RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
Can u get a single feed 600 to run with a double pumper or can convert inot a DP
Double pumper vs single feed
- Thread starter RyanUpdike70
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dgc333
Well-Known Member
Whether a carb is a single feed or dual feed has nothing to do with whether it has mechanical secondaries (double pumper) or vacuum secondaries.
Most of the single feed carbs have vacuum secondaries and you can't convert one to a double pumper without changing the throttle plate and main body. Those parts new would cost nearly as much as a new carb. If you were to get those parts used they would most likely come as part of an entire used carb.
Holley sells kits to convert a single feed to dual feed. It is new bowls with center hung floats and gaskets. Won't do anything for performance except if you are into road racing where the center hung floats are less effected by lateral g's.
Double Pumper carbs have a slight advantage over a vacuum secondary for max acceleration at the expense of being harder to tune, being less forgiving regarding what size to use and providing less fuel mileage. Unless you are very good at tuning, your car will run as well or better with the vacuum secondary carb.
If you have a Holley 600 vacuum secondary carb it would be my recommendation to leave it alone and if you need something else go shopping for a differnent carb.
Most of the single feed carbs have vacuum secondaries and you can't convert one to a double pumper without changing the throttle plate and main body. Those parts new would cost nearly as much as a new carb. If you were to get those parts used they would most likely come as part of an entire used carb.
Holley sells kits to convert a single feed to dual feed. It is new bowls with center hung floats and gaskets. Won't do anything for performance except if you are into road racing where the center hung floats are less effected by lateral g's.
Double Pumper carbs have a slight advantage over a vacuum secondary for max acceleration at the expense of being harder to tune, being less forgiving regarding what size to use and providing less fuel mileage. Unless you are very good at tuning, your car will run as well or better with the vacuum secondary carb.
If you have a Holley 600 vacuum secondary carb it would be my recommendation to leave it alone and if you need something else go shopping for a differnent carb.
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
Will The 600 holley have more acceration than my 800 quadrajet
dgc333
Well-Known Member
Likely not, but it's hard to know when you don't provide any info about the engine it's on or the rest of the car.
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
I have a 340 30 over 474 474lift cam stock j heade and intke with 2200 stall and shift kit 355 gears with a quadrajet
I'd say no less acceleration since your gear ratio isn't really letting everything lose to go wild. You will have excellent throttle response with the holley though. Some limited top end, but the intake track is also a restrictive one being stock.
Your over worried about small potatos.
Your over worried about small potatos.
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
is it going to spin the tires
Is that what your worried about? Shezzzzzz.
Spinning tires is a waste of time and it should be avoided since your wasteing time loseing to the other car while they get and make excellent use of there traction over your, "Cool, look at that smoke show."
Spinning tires, or the abilty to do so is a function of;
how strong your engine is
how well set up it is (Timed and tuned)
The amount of stall in the converter
the gear ratio in the rear
and how non gripping (Crappy) the tires are.
If you want to spin tires with a weak engine, install a 4;56 rear gear ratio in a suregrip and use a 3,000 stall conveter with 70 series tires.
You'll smok'em all day long with 50 HP.
Now, if you want your car to run well and hard...........
Spinning tires is a waste of time and it should be avoided since your wasteing time loseing to the other car while they get and make excellent use of there traction over your, "Cool, look at that smoke show."
Spinning tires, or the abilty to do so is a function of;
how strong your engine is
how well set up it is (Timed and tuned)
The amount of stall in the converter
the gear ratio in the rear
and how non gripping (Crappy) the tires are.
If you want to spin tires with a weak engine, install a 4;56 rear gear ratio in a suregrip and use a 3,000 stall conveter with 70 series tires.
You'll smok'em all day long with 50 HP.
Now, if you want your car to run well and hard...........
RyanUpdike70
Well-Known Member
i want to run well and hard and power enough to spin the tires sometimes
bobs340dartsport
Well-Known Member
if you have you set up right:
It will spin the tires when you want to, like while in the water when you are powerbraking it to clean off the tires.
And hook up when you need it, like when you hit the throttle once the last amber light glows!!
otherwise spinning the tires is a waste of tires, fuel and ET!
Bob
It will spin the tires when you want to, like while in the water when you are powerbraking it to clean off the tires.
And hook up when you need it, like when you hit the throttle once the last amber light glows!!
otherwise spinning the tires is a waste of tires, fuel and ET!
Bob
Amen to that. Spinning tires is fun. On demand is better. But not when running somebody of course.
Heres the trick. Tune tune tune.
The primarys need to be done first and best. The secondarys can wait a bit. There less critacl, but just as imporatnt in the end.
High power. Down low in the RPM band is where the most toque is made is best achieved with a high velocity of air and fuel. (Theres that tune thing again) Do not go to lean on it. Use as little pump shot as you can. Just enuff to cover the opening of the butterflies so it doesn't bog down and lose power.
The smaller primarys of a spreadbore are an advantage in this, but not a supreme item to covert. A square bore carb can do just as well. But also note, that going to big is not going to help. This is a build dependent thing on what becomes to large. It's also all in the combo of the rest of the car. Weight, stall of the converter, gear ratio, weight balance of the car. (Nose heavy or not.)
Either carb will deliver, and well. Your just going to have to decided on what carb you want to run and tune it up well.
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
A good running slant 6 will spin the tires. Well it'll spin the 195/75R14 dimes that came on it stock anyhow. You should be able to roast 'em pretty good with what you have now.
With the Q-Jet, make sure the carb body isn't warped from having the front bolts overtightened. A warped carb is impossible to make work right.
