car, but I removed it, (fixing to get my tag n ins, YES!) and it's about to really hot in FL.. Took me 5 years to get this far. And I am just a carpenter, so I would rather spend a little more now than a lot more later. My other Mopars were 4 spds, so i have never had a good build w/ an auto. And I would not have w/out help from you great guys on this forum. What size cooler/ fan would you recommend? Thank You!
PS
1970duster
Can I borrow your cup-holder?
Click to expand...

Please start your own thread.
 
My neighbor drives a 97 Dodge work van. He has the same conditions. Reverse is always there but he waits a few seconds for drive at first go. Wont go into overdrive before its warmed up a bit. Trans filter serviced once, made no difference. Van still drives today no better or worse.

Several years ago, when the trans in our 93 Lebarron failed ,
I was told that Chrysler trans coolers had strainners in them.
Back flushing that strainner is a gamble.
Replacing the cooler is best route and recoomended with trans rebuild.
I dont know how much of this is correct or if its relevant to all models.
 
RedFish said:
My neighbor drives a 97 Dodge work van. He has the same conditions. Reverse is always there but he waits a few seconds for drive at first go. Wont go into overdrive before its warmed up a bit. Trans filter serviced once, made no difference. Van still drives today no better or worse.

Several years ago, when the trans in our 93 Lebarron failed ,
I was told that Chrysler trans coolers had strainners in them.
Back flushing that strainner is a gamble.
Replacing the cooler is best route and recoomended with trans rebuild.
I dont know how much of this is correct or if its relevant to all models.
Click to expand...

It works fine today but it did store a p1698 code.My conditions are a lot different than your neighbor. The only times mine acted up was after warming up when I let it run five to 10 minutes while I jumped in houses to check them out.I,m a plumbing supervisor.When I let it set a while to cool its good again.Checked fluid today hot and its a pint low but its pink and looks pretty clean on a paper towel. This is why I was wondering if old fluid loses viscosity. It is a hundred degrees here in Houston. Maybe i,m expecting too much.
 
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