drag racing 101

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carkindaguy

carkindaguy

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hi, i am new to the drag racing world and i need some advise. this is going to sound pretty stupid to most but i need to know. i need to get a good stall converter for my duster. my question is how do they work/ how do you use them? i dont have a trans brake or line lock. i will be using foot brake only. after a burnout when ya pull up, get both yellows, and go to hold the revs up, with say a 3500 stall converter do you hold the rpms at 3500 or just below at like 3400?? i have not raced any races yet except for once last year with a stock motor and converter. my motor i just rebuilt and is now in the 450-500hp and torque range. i just dont want to look like an idiot at the starting line, because there is usually a lot of people watching. i would be very grateful for any advise i could get.:prayer:
 
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=158570

Kinda good thread right along the lines of what you were asking. BTW, my car has a 2500-2800 converter and with 500 HP it pulls a 1.66. I run up to about 1500 cause I don't want to heat up the tranny fluid. With that power and a decent rear gear you should do OK with the 3500. Don't worry about the crowd in the stands. You drive your own car. Remember to leave when the last yeller light comes on.

And have fun!

Here is a nice write up I just saw at the Mo-Kan track website. How do they stay open in the winter when our track shut down??

http://www.mokandragway.com/drag_101/
 
airwoofer said:
Don't worry about the crowd in the stands. You drive your own car. Remember to leave when the last yeller light comes on.
And have fun!
Click to expand...



X2 You won't even notice the people when you roll into the staging area. You'll be "in the zone". Also, check your car's vitals, i.e. Oil pressure, Water & Trans Temps, etc before letting her go. You'll need to experiment launching at different RPMs. Trial and error (and traction) will dictate the right number. And like airwoofer said, leave on the last yellow.

And have a blast! Let us know how it goes.

Pat
 
airwoofer said:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=158570

Kinda good thread right along the lines of what you were asking. BTW, my car has a 2500-2800 converter and with 500 HP it pulls a 1.66. I run up to about 1500 cause I don't want to heat up the tranny fluid. With that power and a decent rear gear you should do OK with the 3500. Don't worry about the crowd in the stands. You drive your own car. Remember to leave when the last yeller light comes on.

And have fun!
Click to expand...

But if you had a bigger stall that pretty nasty cuda would be REAL NASTY! Just my opinion from a guy that has been out run by your car lol
 
I need a tranny more than a converter as the 2-3 shift has a big gap between where the thing acts like it hits neutral. Didn't do that with the 340. That converter works great on the street.

That nasty fish goes into Keith Morrell's shop this weekend for quarters. Hope to get it back with them in primer for opening track day, weather permitting. See on their site where they redid the burnout box? About time. Notice I didn't tell him to check the emerg brake? That's cause I have done it also cause I trailer the car with it engaged.

I'm looking for a full cage car to play with while the fish gets a makeover and becomes a street car. Hopefully a Demon or maybe a Duster. Missed the 72 Demon in the classifieds as the guy traded it for a really pretty hemi fish. There's some nice cars out there and the prices are coming down too. Sucky economy gooder for guys with cash.
 
As mentioned, drive your own race and experiment with rpm's.

Also, light the pre-stage, then get your r's set and check anything you need to. Keep an eye on the other car so that you stage at about the same time. Then, creep slowly into the stage beam. By doing everything with just the pre-stage lit, you'll be ready when the tree is activated.
 
yeah, to light up both staging lights is a rookie mistake called "double bulbing" which is bad form and a good way to not make friends. I had no idea till I was clue'd in here. The second light sets the tree in motion. When that blinking light changes be ready cause the tree will be starting soon.

Remember to roll up your windows.
Remember to have your steering wheel straight.
Make damn sure that you are in the right gear and NOT reverse if you had to back up cause you went through the staging lights.
At the end of the track be sure you know where the other guy is and that you don't get in a wreck turning off the track into him.
The people working the staging line and cleaning off the burnout box and line are your friends - treat them nicely.
Be nice to Ferd and Chebby drivers as they know not their erroronious ways. Besides there aren't that many Mopars to run against.
Get a good tire pressure gage cause you will probably need to drop the air. Find out where the track air is if you need to drive home afterwards.

And most of all, make friends and have fun.
 
The very last thing your worried about is what people say or think. Stop the worry and go enjoy yourself.
 