Also a 600 would be a bit small for your engine if you are after max power. Something in the 750-800 area would be better. A Holley 3310 will be dual feed and a good choice for you. Now if you meant double pumper, you don't want one on the street with an automatic. Especially not with you converter and rear end combo.
With the Q-Jet, make sure the carb body isn't warped from having the front bolts overtightened. A warped carb is impossible to make work right.
Also a 600 would be a bit small for your engine if you are after max power. Something in the 750-800 area would be better. A Holley 3310 will be dual feed and a good choice for you. Now if you meant double pumper, you don't want one on the street with an automatic. Especially not with you converter and rear end combo.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
I had no problem spinning the tires in my 68 Barracuda when it had the slant. Now with the 360 i have a problem not spinning the tires. If i want to do a burn out I normally do it in second gear and that was with a Holley 600 and now Holley 670.
Every winter i have a project for the car. This winter is to get rid of the 235/60-14 tires on the back and get some 15x8 Rally wheels and some meat.
Every winter i have a project for the car. This winter is to get rid of the 235/60-14 tires on the back and get some 15x8 Rally wheels and some meat.
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
FWIW I see some mis-information about these carbs.
A double pump has nothing to do with the secondaries being mechanical or vaccum, as you can get either mechanical or vaccum secondaries. It has to do with having dual accelerator pumps. Thought we should start with that first.
As far as a Carter or Eddy over a "double pump" for street use or an automatic car, that's personal preferance. Vaccum secondaries for auto cars with a lower stall is true, but you can run a double pump just fine on the street. I've done it for years.
A double pump has nothing to do with the secondaries being mechanical or vaccum, as you can get either mechanical or vaccum secondaries. It has to do with having dual accelerator pumps. Thought we should start with that first.
As far as a Carter or Eddy over a "double pump" for street use or an automatic car, that's personal preferance. Vaccum secondaries for auto cars with a lower stall is true, but you can run a double pump just fine on the street. I've done it for years.
Glow Worm
"Not Your Grandmaw's 318"
Are you absolutely sure about that?
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
mullinax95
Well-Known Member
Get you a Hurst line lock and the problem will be solved. Cost around $120 with the line kit. You might know but a line lock (roll control) locks the front brakes only so the rear tires are free to spin while you nail it.
dgc333
Well-Known Member
I have never seen a vacuum secondary carb with an accelerator pump on the secondaries, there is no need for it.
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
Hahahahahahahahahaha
From Jegs' website.
# 510-0-80529-1 750 cfm 4150 HP CarburetorGasoline
# Quick-change vacuum secondaries (3 vacuum ports)
# Dual 30cc accelerator pumps
# Spun-in straight leg boosters
More Details
Installation Instructions
$669.99
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_743645_-1_10271
There's the link. If you've never seen one, you haven't seen much then.
I know everybody has their opinions on carbs, I just hate seeing "facts" that people write full of falsities.
A
Ace
Guest
Double "pump"er. I believe (not trying to state any facts here, just anecdotal experience) that is where most of the extra fuel goes when these carbs are street driven - through the accelerator pumps. My Duster only gets around 15mpg driven conservatively. Pretty horrible for a SB A-body.
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
\Hahahahahahahahahaha
From Jegs' website.
# 510-0-80529-1 750 cfm 4150 HP CarburetorGasoline
# Quick-change vacuum secondaries (3 vacuum ports)
# Dual 30cc accelerator pumps
# Spun-in straight leg boosters
More Details
Installation Instructions
$669.99
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_743645_-1_10271
There's the link. If you've never seen one, you haven't seen much then.
I know everybody has their opinions on carbs, I just hate seeing "facts" that people write full of falsities.
Yea well that's the first double pumper vacuum secondary I've ever seen also, so in the future we should all just let quarterhorse answer all the questions then there won't be any mistakes.
Terry
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
Or call a carb company, or do a little research rather than just throw out what you "think" is correct and really have little to no experience with it.
I understand we're trying to help people, but this is why I just don't post on this website very much. It's a lot of guys/gals new to hot rodding wanting to look important and just spitting out things that aren't correct. I just wish people would do a little more reading before they start spouting off things as fact, and put somebody in a worse position than where they started.
A simple carb change wouldn't hurt a motor, but I'd hate to give the advise that would, or worse, hurt somebody with wrong chassis advise for a race.
Take it however you'd like, I'm not trying to be a prick, but if you really don't know the answer, just don't say anything. I don't have all the answers, so I don't comment on everything.
I try to keep an open mind, and I don't surf this site a whole lot for my own reasons now. This thread, and the last thread I posted in were full of false "facts" and it's funny how some people just don't wish to accept they were wrong, or just do a little research on their own, or just ask the question rather than pretending to know.
If what I put up isn't appreciated, please delete it, and carry on. Heaven forbid you take me at my word, like some of you are expecting others to do.
I understand we're trying to help people, but this is why I just don't post on this website very much. It's a lot of guys/gals new to hot rodding wanting to look important and just spitting out things that aren't correct. I just wish people would do a little more reading before they start spouting off things as fact, and put somebody in a worse position than where they started.
A simple carb change wouldn't hurt a motor, but I'd hate to give the advise that would, or worse, hurt somebody with wrong chassis advise for a race.
Take it however you'd like, I'm not trying to be a prick, but if you really don't know the answer, just don't say anything. I don't have all the answers, so I don't comment on everything.
I try to keep an open mind, and I don't surf this site a whole lot for my own reasons now. This thread, and the last thread I posted in were full of false "facts" and it's funny how some people just don't wish to accept they were wrong, or just do a little research on their own, or just ask the question rather than pretending to know.
If what I put up isn't appreciated, please delete it, and carry on. Heaven forbid you take me at my word, like some of you are expecting others to do.
QuarterHorse
Well-Known Member
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
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