Door lift assist for floor jack?

-

gzig5

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
3,819
Reaction score
5,897
Location
Mequon, WI
I'm at the point where I'm going to need to take the doors off and on occasionally and working by myself, it is a PITA. They really want to tip over when just balanced on top of the jack. I'm looking for ideas, pictures, or vivid descriptions of an assembly I can use with my floor or transmission jack that will reliably hold the door in position while I zip the hinge bolts in. Some level of fine adjustment might be desired. I've used a temporary bracket made of wood but it was sketchy and I'd prefer to weld something up and bolt to the jack table. I'm in the rough bodywork stage, fixing rust on the A-pillars, cowl, and fitting full quarters and roof skin. This is on an E-body but I imagine the A, B, and C bodies suffer as well.
 

While not for a floor jack, I just use an inexpensive lifting sling (Harbor Freight, Lowes, Menard's, etc.) and my engine hoist (cherry picker).
1683816080412.png

P.S.- I also install hoods/trunk lids this way.
 
Last edited:
E body doors are heavy!! I have 2 on the floor now and they don't like to be moved. : ) It was a two man lift getting them off. I don't own nor have I tried this tool but found it on Amazon. Might be worth a look.

511pW2F1j6L._AC_SX425_.jpg
 
E body doors are heavy!! I have 2 on the floor now and they don't like to be moved. : ) It was a two man lift getting them off. I don't own nor have I tried this tool but found it on Amazon. Might be worth a look.

View attachment 1716088659
I have this tool and it works great. Even on heavy pickup truck doors. Makes a 2-3 man job into a one person job. Worth every penny.

Mine came from Eastwood but same thing
 
Even with crutches, it should be done by 2 people. You only have so many eyes and hands. Doors are big and heavy. Here are some factory installation and adjustment tips.
 

Attachments

Even with crutches, it should be done by 2 people. You only have so many eyes and hands. Doors are big and heavy. Here are some factory installation and adjustment tips.
Probably but not every has an assistant.
 
E body doors are heavy!! I have 2 on the floor now and they don't like to be moved. : ) It was a two man lift getting them off. I don't own nor have I tried this tool but found it on Amazon. Might be worth a look.

View attachment 1716088659
We had one almost identical at the chevy dealer where I worked years ago. The doors on those older two door big cars were LONG and HEAVY. It worked very well.
 
Even with crutches, it should be done by 2 people. You only have so many eyes and hands. Doors are big and heavy. Here are some factory installation and adjustment tips.
You ain't just kiddin, brother! I've replaced door hinges in a mid 70 Cadillac Coupe De Ville. I think one of those doors wouldda killed somebody. lol
 
Even with crutches, it should be done by 2 people. You only have so many eyes and hands. Doors are big and heavy. Here are some factory installation and adjustment tips.
Thanks for the docs. Before I blew the car apart to fix the hidden wreck damage, I spent a lot of time trying to get the doors aligned properly. They are a booger to do by yourself. Was getting them close when I realized why the passenger side ran out of adjustment and the reconstruction began. The tool in the link above should be sufficient and I can buy or build it. I was worried about the paint on the lower edge of the door and a little bit of more creative googling found this one on the Garage Journal that supports on the flat part of the door and not the edge of the skin. Have a couple options now. Appreciate the ideas.
If I put it on the trans jack, I may be able to use the angle adjustments on that table, but I would want to tighten up the tolerances in the adjustments a bit. That may be overthinking it a bit too.

Picture270-1.jpg


Picture488-1.jpg


Picture489-1.jpg
 
Thanks for the docs. Before I blew the car apart to fix the hidden wreck damage, I spent a lot of time trying to get the doors aligned properly. They are a booger to do by yourself. Was getting them close when I realized why the passenger side ran out of adjustment and the reconstruction began. The tool in the link above should be sufficient and I can buy or build it. I was worried about the paint on the lower edge of the door and a little bit of more creative googling found this one on the Garage Journal that supports on the flat part of the door and not the edge of the skin. Have a couple options now. Appreciate the ideas.
If I put it on the trans jack, I may be able to use the angle adjustments on that table, but I would want to tighten up the tolerances in the adjustments a bit. That may be overthinking it a bit too.

View attachment 1716088982

View attachment 1716088983

View attachment 1716088984
Over thinking. Mine has very soft rubber where it contacts the door and it seems to work out just fine
 
As you can see on the Factory door removal procedure, they say to use a piece of carpet on the floor jack to support the door. You could also just tape the door edges and use a piece of heavy cardboard between the bottom of the door and the top of the rocker panel.
Also it is much easier to leave the hinges attached to the body, and then just attach the door to the mounted hinge.
A cherry picker with a strap is a good, safe idea as well.
 
As you can see on the Factory door removal procedure, they say to use a piece of carpet on the floor jack to support the door. You could also just tape the door edges and use a piece of heavy cardboard between the bottom of the door and the top of the rocker panel.
Also it is much easier to leave the hinges attached to the body, and then just attach the door to the mounted hinge.
A cherry picker with a strap is a good, safe idea as well.
If I'm trying to protect the paint on the door when using the sling, I just wrap the door in a moving blanket and wrap the strap around that. Cheap and effective (HF sometimes has coupons for free blankets...).
 
-
Back
Top Bottom