Just remember that most converters actually stall less than what they are numbered.This depends on how much horse power you will be putting in front of it.
Example,, Low HP car lets say 200 rear wheel.A 3500 converter may be all in at 25/2700.
400 rear wheel HP closer to 31/3200. Most are advertised as what they will "Flash" to.
Meaning from idle (7/800 rpm) to a full throttle,the rpm's will jump to close to that 3500 mark.The more HP the harder and higher it will be to that number.
Example,, The first time racer has a basicly stock car but wants to buy a converter for a better starting line take off. He buys a 3000 rpm converter thinking that it will stall at that number but finds it's all in at 22/2300 ?? Meaning when he brake races it thats when it will want to move the car. So I guess what I am trying to say is if you want a converter to give you close to 3500 you may need to buy a 4000 stall.
I know ,, clear as a muddy river.. 1 more example, I have a low hp car,it has a 5000 stall converter.(Footbrake)I run it up to 34/3500 in the lites.Any more the car starts to push(the front tires start to slide thru the lites.(Trans brake time)Full throttle it flashes to about 45/4600. All cars are different,Power,Weight,Tires.etc so you have many variables to deal with. All this will have more meaning as you have more seat time at your track making passes.Fill free to make mistakes(I know I do) and ask what to do. The first dozen times I went to the track I would ask the people in the staging lanes "Hey I never did this before,,Got any sugestions ??" Most will be happy to help.
This is just a thought, I'm sure more will chime in with what works for them.Good luck and have fun!!
 
Heres what I do.... roll into the water box, I usally dont come to a full stop, I just kill my momentum and stab the gas to spin the tires then roll to a dry spot in front of the water. if you try to do the burnout in the water it will take forever... also if you dont have slicks make sure you drive around the water and reverse up to the space before the water to do your burnout or dry hop...

I usally finish my burnout in 2nd... make sure to try to release the line lock or break under full power and burn away from the box... I then come to a complete stop and shift into N... this gives me a chance to clear the motor and then pull back into first. If you dont go into N and you get flustered one day you could stage while still in 2nd..

Roll slowly to the beams, if you light the pre stage while rolling to fast you could roll right into the stage by mistake. Once the pre is on get on the brake good and bring up your revs. Its better to bring the converter up just enough of clear the idle than climb right up to the converter limit. In our race truck with a 5500 stall I get up to 2500... in my Dart with a 3000 I get up to 1500... Once your rpms are set hold your right foot steady and release the brake ever so slightly until you creep into the stage light. stab the brake and concentrate on that last yellow. dont anticipate the light, wait for it to go on and giver!

I think its important to do EVERYTHING exactly the same from burnout thru the entire run. get a routine that your comfortable with and mimick it every pass. take your time, practice makes perfect! Good luck!
 
Also the gear ratio and tire size have a big effect on your convertor plus the weight of your car, I had a 3400lb car with 4.88 gears, 28'' tall slicks with a 4500 convertor and it worked best at about 1800 but that also depends on the track, trees are different from track to track
 
No problem! When you get some TT's under your belt and want to do some bracket racing let me know and I'll tell you everything I know... shouldn't take long.

Just remember to take your time and do YOUR own thing. The track staff will quickly realize your new and SHOULD give you lots of time. Like stated before the person running the lanes and water box are your freinds.

Also don't try to run laps like your at Daytona. #1 thing that will piss everyone off is if your budding in line in the lanes or trying to weasel your way to the head of the lanes... import guys are the worst for this. Wait your turn and take it easy.

Have fun and DON'T BREAK ANYTHING!
 
Also, in the event something does let loose mechanically, pull over to the wall and stop as quickly as you safely can. The clean-up crew and your fellow racers will be very appreciative. Nothing worse that waiting for the track to be cleaned up after someone lays oil/water/fluids down the entire length of the track.

:wack:
 
Divenut said:
Also, in the event something does let loose mechanically, pull over to the wall and stop as quickly as you safely can. The clean-up crew and your fellow racers will be very appreciative. Nothing worse that waiting for the track to be cleaned up after someone lays oil/water/fluids down the entire length of the track.

:wack:
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That's a great and courteous thing to do! Oiling down the track is not appreciated...

Also be aware;no antifreeze in the rad! If antifreeze get's on the track it's worse than oil.
 
(I usally finish my burnout in 2nd... make sure to try to release the line lock or break under full power and burn away from the box... I then come to a complete stop and shift into N... this gives me a chance to clear the motor and then pull back into first. If you dont go into N and you get flustered one day you could stage while still in 2nd..)

