No Lift 360 Swap Tips/Suggestions

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You will need to move all of that stuff by the garage door off to the side to have room to work. Pull the car in just far enough to be able to move the hoist back to get the old motor out and clear. You may have to shuffle the car back and forth to get the old motor out of the way and then pick the new motor up and put it in. I wish I had that good of a work space when I was your age....lol. Gravel driveway was no fun trying to do what you're doing. :BangHead:
 
ddart cart said:
Very Helpful JD, thank you sir.
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You're welcome. We all had to start somewhere and learn as we go. I'm old, but not so old that I forgot the place in life that you're at. When you are a young car guy, you have all of the energy and desire in the world, but very little money.... and then you cycle thru life and finally have a little money to do stuff, but lack the desire!
 
One more thing! I just noticed on your hoist, that the thin metal straps going down at an angle from the upright, to the legs....are on the inside of the frame at the bottom end. Try to find some flat bar that is just a little thicker to replace those flimsy ones with....and bolt them on the outside of the legs instead of the inside. That should make the hoist more stable. Take one of the existing ones off and go to the scrapyard and look around. Maybe you can find some thicker flat metal to fab new ones with. No welding needed.....just a hacksaw and a drill.
 
I always make the swap with the transmission attached to the engine. Makes it much easier to get to all of the bolts and make sure everything is in the correct place.
 
My landlord is a piece of work, but he is letting me do this! That section of garage hand an inch of mud, and junk everywhere for the last 2 years, now it’s functional, and I solved his water problem. He has a lift in the main part. Gravel? I’d build a wood floor. Carpentry is one of my trades, so theres that lol. I definitely thought about those supports being on the inside versus outside, and prefer outside with much thicker metal.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I always make the swap with the transmission attached to the engine. Makes it much easier to get to all of the bolts and make sure everything is in the correct place.
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That makes total sense. The boinger hoist I have may disagree lol. I’m thinking beef it up, even though it’s a 2T. Ideally using a stronger unit is the call.
 
You could probably go to Home Depot and get a 10' stick of 3/4 EMT steel electrical conduit to make the braces out of. Beat some flats on the ends and drill the bolt holes. Loosen all the bolts up with no load on it and see if all 4 wheels will touch the floor again and then tighten the heck outta the bolts when you get the new braces made.
 
JDMopar said:
You could probably go to Home Depot and get a 10' stick of 3/4 EMT steel electrical conduit to make the braces out of. Beat some flats on the ends and drill the bolt holes. Loosen all the bolts up with no load on it and see if all 4 wheels will touch the floor again and then tighten the heck outta the bolts when you get the new braces made.
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Hell yeah. Something to that effect. The depot will have some kind of heavy metal I can cut up, drill out and use. I was thinking something to widen the rear wheel stance too.
 
It does need to be a little wider at the back. Look thru the square tube the back wheels are bolted to and see if it's a clear shot all the way thru. If it is, measure it and see if a 4 x 4 will slide thru. If the 4 x 4 is slightly too big, rip it down on a table saw so it fits tight enough to have to be knocked thru with a big hammer, then bolt the wheels back to the bottom of the 4 x 4 at a wider stance. The weight is going to be mostly on the front legs anyway, so a PT 4 x 4 should be plenty strong enough to widen it in a pinch. A foot wider on each side should be plenty, but I'd want the 4 x 4 to be one solid piece with a few small lag screws ran thru the steel to hold it still.
 
I thought about that. I’ll go to the depot in the morning and look around.
 
Bring a friend or two to help. Installing a motor is both much easier and safer with extra sets of hands.

The 318 is an easy pull. You’ll have it out in less than 2 hrs.


Putting the 360 in was pretty rough when I did it. Took a lot of messing around to get it to line up with the motor mounts and dowel pins. Would have been almost impossible without an extra set of hands, or at least much harder.
 
Something else I detest on those types hoists are the "ears" attached to the rear of the hoist arm where it hinges with the main frame at the rear. That's always a huge flex point. I'd cut those off and just drill a hole right through both sides of the main arm at the rear and hing it like that. I mean......they drilled through it at every adjustment hole.
 
Is this your hoist?

2 Ton Shop Crane Foldable Engine Motor Cherry Picker Hoist Lift – Tutcek

Looks similar and they have those straps bolted to the outside like JD said.