If using a Torqueflite do not do 1st geara burnouts it will cause the sprag to fail resulting in the drum exploding and removing your foot.
I start in 2nd hit it very hard right up to about 5500 then shift to 3rd and as it starts grabbing let it roll out and ease off the throttle. Clean out the engine in Neutral drop into 1st and roll up to stage.
 
1 fst Dart said:
(I usally finish my burnout in 2nd... make sure to try to release the line lock or break under full power and burn away from the box... I then come to a complete stop and shift into N... this gives me a chance to clear the motor and then pull back into first. If you dont go into N and you get flustered one day you could stage while still in 2nd..)

If using a Torqueflite do not do 1st geara burnouts it will cause the sprag to fail resulting in the drum exploding and removing your foot.
I start in 2nd hit it very hard right up to about 5500 then shift to 3rd and as it starts grabbing let it roll out and ease off the throttle. Clean out the engine in Neutral drop into 1st and roll up to stage.
Click to expand...


Close, but not quite. Letting off while doing a burnout in first has the chance to damage the sprague when using a reverse pattern manual valve body w/o low band apply. Starting off isnt a big deal, you just can't let off and you should finish in 2nd or 3rd. I try not to roll the tires much in the water, and don;t ever burn out IN the water. Especially with treaded tires. Because water can get picked up and flung up into the 1/4s, and then drips on or just in front of the tires while you're staging. Pull out, then burn out, and finish by letting off the break and powering out.

Also - Tune out. You are racing the tree every time. Don't worry about the car you're racing until you let off. Generally, my first run of any ay is a "get the routine back" run and the ET doesnt matter.
 
I've been doing my burnout like that for 15 years and never had an issue... quick 1st to 6000 then right to 2nd and finish in 2nd or sometimes 3rd if there's a crowd in the stands.

I've heard the same story about starting in 1st but I think moper is correct... don't let off in first.... also depends on the type of sprague you have.

It doesn't matter what I do, the point is you want to have a routine and stick too it.
 
the point is that you do not want to come out of the water burnout in first and shock the trans went the tires catch of dry pavement....that is what kills the spraq.....as said above you can start in 1st and shift to 2nd...

as far as front drums exploding, that is a 727 issue ...not a 904 due to their smaller size...
 
At our track they let you spin the tires in the water to get 'em wet (a little spin and the guy working the box has a little hand motion to tell you to spin if that is what you do) and then you pull out of the water to burnout on dry (rubber covered) pavement. I sometimes use the little wet spin to complete my turn onto the lane.

Agree about getting water up in the quarters. Funny story... First time I had the stroker installed and fired up was TnT day at the track and since I live close I can hear them running there. I finally got the engine running and drove the car down my backyard grass airstrip to see how it did with the engine. Did a little spin on the grass and then loaded it up on the trailer and took it to the track. On my first pass all the debris that was thrown up into my rotten quarter panels came out. Kinda pissed off the starting line guy who had to sweep it up. Guess they really didn't mind though as the car had open headers, I did a huge burnout (crowd pleaser), and the car went 1 1/4 second faster (1/8th) than the last time they saw it.

Yeah, a stroker is that much better than a worn out 340. Maybe 200 HP better.

The 340 was good to bust my racing cherry with and learn how to get down the track. Luckily the guy who used to own the fish had it running really straight. For the OP - I was scared sh*tless about screwing up and getting into the wall my first day with the car. I had already figured out how to do burnouts with the linelock on my street and my car seems to want to fishtail after I let off the line lock and stand on it. Made 5 passes the first day and the goal was to have fun and not get in trouble or hit the wall. Was a successful day. Another story about first times - carried a friend from the track in the car (before the stroker which is too fast for carrying a passenger) who had his newly built car out for the first time - hadn't made a pass in over 20 yrs. He was so nervous he was shaking all over and good thing his car wouldn't get out of 1st.

So enjoy, be careful, and it's normal to be nervous. Just don't let the crowd influence your thinking. Same for the other guy. If he takes his sweet time getting the 2nd bulb lit don't worry, just focus on your side of the tree. Another tip I learned when I was on the line and it started sprinkling - they shut down racing and instead of backing up I just drove slowly down the track. I hit the throttle a couple times (sprinkle, not rain) and was amazed at how the tires would just spin. Rain is a definate no-go so respect it.
 
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