And those straps are super thin. Mine are around 1/4"
PXL_20250504_001917198.jpg
 
Here's mine. It is an absolute HOSS. It's not foldable. It will disassemble, although "not a lot". LOL If you look, mine is similar to yours in that it does have the ears on the rear of the main arm, but the similarities stop there. While all yours has are the ears, mine has basically more boom where the ears are.
IMG_20250503_204333082.jpg

I'd say the straps on mine are at least 3/16, maybe 1/4.

f57a3928-7eaa-4a1d-881c-793320b71daa~1.jpg


It's just a dam beast. I'd rather have a beast though.

af39b667-f048-4f70-8283-25d30128c4a8~1.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
Something else I detest on those types hoists are the "ears" attached to the rear of the hoist arm where it hinges with the main frame at the rear. That's always a huge flex point. I'd cut those off and just drill a hole right through both sides of the main arm at the rear and hing it like that. I mean......they drilled through it at every adjustment hole.
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The ears do flex plenty, there was lots of play there too. I since tightened the bolt to squeeze the ears in tight without binding the arm.
Yours may not look all shiny new, but solid is solid.
 
ddart cart said:
The ears do flex plenty, there was lots of play there too. I since tightened the bolt to squeeze the ears in tight without binding the arm.
Yours may not look all shiny new, but solid is solid.
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It's OOOOLLLLDDDDD. I got it in a trade with a friend. I traded him a good running Edelbrock 600 for his mud truck. Sadly, he drank himself to death a few years ago. I knew him a little more than 40 years. Always drank like a fish, but was just one of the funniest, best guys you could ever know and one hell of a parts guy. I plan on getting an air over hydraulic ram for it, as it's way easier to mash a button, than pump a deadgum jack. lol
 
Another way you might be able to "beef" the thing. You have a good drill motor? Buy a couple of studs, or hell, 4 of them, and about 8 or 10 bolts, at least 4 for each "leg." 3/8 X whatever and large OD "fender" washers as well as 3/8 USS washers. Put the 3/8USS on the bolt head and the fender under it, against the 2x4. Bolt the 2X4's along side the legs. One on each leg will likely help a lot. If you are not completely strapped for funds, go to Horrid Freight if you have one, and try and get some better casters for the front. Leave the old ones on, add the new ones to the added 2X4's.

Again, you will need plywood, etc, for it to roll on. I would darn sure spend some time to figure out where and how it is flexing, and add some sort of bracing to stop that.

Too bad you can't weld, you might want to try and "friend up" with a neighbor who can. A few bucks spent is cheap insurance.
 
Here is my set up, there is plenty of room underneath, and feels safe:
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The boss always keeps a close eye:
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For the hoist, I moved some of the thicker bolts to their appropriate locations, moved out the support straps, and got a piece of plywood under the wheel to compensate for the tweak. Seems way better, the 318 will let me know soon:
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remytherat said:
The 318 is an easy pull. You’ll have it out in less than 2 hrs.
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I spent 2 hrs on the distributer, and 2 on the starter, and they’re both still stuck. The rest went okay I think. 2 days total so far, but I’m close at least. Just mounts, and trans bolts left. The starter is unbolted, just stuck up in that area, I figure it will just sit there when I raise the 318. The distributer will have to stay until the engine is out, hopefully it’s not the one thing blocking the exit.
 
Did you completely remove the hold down clamp on the distributer? You should be able to bump it up out of the hole, or pry it up. It has an O ring on it, so that is probably sticking in the hole it goes in.
 
ddart cart said:
I spent 2 hrs on the distributer, and 2 on the starter, and they’re both still stuck. The rest went okay I think. 2 days total so far, but I’m close at least. Just mounts, and trans bolts left. The starter is unbolted, just stuck up in that area, I figure it will just sit there when I raise the 318. The distributer will have to stay until the engine is out, hopefully it’s not the one thing blocking the exit.
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Measure the inside dimension of that rear section of box steel, then go to Metals Depot & get them to send You a length 20"+ the length of that section that slips inside/thru', then mount those casters to it. It's no wonder that thing is a tipsy POS, put a couple holes thru' it for bolts/pins that will keep it from trying to slide side-to-side, and You're good. And You can easily 'undo' it if storage space is tight.
IMG_9920.jpeg.jpg
 
JDMopar said:
Did you completely remove the hold down clamp on the distributer? You should be able to bump it up out of the hole, or pry it up. It has an O ring on it, so that is probably sticking in the hole it goes in.
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Yeah clamp & bolt out. Won’t turn either. I was tapping the blade of a 5&1 between the base and block, but the angle was not great. I pb’d it up.
 
Killer6 said:
Measure the inside dimension of that rear section of box steel, then go to Metals Depot & get them to send You a length 20"+ the length of that section that slips inside/thru', then mount those casters to it. It's no wonder that thing is a tipsy POS, put a couple holes thru' it for bolts/pins that will keep it from trying to slide side-to-side, and You're good. And You can easily 'undo' it if storage space is tight.
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I like that idea. Some form of it may still happen.
 
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